The Body Lift Thread

[tylers88]

the reason for no kit for the diesel is they will get too hot they can barely stay cool in stock form, the radiator out of position will cause air flow issues and the 6.5 sustained at 210 or higher cracks the block and heads or if you are lucky just blows the head gaskets

body lift with a pair of electric fans and you will probably be better off than stock

 

[JAW's]

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3 in body, T-bar crank , 2 in blocks in rear, 315/75/16,16x8 with 4.5 bs

Just ordered my BL today and I already have 2"blocks and a crank on my 305/70s... I want this stance I absolutely love it. When its time for new tires I hope I can get 315s to fit

also, I read the entire thread and someone said you do not have to pull the carpet, Is this correct and is it easier?

 

[am92]

Yeah, to "adjust" the trans shifter cable you can look under the drivers seat from under the truck and you'll see a rubber grommet with the cable coming through. Pull the grommet out and pull on the cable until you see the plastic clip on it. Break the clip off and reinstall grommett. Done! Much easier than pulling the seat and carpet

 

[JAW's]

all you have to do is break the clip... there is no other adjustment needed?

 

[am92]

all you have to do is break the clip... there is no other adjustment needed?

Correct, there's enough slack in it once you break the clip off for it to work right after lifting
EDIT: idk which kit you bought, but these instructions from Zone are pretty good and are the same as any other kit. http://4x4media.info/instructions/zon/C9356_C9357.pdf Pg. 8 is where the trans cable stuff is

 

[JAW's]

I bought the summit kit but thanks for the instructions

 

[dirtridinz71]

First off I just read this whole thread and there is some great info. Your trucks look great and its really gotten me over the hump on weather or not to purchase a bl. My question is do you regret anything about The bl. Some of you have had them for a while any issues? Also a lot of ppl have said it took between 6-8 hours I'm curious as to why? Ive had all my cab mounts out to replace the cab mounts and that only took about 2 hours and that was to weld in new brackets.

Only big issue I have had/seen from the body lifts is if rust is an issue and your floor gets soft the bodylift puck will shove through. Seen in few times on reg cabs (rear passenger corner, mostly) havent seen it happen yet on an ext cab. Best solution is to put a larger plate on top of puck.
Alot of other things that take time when doing body lift. Bumpers, fuel filler ext, fan shroud, steering, trans linkage/cable, e-brake cable, etc. Atleast now you wont have to worry about breaking off any body bolts.

 

[outalne94z71]

body lift with a pair of electric fans and you will probably be better off than stock

you would think so, but there was a lengthy discussion on dieselplace on running electric fans and nobody had any success, the 97+ ho water pump with the 20" duramax 9 blade fan or the factory 9 blade steel unit is the best way to cool a 6.5

 

[outalne94z71]

Only big issue I have had/seen from the body lifts is if rust is an issue and your floor gets soft the bodylift puck will shove through. Seen in few times on reg cabs (rear passenger corner, mostly) havent seen it happen yet on an ext cab. Best solution is to put a larger plate on top of puck.

my 94 club cab had them punch through and the floor was not rusty, its a leverage issue with those pucks being a smaller diameter than the factory body bushings, the adding of larger diameter plates like you mention will solve that issue

 

[llmacgregor]

Pretty happy with my summit 3 inch kit so far! (Larger plates added on top of cab spacers) I highly reccomend it, especially if you wheel.

I do have a 4 inch suspension lift also, 35's don't rub.

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