Post your lifted 2wd's!

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oohunter04oo

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Well, I lifted again!
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Already had the 4" RC Spindles. Ran 31x10.50s for about 5 years and wanted a little more...

Went with Canuck Motorsports' 2" taller coil and 2" block. While at it, went ahead and got Canucks UCAs, put in new upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends. Out back with the block, I went with Offroad Designs U-Bolt Flip. Bilstein 5100s all around and rolling on new 33x10.50 BFGs.


Looks good! How does it ride compared the factory springs?
 

Green15

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Looks good! How does it ride compared the factory springs?
It's definatly firm! I will admit, I didn't expect it to be THAT much firmer with the new coils, but it does ride firm. My shocks before were shot so maybe that threw me off for the comparison. Either way, I'm very happy with how the truck turned out.
 

oohunter04oo

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It's definatly firm! I will admit, I didn't expect it to be THAT much firmer with the new coils, but it does ride firm. My shocks before were shot so maybe that threw me off for the comparison. Either way, I'm very happy with how the truck turned out.

I've heard that about Canucks springs, I was thinking about get the RCX 2" kit. But they are probably just as firm. Would you mind measuring from the fender lip to the center of the rim for me? Thanks!
 

Green15

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I've heard that about Canucks springs, I was thinking about get the RCX 2" kit. But they are probably just as firm. Would you mind measuring from the fender lip to the center of the rim for me? Thanks!
I emailed Rough Country to ask about their 2" kit combined with the 4" spindles and all they wanted to tell me is that the truck won't align.... so I gave that up and got everything from Canuck for a good price, it's aligned great with the UCAs.

Anyways, ~23.75" from rim center to fender.
 

oohunter04oo

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I emailed Rough Country to ask about their 2" kit combined with the 4" spindles and all they wanted to tell me is that the truck won't align.... so I gave that up and got everything from Canuck for a good price, it's aligned great with the UCAs.

Anyways, ~23.75" from rim center to fender.

That's stupid, there is no good reason why it shouldn't align. Thanks for the measurements.
 

phule

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Ive read a couple threads where a 2"+4" was very difficult to align without the Ucas. After the ucas. Everything is great though.

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oohunter04oo

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Ive read a couple threads where a 2"+4" was very difficult to align without the Ucas. After the ucas. Everything is great though.

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Right. That makes since. But the RCX kit comes with balljoint spacers to correct the alignment. The only difference in their spindle and a factory spindle, as far as where the upper balljoint mounts.
 

chrome_rush

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Green15 may I ask why you went with the 33x10.5 versus the 33x12.5? From all I have read it seems with your now 6" of lift you would clear a 33x12.5 with no rubbing or trimming. Just curious. It looks great either way.

I could still use some help deciding what do do on mine. Not sure if I have posted it here or not. Can't decide on lift. I either want the rc 2" or 4" spindles and 2" blocks. I do not want to go any higher and would be adding a set of nerf bars. A few people already have issue climbing in lol. The 2" would still look good with my 31x10.5 bfg's (I also added 2" wheel spacers all around because of the flares to make the stance as aggressive as it would be without the flares) And from what I've read I could upgrade to a 32x11.5 with the 2" lift and not rub. The 31's don't even have 10k on them so I don't want to replace them yet. I just can't stop thinking the 31's will look tiny on the 4" lift. I would want to upgrade to a 32x11.5 or a 33x10.5 with the spindle lift. I just can't figure out what will look better with the 4" lift. A 32x11.5 or 33x10.5. Boils down to will the extra height narrower tire or slightly shorter but wider tire look more aggressive. Any input is appreciated. I want the truck level and I want it looking aggressive. I also have a bush bar for it but took it off until it's lifted it just hung to low for my liking and made the truck look lower then it is. With a part that you add to make it look more tough... it was giving a more lowered appearance and have gotten the opposite effect. After it's lifted I think it would then look good. Help me decide people. I've been trying to decide for 2 years. Still am undecided. Any pics of trucks that meet what I'm looking for would be helpful also. 2" lift and 31 or 32". 4" lift on 31 32 or 33x10.5 also.
 

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Green15

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Green15 may I ask why you went with the 33x10.5 versus the 33x12.5? From all I have read it seems with your now 6" of lift you would clear a 33x12.5 with no rubbing or trimming. Just curious. It looks great either way.

I could still use some help deciding what do do on mine. Not sure if I have posted it here or not. Can't decide on lift. I either want the rc 2" or 4" spindles and 2" blocks. I do not want to go any higher and would be adding a set of nerf bars. A few people already have issue climbing in lol. The 2" would still look good with my 31x10.5 bfg's (I also added 2" wheel spacers all around because of the flares to make the stance as aggressive as it would be without the flares) And from what I've read I could upgrade to a 32x11.5 with the 2" lift and not rub. The 31's don't even have 10k on them so I don't want to replace them yet. I just can't stop thinking the 31's will look tiny on the 4" lift. I would want to upgrade to a 32x11.5 or a 33x10.5 with the spindle lift. I just can't figure out what will look better with the 4" lift. A 32x11.5 or 33x10.5. Boils down to will the extra height narrower tire or slightly shorter but wider tire look more aggressive. Any input is appreciated. I want the truck level and I want it looking aggressive. I also have a bush bar for it but took it off until it's lifted it just hung to low for my liking and made the truck look lower then it is. With a part that you add to make it look more tough... it was giving a more lowered appearance and have gotten the opposite effect. After it's lifted I think it would then look good. Help me decide people. I've been trying to decide for 2 years. Still am undecided. Any pics of trucks that meet what I'm looking for would be helpful also. 2" lift and 31 or 32". 4" lift on 31 32 or 33x10.5 also.
I'll start by saying, I think you're doing things right. I say this because I did things completely out of order.

To answer your first question, I went with the 10.50s for a few reasons.

1st: I have 15x7 in. rims. This is too narrow to be recommended for a 12.50. Yes people mount 12.50s on 7 inch rims but it's not recommended to go more than 1.5 times wider tire to rim. [7 x 1.5 = 10.5]

2nd: because of reason 1, I didn't have the $ to get new rims.

3rd: fuel economy. Yes, larger wheels and tires and lift... who thinks of fuel economy... me. A 33" tire will weigh more and throw off the originally intended gear ratio causing a loss of quickness/ power. However, a 10.50 has less rolling resistance (friction) than a 12.50. The added width of a 12.50= more friction, further worsening fuel economy.

And to your last note: that with 6" of lift, I should be able to fit 12.50s w/out trimming.... for my application (back spacing, offset etc) I would have to trim the fender and bumper with a 12.50. I just got back from the shop today to see if I needed trimming. Had the 2" coils not been firmer than stock, maybe I'd need to trim for the 10.50s. As is, I do not need to trim.

Frankly, I thought 10.50s would look like crap. I'm actually very pleased with how they turned out. Slightly narrow when looking dead on, but it's worth it for me for the reasons above.
 

Green15

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Here was my truck before the latest work.
4" spindles, no block. 31x10.50s same rims.
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I could have probably squeezed 32x11.50s like this, people have, people do. After about 5 years of seeing the truck like this, I wanted a little more lift hence the 2" coils and block project I just finished.
Frankly I can't see how people fit 33s on the lift pictured above without a lot of trimming. I run my truck. I take it offroad. I am not one to just say, oh it fits it works! No. I want to make sure the tire works at full droop and lock without rubbing or bashing the fender etc.
 
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