Solid axle swap questions

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big green

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I've been looking at this page for a long time and am just now getting around to registering. I'm starting to collect parts to do a solid axle swap on my 1995 K1500. I don't intend to do a TON of wheeling right away, but mostly daily driving and some woods driving. Eventually I will want to put heavier axles under it and lift it more to do mainly woods driving. That being said, I have a few questions...

First, I have a GM Corporate 10 bolt axle out of a '79 K10 that I plan to use under my truck. That would mean using a different transfer case to put the driveshaft on the passenger side. Will I run into clearance problems doing so?

Also, I know there are several options on what brackets to use, or even make my own. I'm opting to buy the brackets for this since it's my first time. What should I look for and what should I stay away from? Who makes the best brackets? Who's brackets have had issues?

My last question is about the leaf springs. I'm not really sure what to look for to do this. I know lots of the sites that sell the brackets say to use the leaf springs from a '79ish Ford truck. Will that be standard even though I'm using a GM axle?

I appreciate any and all help and advice!
 

dirtridinz71

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I've been looking at this page for a long time and am just now getting around to registering. I'm starting to collect parts to do a solid axle swap on my 1995 K1500. I don't intend to do a TON of wheeling right away, but mostly daily driving and some woods driving. Eventually I will want to put heavier axles under it and lift it more to do mainly woods driving. That being said, I have a few questions...

First, I have a GM Corporate 10 bolt axle out of a '79 K10 that I plan to use under my truck. That would mean using a different transfer case to put the driveshaft on the passenger side. Will I run into clearance problems doing so?
Welcome and with the passenger drop tcase the stock transmission crossmember will have to be modified.

Also, I know there are several options on what brackets to use, or even make my own. I'm opting to buy the brackets for this since it's my first time. What should I look for and what should I stay away from? Who makes the best brackets? Who's brackets have had issues?
I used custom brackets so cant offer much advice on this

My last question is about the leaf springs. I'm not really sure what to look for to do this. I know lots of the sites that sell the brackets say to use the leaf springs from a '79ish Ford truck. Will that be standard even though I'm using a GM axle?

I appreciate any and all help and advice!
Most kits are made for use with the 47" springs (front springs from OOBS trucks). I think some are also made for the 52" springs (rear springs from OOBS). The longer springs will offer softer ride/more flex and also give approx 4-5" of lift.
When the sites list for a late 70's ford they are refferring to the front axle and spring pad width with of 32" which the chev front axle has the same width.
 

big green

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I'm leaning away from the idea of using the GM axles because of the transfer case swap and linkage, as well as the crossmember modifications. Maybe I'll have to sell those GM axles and get me a Ford axle and a 14 bolt afterall lol.
 

Swims350

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ok I'm looking to do the same swap so here's more info for you...

gm 10 bolt, must have an old dana44 flat top knuckle, buy an old used one and have it machined for studs, PS only, that may run $100-200 depends on what you pay for a used one and machine work is like $50 online.

buy a new nuckle already setup, runs around $250ish.

must buy a hi steer arm for PS at least, $130 or more online, maybe less if you surf around.

IF you do not change the DS knuckle to match AND you do NOT do complete hi-steer(which means buy a DS hi steer arm $130) then the center link/tie rod will be on an angle, no big deal, but if you want it to match(go in the same sides of the knuckles) you must change the ds knuckle to a dana44 as well, or do complete hi steer.

10 bolt lower driveshaft yoke output, so steeper driveshaft angle.

You may be able to help this with a clocking kit? not sure but it's not that terrible, unless you go with a huge lift.

The transfer case having to be changed, yours is equipped with vss or electric speedo, the older ps drops are not they are cable driven speedo units.

SO no speedo, UNLESS....

you find a PS drop 241 from an 89 or 88-91 suburban, the old body style. I also heard some may have a np208 which has vss, just a rumor though I can't tell you for sure on that one.

The shfit linkage for it can be converted to use a cable to operate the t-case, or you can fab a rod or linkage to reach across, also can move the shifter to the other side, something along those lines, fab work would be needed.

same for an older t-case you might want to get the linkage shifter and all to match and make it work.
 

AlNelson

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I'm leaning away from the idea of using the GM axles because of the transfer case swap and linkage, as well as the crossmember modifications. Maybe I'll have to sell those GM axles and get me a Ford axle and a 14 bolt afterall lol.

Use a clocking ring. It rotates the input up and it then clears the crossmember.

ok I'm looking to do the same swap so here's more info for you...

gm 10 bolt, must have an old dana44 flat top knuckle, buy an old used one and have it machined for studs, PS only, that may run $100-200 depends on what you pay for a used one and machine work is like $50 online.

buy a new nuckle already setup, runs around $250ish.

must buy a hi steer arm for PS at least, $130 or more online, maybe less if you surf around.

IF you do not change the DS knuckle to match AND you do NOT do complete hi-steer(which means buy a DS hi steer arm $130) then the center link/tie rod will be on an angle, no big deal, but if you want it to match(go in the same sides of the knuckles) you must change the ds knuckle to a dana44 as well, or do complete hi steer.

10 bolt lower driveshaft yoke output, so steeper driveshaft angle.

You may be able to help this with a clocking kit? not sure but it's not that terrible, unless you go with a huge lift.

The transfer case having to be changed, yours is equipped with vss or electric speedo, the older ps drops are not they are cable driven speedo units.

SO no speedo, UNLESS....

you find a PS drop 241 from an 89 or 88-91 suburban, the old body style. I also heard some may have a np208 which has vss, just a rumor though I can't tell you for sure on that one.

The shfit linkage for it can be converted to use a cable to operate the t-case, or you can fab a rod or linkage to reach across, also can move the shifter to the other side, something along those lines, fab work would be needed.

same for an older t-case you might want to get the linkage shifter and all to match and make it work.

Only 90-91 np241's got vss. !989 was the first year for the 241, BUT it was still cable speedo.

Change both knuckles. Its ghetto fab in my opinion to have an angled tie rod.
 

Swims350

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it might be but it works just ask some guys here.

maybe for the PS drop 241 in 90 because my 88 has a 241 ds drop and it has vss.
 

AlNelson

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it might be but it works just ask some guys here.

maybe for the PS drop 241 in 90 because my 88 has a 241 ds drop and it has vss.

Correct. That was my fault.

1988 was the first year for a 241, but ONLY DSD.
The square bodys got a 208 in 1988.
In 1989 the square bodys got a cable driven PSD 241.
In 1990 and 1991 the square bodys got a VSS PSD 241.

I just would hate to see a guy pick up a 1989 PSD 241 thinking it was VSS.
 

Swims350

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no doubt.

I had recently heard rumors of a 208 with vss from the factory, guy on another site said he had one and sold it for like $500.
 

AlNelson

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no doubt.

I had recently heard rumors of a 208 with vss from the factory, guy on another site said he had one and sold it for like $500.

Ive never heard of that. The 1990-1991 v3500 had a np205 with factory VSS
 
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