The Stupid Axle Questions Thread

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TylerZ281500

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wait what? 10 bolt is a rear axle, 8.25 is front, id ditch the 10 bolt before the front, upgrade to a 14 bolt, and 4l80e, you can use the ford one i believe richard does @burbalade. i personally would never do leafs again but everyones heard my rant on that, coils are better.
 

GMC Burbalade

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The Super Duty axles are a pain. Balljoints mean the knuckle needs to be machined in order to run crossover steering. The 37.5" spring perch width means the axle doesn't work with bolt on kits. The metric lug pattern means you need adapters or a 10.5 Sterling rear end from a Super Duty. Unit bearings aren't serviceable.

If you find 95-97 Ford Dana 60 knuckles like I did, you can convert to 8x6.5 and get rid of the unit bearings. You'll also need TTB Dana 50 spindles and hubs, and Dana 60 stub shafts and rotors. Lockouts all interchange between them.

But that still leaves the issue of the spring perch width. I picked up my front axle for $300, you can sometimes find them even cheaper.
 

BIGFOOTDUDE1

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U DONT HAVE TOO PULL COVER OFF. JUST CRAWL UNDER TRUCK AND SPIN TIRE 1 REVOLUTION...COUNT HOW MANY TIMES DRIVE SAFT TURNS. JUST APPROX. BUT WORKS 3 1/2 TURNS = 3:50 TO 1 OVER 4 TURNS = 4:11 TO 1 ETC.. ETC
















=
 

JTWard

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OK, I'm new here, but this is my stupid question. I have a 1990 1500 Silverado I've restored over the last 3 years. Body off, New everything. Problem is the truck won't stop ! we have replaced everything disc's calipers stainless braded brake lines, in the back all new drum brakes parts, New MC, bleed the entire system 5 times.

Still got a soft or mushy pedal, it's like stepping into fresh dug up soil, your foot goes down and down and down. Take's forever to come to a stop. Sometimes if I'm not on my game I don't stop till I part way into the cross road and I have to back up. The owner of the shop and I am mystified. it feels line air in the line but we've bleed damn near a gallon of brake fluid through the system. I was down talking to him this morning and the only idea we have is swap out the drums out back for a set of disc brakes back there. Need advice badly. We're out of ideas. Help !
 

Wagonbacker9

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still on the stock hard-lines? If so that's next.

You may want to jump into a rear disk swap and an NBS master.
 

blazin8556

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Does the cv axle hold the wheel hub together on the front? I don't think it does. The nut just holds the end in right? It's been a minute.
 

Keepinitoldskool

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OK, I'm new here, but this is my stupid question. I have a 1990 1500 Silverado I've restored over the last 3 years. Body off, New everything. Problem is the truck won't stop ! we have replaced everything disc's calipers stainless braded brake lines, in the back all new drum brakes parts, New MC, bleed the entire system 5 times.

Still got a soft or mushy pedal, it's like stepping into fresh dug up soil, your foot goes down and down and down. Take's forever to come to a stop. Sometimes if I'm not on my game I don't stop till I part way into the cross road and I have to back up. The owner of the shop and I am mystified. it feels line air in the line but we've bleed damn near a gallon of brake fluid through the system. I was down talking to him this morning and the only idea we have is swap out the drums out back for a set of disc brakes back there. Need advice badly. We're out of ideas. Help !
You need to cycle the abs pump to remove air from it there. Or just remove it all together, I did and it made the biggest difference yet. Just look up RWAL delete.
 

JTWard

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still on the stock hard-lines? If so that's next.

You may want to jump into a rear disk swap and an NBS master.

Thank you, I tried to ask the tech guy at Summit before he hung up on me is that we've bleed the brakes 5 times now. Used about 3/4 to 1 gallon of dot-3-4 brake fluid and still the truck won't stop. and if it won't stop empty, what heck am I gonna do with a truck that you don't dare put a load in the bed. So you feel safe that I'm going to need disc in the back sooner or later right ?
 
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