Post your lifted 2wd's!

[Steve's Chevy]

Welcome....

also it Might help if you tell us who you are talking to

 

[cowsr4eating]

I have a 1991 c1500 2wd. I REALLY like the look of oohunter's white 2wd on the first page. I spent hrs reading all of the posts here and bought the Rough Country 4" spindle lift kit with the 3" blocks for the back. Few questions:

1) Brake lines in front are real tight. I took bracket loose, bent metal part of line, etc. Any suggestions on braided lines for the front only? I did disc brake conversion in back so I don't need lines in back.

2) I see where front wheels stick out 1.5" further than rear. Rough Country says I'll never notice and no reason for adapters. I'm picky about things like that and think it will bother me. Any suggestions on 1.5" steel wheel spacers? I can only find aluminum.

3) My intent was to get 285/75r17 tires and 17" rims. Problem is ... the more I read the more I was afraid the 32.7x11.2 tires might require trimming. I'm good with trimming the valance, but not sure if I want to trim the bumper. Any advice on tire size. Is 285/75r17 he largest 17" tire with valence trimming?

My stock 15" steelies will not bolt up with the RC 4" lift spindles so I have the truck on blocks in the garage until I decide on the items above. Advice from those who have been through the process is appreciated!

 

[95C1500]

Welcome! Pictures are always welcome! Hunter used 285/70 so I would assume that size would work great and not be much smaller then 285/75.

 

[cowsr4eating]

Crap .. typo. Yes I was looking at the 285/70r17. Specifically looking at Nitto Grappler, but some people say the tread is actually wider than advertised and tends to rub more. Hunter did the 6 lug conversion ... not sure if that helped him go with larger tires or not. Also appears the wheel backspacing/offset can affect if tire will rub or not. Looking at a 17x9.5 wheel with -10mm offset. Worst case if I have rubbing issues that a valance trim will not help what are my options to address?

 

[cjman250]

I have a 1991 c1500 2wd. I REALLY like the look of oohunter's white 2wd on the first page. I spent hrs reading all of the posts here and bought the Rough Country 4" spindle lift kit with the 3" blocks for the back. Few questions:

1) Brake lines in front are real tight. I took bracket loose, bent metal part of line, etc. Any suggestions on braided lines for the front only? I did disc brake conversion in back so I don't need lines in back.

2) I see where front wheels stick out 1.5" further than rear. Rough Country says I'll never notice and no reason for adapters. I'm picky about things like that and think it will bother me. Any suggestions on 1.5" steel wheel spacers? I can only find aluminum.

3) My intent was to get 285/75r17 tires and 17" rims. Problem is ... the more I read the more I was afraid the 32.7x11.2 tires might require trimming. I'm good with trimming the valance, but not sure if I want to trim the bumper. Any advice on tire size. Is 285/75r17 he largest 17" tire with valence trimming?

My stock 15" steelies will not bolt up with the RC 4" lift spindles so I have the truck on blocks in the garage until I decide on the items above. Advice from those who have been through the process is appreciated!

I have it on my truck and notice the front tires stick out, as far as aluminum spacers go as long as it's t6 (I believe) aluminum you should be fine. As far as wheel fitment, you're biggest issue that you'll run into is the backspacing depending on the size wheel you get. As far as tires I'm looking at 285/75/16 and I don't mind a little rub if it has any with some offset wheels

 

[95C1500]

Crap .. typo. Yes I was looking at the 285/70r17. Specifically looking at Nitto Grappler, but some people say the tread is actually wider than advertised and tends to rub more. Hunter did the 6 lug conversion ... not sure if that helped him go with larger tires or not. Also appears the wheel backspacing/offset can affect if tire will rub or not. Looking at a 17x9.5 wheel with -10mm offset. Worst case if I have rubbing issues that a valance trim will not help what are my options to address?

Oh, you're correct, the wheel size/offset affect how they fit. You'll probably need to trim the valence and the back of the fender. Hunter's 6 lug swap didn't help him fit larger tires, he used a 4x4 rear end (wider than the 2wd) to bring the back track width even with the front. Worst case, you'll have to trim the valence/bumper/fender. I believe that's the worst case anyways.

 

[Steve's Chevy]

I have a 1991 c1500 2wd. I REALLY like the look of oohunter's white 2wd on the first page. I spent hrs reading all of the posts here and bought the Rough Country 4" spindle lift kit with the 3" blocks for the back. Few questions:

3) My intent was to get 285/75r17 tires and 17" rims. Problem is ... the more I read the more I was afraid the 32.7x11.2 tires might require trimming. I'm good with trimming the valance, but not sure if I want to trim the bumper. Any advice on tire size. Is 285/75r17 he largest 17" tire with valence trimming?

My stock 15" steelies will not bolt up with the RC 4" lift spindles so I have the truck on blocks in the garage until I decide on the items above. Advice from those who have been through the process is appreciated!

I'm running Nitto terra grapplers 285/70/17 with no problems, my spare is 285/75 and it's fine if I don't use it. Will rub badly up front. My wheels do stick out and I'm going to run spacers and make em stick out even further i just love a wide stance.

here is how it looks now.

You must be registered for see images attach

it's getting more lift and 33/12.50/17 General red letters soon!

 

[cowsr4eating]

When you say rub badly up front you mean the spare? My spare is my stock 15" steelie with 235/75r15. It will only go on the rear. If I have a flat on front I'll have to move the back tire to front so spare goes on back.

On the topic of brake lines ... procomp has a set of braided lines for lifted C1500's. I was saying I already had braided lines on back when I did the rear disc brake conversion. When I looked closer at the procomp kit they are replacing the rubber hose that goes from the underside of the bed to the differential and has nothing to do with the hard lines at the wheel cylinders (or calipers in my case). My existing braided lines in back threw me off.

I know this thread is about lifting 2WD's, but two related topics are DRAC reprogram so the spedo and cruise work right and regearing the differential. Adding a DIP switch to the DRAC is super simple (30 min) and makes your spedo accurate no mater the tire size or differential gear changes. Recommending all here look into it if you have not made that change already.

My gears are 3.42. They will feel like 3.12 with 32.7" diameter tires. 3.9 gears with the new tires would give me the same performance as 3.42 and my stock tires. They don't make 3.9 so I'd go with 4.10. I've heard people say 3.73 gears will make you fall in love with your truck. I'd have to go with 4.10 gears to get closest with the feel of 3.75 with stock tires. Can anyone with 285/70r17 (or 32"-ish tires) comment on how noticeable the new tires make your truck sluggish? I'm seriously considering a 4.11 regear to give me a little more pep. Background on what I use the truck for. It is registered as a "farm truck". I pull a small cattle trailer to take cattle to market and slaughter, get feed, haul tractor, etc. I don't tow a lot, but it will be needed to tow. While I have the differential apart, seriously considering an eaton limited slip upgrade. Not the gov lock POS, but the helical gear unit. Seems it never fails when I have to take an animal to slaughter if rains and I have to pull load and pull trailer int he mud with the tractor, then connect to truck on pavement.

I know some will say why not just get a 4X4. This was my granddad's truck, only has 119K miles on it, is paid for, easy as hell to work on, and in 2016 I no longer have to get emissions inspection since it'll be 25 years old. I'm in Texas. Rarely snows/ices, but the day or two a year it does ... I manage with 2WD today so limited slip would only help where I'm doing fine already.

Hope this helps others doing the same upgrades.

 

[cjman250]

When you say rub badly up front you mean the spare? My spare is my stock 15" steelie with 235/75r15. It will only go on the rear. If I have a flat on front I'll have to move the back tire to front so spare goes on back.

On the topic of brake lines ... procomp has a set of braided lines for lifted C1500's. I was saying I already had braided lines on back when I did the rear disc brake conversion. When I looked closer at the procomp kit they are replacing the rubber hose that goes from the underside of the bed to the differential and has nothing to do with the hard lines at the wheel cylinders (or calipers in my case). My existing braided lines in back threw me off.

I know this thread is about lifting 2WD's, but two related topics are DRAC reprogram so the spedo and cruise work right and regearing the differential. Adding a DIP switch to the DRAC is super simple (30 min) and makes your spedo accurate no mater the tire size or differential gear changes. Recommending all here look into it if you have not made that change already.

My gears are 3.42. They will feel like 3.12 with 32.7" diameter tires. 3.9 gears with the new tires would give me the same performance as 3.42 and my stock tires. They don't make 3.9 so I'd go with 4.10. I've heard people say 3.73 gears will make you fall in love with your truck. I'd have to go with 4.10 gears to get closest with the feel of 3.75 with stock tires. Can anyone with 285/70r17 (or 32"-ish tires) comment on how noticeable the new tires make your truck sluggish? I'm seriously considering a 4.11 regear to give me a little more pep. Background on what I use the truck for. It is registered as a "farm truck". I pull a small cattle trailer to take cattle to market and slaughter, get feed, haul tractor, etc. I don't tow a lot, but it will be needed to tow. While I have the differential apart, seriously considering an eaton limited slip upgrade. Not the gov lock POS, but the helical gear unit. Seems it never fails when I have to take an animal to slaughter if rains and I have to pull load and pull trailer int he mud with the tractor, then connect to truck on pavement.

I know some will say why not just get a 4X4. This was my granddad's truck, only has 119K miles on it, is paid for, easy as hell to work on, and in 2016 I no longer have to get emissions inspection since it'll be 25 years old. I'm in Texas. Rarely snows/ices, but the day or two a year it does ... I manage with 2WD today so limited slip would only help where I'm doing fine already.

Hope this helps others doing the same upgrades.

I have 3.08s and 31x10.50 and it's so sluggish but I'm regearing to 3.73s before I get 33s

 

[Steve's Chevy]

I have 3.73's and 285's...in the winter it's not bad, but in summer with the a/c on it sucks... I also drive in 3rd gear driving under 50. Otherwise in will go in and out of O drive ....I'm going to regear to 4.56!