Suburban rear A/C expansion valve location?

[DRAGGIN95]

Maybe that will help more.

 

[1badgmc]

So, I got the orifice tube moved to its correct location now. The expansion valve, on the other hand, I don't want any part of that mess. I took the trim panels off of the back and started looking at it and I just do not want to go there. I'll take it to my mechanic when I go to get the system charged. If he feels it needs to be replaced, then I'll let HIM do it. Not me.

 

[DRAGGIN95]

Sound's like a plan!

 

[1badgmc]

My mechanic tells me I don't really have to bother with the expansion valve, so that's good. He says that when they replace one, they cut a hole in the side of the case around it and then go through that way to make it less of a pain in the ass.

 

[DRAGGIN95]

My mechanic tells me I don't really have to bother with the expansion valve, so that's good. He says that when they replace one, they cut a hole in the side of the case around it and then go through that way to make it less of a pain in the ass.

Well that's good, and what a strange fix, cut a hole in the side of the case, huh.

 

[1badgmc]

It's behind the trim panels so it wouldn't be seen ever. I thought it was a great idea myself.

 

[DRAGGIN95]

I hear you, I just don't like cutting holes in stuff like that, but it probably is the best way.

 

[1badgmc]

Oh, I understand that, but if it saves a half a day's work and the evidence of the job is going to be pretty much out of sight forever, then I'm all for it!

 

[Sawlty]

Evaporator Core Replacement - Auxiliary (Suburban/Yukon XL)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE

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CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Recover the refrigerant. See: Refrigerant\Service and Repair
3. Remove the rear quarter interior trim, as necessary.
4. Remove the right rear quarter trim panel.
5. Remove the right rear wheelhouse.
6. Disconnect the rear heater hoses from the auxiliary heater core (7), if equipped.
7. Disconnect the auxiliary refrigerant hoses from the auxiliary evaporator (6).
8. Disconnect the electrical connectors, as necessary.

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1. Complete the following steps in order to remove the heater/evaporator case cover:

9.1.Remove the case clips.9.2.Remove the 11 screws.9.3.Separate the case halves.

1. Remove the pipe insulator.
2. Remove the evaporator core.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

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1. Install the evaporator core.
2. Install the pipe insulator.
3. Install the heater/evaporator case cover clips.

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1. Install the blower motor (2) to the case.
2. Install the auxiliary case to the vehicle.
3. Connect the auxiliary refrigerant hoses to the auxiliary evaporator (6).
4. Connect the rear heater hoses to the auxiliary heater core (7), if equipped.
5. Connect the electrical connectors, as necessary.
6. Install the right rear wheelhouse.
7. Install the right rear quarter trim panel.
8. Install the rear quarter interior trim.
9. Connect the negative battery cable.

@DRAGGIN95. I bet you don’t still have the pldiagrams that go along with these instructions, do ya?

Thanks.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Still doesn't answer the question of exactly where it is.

(for someone's benefit in the now or in the future)

It's on the rear evaporator, directly connected to it via a fitting.

The evaporator is in the rear HVAC, mounting upright, directly downstream from the blower (i.e., "toward the front of the vehicle").

Then, from the TXV's input fitting there's an aluminum extension pipe that leads down, out of the HVAC box and through the body sheetmetal below, to the outside world where it connects to the high-pressure AC line.

The TXV's temp sensing tube then runs from the TXV to the low-pressure pipe of the evaporator, where the TXV's "bulb" (so to speak) is affixed the low-pressure pipe using a spring clip assy.

The BIG trick in servicing any of these is getting the fittings loose. I could NOT remove my TXV from the evaporator (maybe if I had used heat from a torch, but that's not wise). I did manage to remove the aluminum extension pipe from the TXV. In fact, for me, that was the ONLY fitting that was work-able. The other three (TXV-to-evap, evap-to-suction line, and aluminum extension pipe to high-pressure line) were coupled for life. I simply replaced everything, starting with the rear AC lines where they branch in the engine compartment on back.