I use these guys rotors & drums.
They have a higher nickel content which helps handle the heat better, reducing warping. By a lot.
I'm hard on brakes. 20,000+ miles per year of 'me' driving.
I'd kill a set of $60.00 off-the-shelf jobber rotors in 8 months. So warped they couldn't be turned.
Drums would last for a couple of years till they were dead.
The E-line rotors lasted over 5+ years. Turned 3x.
The set of their drums installed at the same time were never turned & were only removed to adjust the shoes.
(The adjusters on these trucks are crap.)
Those drums are still on the truck in some P-n-P somewhere &, more than likely, still very serviceable.
Yea, the initial outlay is kind of expensive, but I would of bought 7.5 sets of the rotors during the time that the R1's lasted.
$250.00 for the R1's as opposed to $450.00 for the jobbers. ($60x7.5)
2.5 sets of jobber drums over that same period.
You don't need the drilled & slotted versions.
Some will say that drilled ones are prone to cracking around the holes.
I had those & never had that problem.
There is no performance advantage.
Some like the slotted rotors which supposedly help to let any gasses escape that develop between the pad & the rotor.
On these trucks, unless they're being rallied/road raced/driven stupid hard, (Moi? Nooo. Hehe.) there is is, once again, no real gain in stopping performance.
I use/like ceramic ads.
They take a bit to get up to temp. Couple of blocks or three. The first couple of stops can be disconcerting, ("C'mon! Whoa. I said WHOA!, *****!) but once you get used to that, it becomes part of driving the truck. Automatically taken into account for.
...and the ceramics are low-dust.
Brake dust on fancy wheels is a pet peeve. It can be a PitA to clean that crud off.
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