Rotors and brakes opinions

[CruiseLifeB]

I wouldn’t say they’re bad… yet. I also couldn’t tell how much longer they’ll last. & I would like to paint the knuckle when I do replace. I feel like doing that now vs whenever they go out would be a little easier

I was trying to keep the expenses down to keep room for labor costs. But it’s like instead of saving it it’s just going towards other parts . & I think I still may come out a little ahead so it is what it is at this point.

 

[CruiseLifeB]

As far as the rust on the surface of the rotors, that's a non-issue. As soon as you hit the brakes it will self-clean. The reason those discs are toast is that lip. You can turn the rotors, but with that much lip I'd bet they're wore out.

Thank you for explaining the reasoning & logic. Is the “lip” you’re referring to the outside edge of the rotor face Or the mating surface ?

 

[Erik the Awful]

The lip on the outside edge of the rotor face. It doesn't affect the rotor's performance, but it's a pretty good indicator of how much life the rotors have left.

You need to at least turn the rotors and then take a measurement to ensure they're above the minimum thickness, but they look like they won't pass. Getting the rotors turned is going to cost you at least $10 per rotor, and you have a low chance of them being usable. New Raybestos rotors are under $40 per side. I'm assuming you have a later K1500?

1996 CHEVROLET K1500 PICKUP 5.7L V8 Rotor | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[CruiseLifeB]

The lip on the outside edge of the rotor face. It doesn't affect the rotor's performance, but it's a pretty good indicator of how much life the rotors have left.

You need to at least turn the rotors and then take a measurement to ensure they're above the minimum thickness, but they look like they won't pass. Getting the rotors turned is going to cost you at least $10 per rotor, and you have a low chance of them being usable. New Raybestos rotors are under $40 per side. I'm assuming you have a later K1500?

1996 CHEVROLET K1500 PICKUP 5.7L V8 Rotor | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

a 98. just noticed your profile pic and saw your location.
you're in my neck of the woods. love pull a part, my first time going was this year and already been a few times.

 

[GoToGuy]

Uh, shouldn't you measure the rotors at what appears the thinnest area. Then deduct for turning, if that result is less than minimum, your done, order new rotors.

 

[Schurkey]

WHAT VEHICLE??? WHAT BRAKE CODE?

If this vehicle has JN3/JB3 brakes, consider upgrading to JN5/JB5. Upgrade the calipers, master cylinder and booster. If you need hubs anyway, get JN/JB5 hubs and rotors. Same diameter rotor, but thicker.

In MY driveway, I'd measure those rotors. If they're above the machining thickness, weren't causing pedal pulsation, and you weren't going to upgrade to the thicker JN/JB5 rotors, (or you already have the JN/JB5 rotors) I'd polish the rust from around and between the lug studs (inside where it slides onto the hub, and outside where the wheel mounts) and re-use 'em. As said, the rust on the braking surface is a non-issue, but the rust on the mounting surface could be a problem.

The pads you have are fine, unless they're bottom-feeders with poor friction characteristics. Even so, I'd have a tough time not putting them right back on.

Calipers look like they need some help--or replacement. If you're adventurous, you could pull 'em apart for cleaning and inspection. Most folks would just get "rebuilts" from the parts-store.

You must be registered for see images attach

Verify the brake hoses while you're in there.

Flush the brake fluid including cleaning all the scuzz out of the fluid reservoir on the master cylinder (or replace the master cylinder.) Many ABS systems will REQUIRE a scan tool to properly bleed the system. The early ('88--'90(?)) iron-body RWAL has it's own bleeder screw, no scan tool needed.


If you have JN/JB3 or JN/JB5 brakes, be sure to adjust the rear brakes, and make sure the park brake works--AND USE IT FREQUENTLY.

 

[CruiseLifeB]

WHAT VEHICLE??? WHAT BRAKE CODE?

If this vehicle has JN3/JB3 brakes, consider upgrading to JN5/JB5. Upgrade the calipers, master cylinder and booster. If you need hubs anyway, get JN/JB5 hubs and rotors. Same diameter rotor, but thicker.

In MY driveway, I'd measure those rotors. If they're above the machining thickness, weren't causing pedal pulsation, and you weren't going to upgrade to the thicker JN/JB5 rotors, (or you already have the JN/JB5 rotors) I'd polish the rust from around and between the lug studs (inside where it slides onto the hub, and outside where the wheel mounts) and re-use 'em. As said, the rust on the braking surface is a non-issue, but the rust on the mounting surface could be a problem.

The pads you have are fine, unless they're bottom-feeders with poor friction characteristics. Even so, I'd have a tough time not putting them right back on.

Calipers look like they need some help--or replacement. If you're adventurous, you could pull 'em apart for cleaning and inspection. Most folks would just get "rebuilts" from the parts-store.

You must be registered for see images attach

Verify the brake hoses while you're in there.

Flush the brake fluid including cleaning all the scuzz out of the fluid reservoir on the master cylinder (or replace the master cylinder.) Many ABS systems will REQUIRE a scan tool to properly bleed the system. The early ('88--'90(?)) iron-body RWAL has it's own bleeder screw, no scan tool needed.


If you have JN/JB3 or JN/JB5 brakes, be sure to adjust the rear brakes, and make sure the park brake works--AND USE IT FREQUENTLY.

It’s a 98 Silverado K1500 like 380K miles on the body I’m assuming the calipers as well . The bolts were a bit rusted it was difficult to get out. I looked at order rebuilt ac delco only 40$ from summit racing.but I don’t wanna break it down and learn more about the mechanics . They want you to send back in the core for a refund of 20$ so that would technically cut the price cheaper. Brake codes I have no idea about this is all new to me.

 

[CruiseLifeB]

WHAT VEHICLE??? WHAT BRAKE CODE?

If this vehicle has JN3/JB3 brakes, consider upgrading to JN5/JB5. Upgrade the calipers, master cylinder and booster. If you need hubs anyway, get JN/JB5 hubs and rotors. Same diameter rotor, but thicker.

In MY driveway, I'd measure those rotors. If they're above the machining thickness, weren't causing pedal pulsation, and you weren't going to upgrade to the thicker JN/JB5 rotors, (or you already have the JN/JB5 rotors) I'd polish the rust from around and between the lug studs (inside where it slides onto the hub, and outside where the wheel mounts) and re-use 'em. As said, the rust on the braking surface is a non-issue, but the rust on the mounting surface could be a problem.

The pads you have are fine, unless they're bottom-feeders with poor friction characteristics. Even so, I'd have a tough time not putting them right back on.

Calipers look like they need some help--or replacement. If you're adventurous, you could pull 'em apart for cleaning and inspection. Most folks would just get "rebuilts" from the parts-store.

You must be registered for see images attach

Verify the brake hoses while you're in there.

Flush the brake fluid including cleaning all the scuzz out of the fluid reservoir on the master cylinder (or replace the master cylinder.) Many ABS systems will REQUIRE a scan tool to properly bleed the system. The early ('88--'90(?)) iron-body RWAL has it's own bleeder screw, no scan tool needed.


If you have JN/JB3 or JN/JB5 brakes, be sure to adjust the rear brakes, and make sure the park brake works--AND USE IT FREQUENTLY.

Given what you said I may. Skip new brake pads. Keep using them & get a new water pump, instead. They’re both about 60$

 

[Caman96]

Given what you said I may. Skip new brake pads. Keep using them & get a new water pump, instead. They’re both about 60$

Nothin’ for nuthin’ the first priority of any vehicle should be the brakes. For if not yourself, then others…like children.

 

[Boots97]

As @Schurkey has said, what brake code do you have? Being a '98, it's likely either JB5 or JB6 brakes...

Either way, you at least need new rotors. They're pretty worn out and I wouldn't bother getting them turned. Your pads are still good and calipers look a bit dirty, but otherwise fine.