93 Complete A/C system replacement - Questions for gurus

[someotherguy]

Not to sidetrack you sir but your brakes are asking for attention.

Richard

 

[DerekTheGreat]

^^^Glad I'm not the only one who noticed that reservoir was low.

 

[Road Trip]

Not to sidetrack you sir but your brakes are asking for attention.

Richard

^^^Glad I'm not the only one who noticed that reservoir was low.

Wow. You guys are good -- that's Eagle Eye stuff right there -- Nice!

 

[Supertex]

Put an adjustable cycling switch on it. The R12 switches short cycle with R134a. R134a and R152a for that mattter need to get to a lower pressure before the compressor cycles to get the evaporator temps nearer freezing. I have seen the van briefly pull 27°F vent temps in 108-110°F before the compressor cycles at highway speeds. It usually resides around 31-33°F, once the interior has cooled off. I have gone an 1/8 turn too much before on the van and turned the evaporator core into a solid block of ice every 5-10 minutes requiring switching to vent to thaw it out and get the vents blowing again.

This is R12. Same potential apply?

 

[pressureangle]

Even going down the road, I rarely see better than 45-42 so far. Given that we're probably 40% humidity and as of this moment 110°, maybe 40's isn't so bad?

I've been watching what you post pretty carefully. You seem to know your stuff. I paid special attention to your recent comment to someone about their recirculation door and sealing condition. My door works, but it doesn't seal. There are gaps on both sides... Not huge but at least 3/16 of an inch. Given that this is the first time I've torn something like this apart this far, I'm not sure I'm qualified to really say, but it appears that's the way this was from the factory. It's hard for me to tell because I'm also missing about a two and a half inch long and half inch wide strip from one edge. I know that's going to have to get fixed if I want the temps to really come down.

I thought perhaps in the interim since I need to remove and clean my windshield washer jets, that I might block off the outside air intake while I have the cowl cover off...see how much difference that makes.

Prior to recently, I had the 28-in radiator and an electric fan off of a Z28. Well I had everything torn apart, I noticed the radiator was leaking, so I opted to replace it with the 34" big block radiator. I found an appropriate shroud, but I'm using a five blade fan as you mentioned.

What is your take on that blue Ford orifice?

While I had my A/C box out, I simply glued some cut strips of rubber from my new floor mat to the edges of the door with 3M weatherstrip & emblem adhesive. I'm sure somebody knows how to get the box apart for a new door, but I'm too dumb or impatient to sort it. I haven't considered whether it's something you could even pretend to do with the box in place.

 

[Supertex]

Not to sidetrack you sir but your brakes are asking for attention.

Richard

Yepper...LOTS of things need attention on this lil gem. =P

It's basically sat for about the last 13-15 years. I'd drive it when I needed to haul a ladder...sometimes twice a week, sometimes once every 3 months. I should not have done that.

That brake thing is complicated...like every damn thing I do. I noticed that level being low too, but it's not leaking...not losing fluid. At least, I'm not losing fluid anywhere I can tell. Calipers are dry, and I have braided stainless lines that are in great shape. So the calipers have to be near maximum extension. I figured out a LONG time ago, that you don't "top off" the res unless you know you have a leak (and if you know you have a leak, and you still have a leak, you're a damned fool). Otherwise, you'll blow the top off the res when you're changing pads, and collapse the piston back into the caliper. Well, these aren't leaking. I haven't pulled the wheels yet, but looking through the wheel slots, there's still a good 1/4" of extension left between the pad backplate and the rotor, and the squealers aren't making contact. There's a chance that I got lazy and took it for an oil change sometime over the last 10 years, and they topped off the master cylinder. If I'd noticed that, I'd have drawn fluid out to approximate the levels before - I don't remember. I plan on flushing the system soon.

The other thing potentially affecting is the spindles. It's got some 2" drops that I got from a buddy - no idea the brand. He bought ext cab instead of single, so I put them on this truck. Thing is, they're apparently not case hardened. They're softer than factory, and the pads' backing plates leave marks...grooves even, on the spindle/caliper mating/sliding surface, and it causes irregular wear of the pads, inconsistent R/L engagement of the front brakes, popping, etc. So there's no telling what's up with those pads. I've already got some Wagner semi's to go back on. Just waiting for a slow moment to pull the rotors and have them prepped. Probably have to replace the spindles in the end, but I don't know what brand is solid...

Right now I'm putting a set of Bilsteins on it...but have to take it to the muffler shop before I can put the right rear on. Broke an exhaust hangar and don't want to melt the Bilstein's dust boot.

 

[Supertex]

I haven't considered whether it's something you could even pretend to do with the box in place.

I tried. You can drill out 4 plastic weld points and it comes apart in halves, and then either reweld with amazon plastic weld rods, or just bolt it. Problem for me was that I couldn't find a good door. I'd have tried the floormat, but it didnt occur to me. I was considering using a window-tinting squeegee, but wasn't sure if the adhesive would hold it. "Shoe Goo" is pretty damned good for that kind of thing, too, btw.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

This is R12. Same potential apply?

R12 does not absorb as much heat during evaporation, but it should have no problems getting there. R12 was used in many household freezers.

 

[Eveready]

I salute the OP for his persistence. My 93 had a shadetree conversion to R 134 before I bought it. It lasted about a month beyond the purchase. After banging my head against the wall for a year I finally found a shop that replaced the whole mess. It worked fine in 103 degree weather and has worked for 2 years. I hope you win the battle. I threw money at mine and am happy!

 

[Supertex]

I salute the OP for his persistence. My 93 had a shadetree conversion to R 134 before I bought it. It lasted about a month beyond the purchase. After banging my head against the wall for a year I finally found a shop that replaced the whole mess. It worked fine in 103 degree weather and has worked for 2 years. I hope you win the battle. I threw money at mine and am happy!

...you mean my lunacy. =P