Reg cab short bed diesel

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Biggershaft96

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There a before and after. He had a thing in diesel world let me see if I can find it

EDIT: here's the results from a pull in Texas, he broke in the Friday pull but got best crowd reaction, down a little ways there is a pic of the truck and under the hood.
http://www.dieselworldmag.com/diese...hootout-mother-nature-wins-season-opener-sort
 
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dowsewashere

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If you dont think its going to fit you could try for the 4BT series cummins. Super efficient
 

great white

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Just go out and buy a C1500 Reg cab 6.5 diesel if that's what you want.

They were a factory option. Building it makes no sense. If you want a short box, find a long box and cut it down as RCLB C1500 trucks are far more common.

You'll spend far less time, money and hassle than trying to convert a gasser. People think they're crap (rightly so) so they go super cheap if they're in any kind of distress (IE: engine or body). Most offload them for a grand or so once the infamous PMD or air in the fuel causes them problems. Don't get sucked into the "asking what I got in it" BS. Pay what it's worth, which is not much. The 6.x is a point to bargain down, not up....

However, I also would recommend against a 6.x Diesel. You can squeeze 25 MPG (highway) out of a striped down, 5 speed, 3.42 rear, 2wd NA 6.2 on a good day, but usually closer to the 18-20 range.

A full size 2wd 2500 dodge with a 1st gen 12V can get 25+ MPG (highway, I've seen it do it first hand) and is better than a 6.5 in every respect except initial purchase price. well, the crappy dodge wrapper too....

If you're dead set on en engine swap into a RCSB GMT400, do a 4BT. A 4 BT can return 30-ish mpg in a light truck and dead stock it makes nearly as much power as a NA 6.2. A 6.5 TD is not the ticket if you want to build a MPG truck, you want NA in the gm blocks. The TD has bigger pre-chamber throats and that costs you MPG. They are built that way for more power (TD), trading off MPG to get it.

NA 6.x is around 110-130 HP. can you say: DOOOOOGGGGG?

Not to mention, 6.x's aren't the best for reliability. All things mechanical have an issue here or there, but there isn't a single aspect of the 6.X that isn't a problem. Head cracks, cylinder cracks blocks, cranks that twist in half and try to escape the block, main webs that crack at the cap bolt holes and cap registers, breaking starter mounts (makes the block garbage), injection pump issues, lift pump that dies regularly, overheating with any type of load, oil pressure switches that burn up, etc. There's just no end to it. They nickle and dime yo to death when they're not taking a full bite out of your bank account. Chuck the electronic diesel injection in the mix and then you can start adding things like PMD, fuel solenoid, fuel shut off solenoids, optical sensors, APP, turbo solenoids, vacuum pumps, and on and on and on.....

Mechanical 6.x diesels (pre 94) are slightly better than the electronic ones (post 94), but they still crack blocks and bust cranks at a wuss-bag 110-130 HP. Best advice I can offer someone with a 6.x is never take the oil pan off and look at the main webs. If it's still running, just keep driving it until it blows. You can't do anything about it anyways if it is cracking.....ride 'er 'till she bucks.

Guys are swapping 4 BT's into full size suburbans and getting 20-25 mpg CITY. I'd do that (in the truck you plan) and marry it to a 5 speed if I wanted mpg. They're a pretty easy swap too. Just go find and old bread van with a 4 BT and you'll get everything you need. Engine, adapter (they had TH400's in them), mounts, etc. Fuel system is easy peasy: buy a diesel tank pickup and run some diesel rated hose. Drop a lift pump in there somewhere and you're off.

The izusu 4 pot diesels are also very durable and return excellent mileage but are a less common swap choice (IE: less support in swapping one).
 
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Biggershaft96

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Isn't the 4bt just a 6bt with 2 less cylinders? Same trans bolt pattern and everything? If so it would be a pretty easy swap because 5.9 parts are readily avaliable


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