Well, mine is. I don't see any reason why that one wouldn't be. Don't use the lift blocks that come with the kit tho... axle wrap is a b*tch. Either get replacement leafs or do a shackle flip with an AAL of some sort.
Superlift or Tuff Country 6 inch 8 lug lift ( Sticky need your help!!)
- Thread starter taco ed
- Start date
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Ok Zig's it is looking like the Superlift 5-7 incher w/ a reverse shackle from ORD and an AAL and the real lift TD re locators- I think I will be right at $2200 +/- plus labor. What is your PC true lift once you had it on w/o cranking- I def want a full 6 inches IF I can get that- I found the Full Throttle 6.5 but you can use the Real lift TDR with that kit according to the rep I spoke w/ via email today.. total bummer since I was going to but that 6.5 kit. Any other ideas- thought s etc.. Anyone else want to chime in?
Funny how I just logged in and checked this right after you posted...
Anyways, from what I understand, the Superlift 5"-7" is just a ~5" drop that you can crank to the 7" mark whereas my Pro Comp, and I imagine that the K2500 version would be the same, is a complete 6" drop that I have cranked to ~7" right now since my 5.5" SkyJacker springs still haven't settled yet and my angles still look fine.... at least better than they were when my truck was stock with just a crank and 285's. And I don't see why you couldn't use the Realift's with the 6.5" Full Throttle... plenty of folks have used them with the 6.5" Cepek back when those were still made. Granted, I am talking about 1/2 ton stuff here but there shouldn't be really any differences with how much lift you get out of certain kits.... just with how they bolt up if that makes sense. I've even scene somebody with a 3/4 ton NBS on one of the other forums (maybe over on GMFS) that runs the Realift's with an 8" Fabtech.
Edit: The Realift's with a 6.5" kit will require modifications to the transmission crossmember though... They WILL NOT be a direct bolt on. I can't say this for sure about Pro Comp's tho... I started a thread the other day looking for answers but couldn't get anything concrete so I'm going to get some Realift's at some point and experiment.
Anyways, from what I understand, the Superlift 5"-7" is just a ~5" drop that you can crank to the 7" mark whereas my Pro Comp, and I imagine that the K2500 version would be the same, is a complete 6" drop that I have cranked to ~7" right now since my 5.5" SkyJacker springs still haven't settled yet and my angles still look fine.... at least better than they were when my truck was stock with just a crank and 285's. And I don't see why you couldn't use the Realift's with the 6.5" Full Throttle... plenty of folks have used them with the 6.5" Cepek back when those were still made. Granted, I am talking about 1/2 ton stuff here but there shouldn't be really any differences with how much lift you get out of certain kits.... just with how they bolt up if that makes sense. I've even scene somebody with a 3/4 ton NBS on one of the other forums (maybe over on GMFS) that runs the Realift's with an 8" Fabtech.
Edit: The Realift's with a 6.5" kit will require modifications to the transmission crossmember though... They WILL NOT be a direct bolt on. I can't say this for sure about Pro Comp's tho... I started a thread the other day looking for answers but couldn't get anything concrete so I'm going to get some Realift's at some point and experiment.
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I may go PC then I had their 4 inch lift on my 77 CJ 5 back in the day and it was fine (but thats all leaf springs ) and I love them I hate IFS but its what I have so I will deal w/ it. did the PC truly drop everything 6? If your cranked to 7 what angle do you have now? and were u clearing 35 easy at 6? I want to run 36 inch Ground Hawgs on 16.5 x 8 rims maybe 17x 8 any issues as of now w/ the PC?
If I could do it over again, I would've just ditched the IFS and done an SAS but that's just me.
But yes... everything is truly dropped 6". The only reason I'm cranked at all is to level it with the rear... I'm getting some longer shackles here soon to drop the rear some then I'll take the crank back down to 6". Fresh out of the box, installed, and everything set at 6", all of my angles were as good as they could be.... CV's were completely flat, etc. Like I said earlier, even with it cranked a little bit now, my angles are still better than they were when my truck was stock and cranked. Also, it clears 35's just fine with 17x9's with a 4.5" backspacing. I could clear 37's without any problems with the way it sits now though (yes, I've actually tried it with a buddy's 37" KM2's) but 35's will still clear just fine when I take the crank back down to 6".
I've had my Pro Comp for 5 years now and nothing has gone wrong with the kit itself. I did however rebuild my front end while I was in the process of installing it though (i.e. new bushings, ball joints, hubs/unit bearings, pitman/idler arms, blah blah) and all of that stuff is still good. The only thing I've had to touch on my front end after the kit was installed has been my CV's because my boots had started to rip and they were slinging grease everywhere but I reckon that can be expected from 20 year old CV's. I just replaced the whole CV shaft when the boots failed and haven't had to touch a thing since. Just be sure to keep the greasable stuff greased up periodically and you should be good to go.
IMHO though, go with 17x8's over the 16.5x8's. You'll be happy that you did if you ever choose to get a tire other than Ground Hawgs or Super Swampers.
Also, if it sounds like I'm trying to suck Pro Comp's d*ck here then that certainly isn't the case.... I'm just giving my experience with what I have.
Cheers and good luck friend.
Zach
Edit: Just for fun, here's a couple of trucks with 6" Pro Comp's and 37's.
37" Baja Claws on NBS (or NNBS?) stockers:
37" MTZ's on Moto Metal 17x9's 4.5" backspacing:
And a couple of mine just for reference without any crank, and 315x70x17's (35x12.50's) with 17x9's 4.5" backspacing:
But yes... everything is truly dropped 6". The only reason I'm cranked at all is to level it with the rear... I'm getting some longer shackles here soon to drop the rear some then I'll take the crank back down to 6". Fresh out of the box, installed, and everything set at 6", all of my angles were as good as they could be.... CV's were completely flat, etc. Like I said earlier, even with it cranked a little bit now, my angles are still better than they were when my truck was stock and cranked. Also, it clears 35's just fine with 17x9's with a 4.5" backspacing. I could clear 37's without any problems with the way it sits now though (yes, I've actually tried it with a buddy's 37" KM2's) but 35's will still clear just fine when I take the crank back down to 6".
I've had my Pro Comp for 5 years now and nothing has gone wrong with the kit itself. I did however rebuild my front end while I was in the process of installing it though (i.e. new bushings, ball joints, hubs/unit bearings, pitman/idler arms, blah blah) and all of that stuff is still good. The only thing I've had to touch on my front end after the kit was installed has been my CV's because my boots had started to rip and they were slinging grease everywhere but I reckon that can be expected from 20 year old CV's. I just replaced the whole CV shaft when the boots failed and haven't had to touch a thing since. Just be sure to keep the greasable stuff greased up periodically and you should be good to go.
IMHO though, go with 17x8's over the 16.5x8's. You'll be happy that you did if you ever choose to get a tire other than Ground Hawgs or Super Swampers.
Also, if it sounds like I'm trying to suck Pro Comp's d*ck here then that certainly isn't the case.... I'm just giving my experience with what I have.
Cheers and good luck friend.
Zach
Edit: Just for fun, here's a couple of trucks with 6" Pro Comp's and 37's.
37" Baja Claws on NBS (or NNBS?) stockers:
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37" MTZ's on Moto Metal 17x9's 4.5" backspacing:
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You must be registered for see images attach
And a couple of mine just for reference without any crank, and 315x70x17's (35x12.50's) with 17x9's 4.5" backspacing:
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
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ZIGS!!Awesome!! brother - I like the look of them all I hate the I have crap hanging down low look.. Pretty sure I will be doing your suggestion PC 6 inch lift ORD spring rev and AAL w/ the TL TB's.. Getting it done ASAP -- like as soon as the stuff gets here - plan to order today. I dont off road hard w/ this truck like I did my CJ 5 so I wont be beating it up - some off road hunting trails a few Texas mud holes and open pasture driving etc. Any idea on 15 inch rims.. I love all the old school stuff and ran 15 inchers on my Jeep w/ 33 inch Ground Hawgs. I would like to do 36 inch GH's on this ride they make/made a radial tire now - BTW You gave great honest feed back thats what I was looking for not {ive heard or my buddy} I wanted honest 1st had user input thanks and you didnt sound like you were on the PC dick phone. I was sold on SL until you cuimed in and I will end up getting a full 6 inch drop - I just wish that the full throttle rig would work w/ the Real lift TBR's I like that they are 6.4 true drop- I am still going to chat w/ ORD about the PC and TC lifts and see from that point - I dont want to widen my front track so it has to be a drop and not a Knuckle drop. You all have a good New years eve dont drink and drive !! once I get this done I will post some pictures if I can figure out how to do that
I don't know about 15" wheels... anything I've ever had in the 15" range has been steel for offroad stuff. One thing though is if you want to go bigger than 35's one day, then go ahead and invest in some 17" wheels as most tire companies don't make any tires bigger than 35's for 15's anymore. It'll just help to keep your tire options open.
The Realift's should work with a 6.5" kit.... They work with the 6.5" Cepek just fine. The only thing is that the transmission crossmember needed to modified...
Pics of Southern Pride's (he has a 6.5" Cepek) truck without the Realifts:
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And now the same truck with Realifts:
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And his custom crossmember to clear the torsion bars:
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Oh... and his truck is on 37x13.50's mounted on 17x8's!
You do the same man!
