PCV hose replacement

[454cid]

If your vehicle is choking on "oil vapors", it's because you have faulty OEM baffling, or you have excess blow-by, or you have some other FIXABLE fault you haven't found (yet).

A catch-can is not a substitute for proper baffles, and it's not a substitute for good ring seal.

A catch can is essentially a baffle. It's just external to the valve covers. Why do you think this is the one system that can't be changed or improved upon over OEM?

 

[Schurkey]

the oil separator I built contains perforated sheet metal baffles. the steel wool also improves the effectiveness. those are more effective than the baffles that were OEM built in my 70's, 80's, and 90's vehicle.

Fine. You built a better baffle. At least it doesn't have to be manually emptied every few hundred miles.

My concern is that if you think you need it...your engine has excessive blow-by or some other fixable problem. The OEM baffles should be able to handle the normal volume of PCV fumes without oil loss. (Or the OEM baffles have disappeared, perhaps due to replacing the valve covers with aftermarket covers having no baffles.

and I'm sorry but I don't have a solvent tank, being really space constrained and "poor", but I got tired of having to deal with oil-covered interiors of intake manifolds when it comes time to swap intakes and improve performance, so I decided to invent something that actually worked. just sharing what I learned with those that are interested.

The whole point of saying I cleaned-up the intake at 90K was to let you know that after almost a hundred thousand miles...the oil and soot buildup wasn't causing any problems. It's simply a NON-ISSUE for vehicles in good condition.

Clapped-out junk is another story--but the fix isn't to put a catch-can on it.

A catch can is essentially a baffle. It's just external to the valve covers. Why do you think this is the one system that can't be changed or improved upon over OEM?

This is a catch-can. Also called a coalescing separator.

Has to be manually opened-up and emptied now and then. Like this one.

This is not a catch-can/coalescing separator. This is a baffle. Drains itself back into the engine. At least it doesn't need routine, frequent maintenance.

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Catch-cans are flat-out ridiculous. Extended/enhanced baffles are much less so--unless you're trying to baffle a typhoon due to a worn-out engine, or even an incorrect or defective PCV valve.


IF (big IF) the ring seal is good, the valve guides aren't wiped-out, there are no holes in the piston(s), and the PCV system works as it was originally engineered, you DO NOT NEED either item on a street-driven vehicle.

I can't be any more plain than that. If you think you need these items, you had better check the condition of your engine. SOMETHING is not right with it. The little bit of oil vapor pulled in by the PCV system is inconsequential. It is so slight that there is no significant build-up of icky-stuff in the intake manifold or ports, it does not upset the fuel/air mixture, it causes zero driveability problems unless there's a supremely high number of miles on the vehicle--and then the primary issue is EGR carbon, not oil vapor. This is proven every day by zillions of cars and light trucks that DON'T have driveability or maintenance problems with the PCV system sucking oil, or coating the intake with goo. Working properly, you wouldn't even have to add oil between oil changes based on what goes through the PCV system. (You might have to add between changes based on internal or external oil leakage other than the PCV system, or oil loss past the rings. And some oils are more stable--they don't have issues with the lighter oil molecules "evaporating". For example, Amsoil makes a point of saying that their synthetic evaporates less than certain other brands.)

 

[Jared Jackson]

Multi-millions of vehicles (practically ALL of them!) get by just fine with "oil vapors" getting into the intake manifold. Nobody eats off the inside of their intake manifold. Some soot or hydrocarbon residue does ZERO damage until it's thick enough to plug EGR passages or somesuch; and that takes tens if not hundreds of thousands of miles. Yes, when I took the intake off my 90,000 mile engine, I gave it a bath in the solvent tank. I did NOT go crying into the wilderness looking for a catch-can. And the deposits in the manifold were NOT causing any problems--the head gasket failed between #3 and #5, it wasn't an oil-vapor issue at all.

If your vehicle is choking on "oil vapors", it's because you have faulty OEM baffling, or you have excess blow-by, or you have some other FIXABLE fault you haven't found (yet).

A catch-can is not a substitute for proper baffles, and it's not a substitute for good ring seal.

Yes, a catch-can is childish. FIX THE REAL PROBLEM, don't invent a band-aid to cover-up the real problem. And don't fail to understand that normal PCV action causes no problem that needs solving.

#1 - Whenever I read your responses, I read them in the voice of Scotty Kilmer:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

it's entertaining!

Anyway, I think you might have misunderstood my posts. I have no love affair with the catch can. I don't have a shrine in my garage dedicated to them. I currently own 3 vehicles and not one of them has one. I just shared my picture/experience of one I ran in the past off the recommendation of a forum for an issue that seemed to be pretty common and documented. I didn't do it because I thought oil vapors were the devil and that the world was ending, I did it because I had planned on running that truck for a long time and wanted to keep the intake side of the engine as clean as possible. It was a preventative "MOD" that I chose to run as a responsible adult. It was a brand new truck, there were no problems to fix and I didn't want to void the warranty. If any issues arose, I could simply slip the factory pcv pipe back on and go to the dealership. I WANTED to do it. I fully understand how a PCV system works, I used to turn wrenches for a living. I could have left it alone and it would have been fine, but I took a step I WANTED to take to help keep it clean. I didn't even say anything to try and sell anyone on installing it on their vehicle... Technically, you don't have to wash your vehicle in Texas and it will run just fine until it finally explodes. But, I choose to wash it because I WANT to. Does that not make sense? I just feel like you are getting worked up because of something other people choose to do. No one here has made an argument for anything other than keeping the intake side cleaner. They didn't say it had any benefit of being clean, they just said they wanted to keep it clean.

People spend their hard earned dollars on dumb **** every day... let em.

 

[Jared Jackson]

Fine. You built a better baffle. At least it doesn't have to be manually emptied every few hundred miles.

My concern is that if you think you need it...your engine has excessive blow-by or some other fixable problem. The OEM baffles should be able to handle the normal volume of PCV fumes without oil loss. (Or the OEM baffles have disappeared, perhaps due to replacing the valve covers with aftermarket covers having no baffles.


The whole point of saying I cleaned-up the intake at 90K was to let you know that after almost a hundred thousand miles...the oil and soot buildup wasn't causing any problems. It's simply a NON-ISSUE for vehicles in good condition.

Clapped-out junk is another story--but the fix isn't to put a catch-can on it.


This is a catch-can. Also called a coalescing separator.

Has to be manually opened-up and emptied now and then. Like this one.

This is not a catch-can/coalescing separator. This is a baffle. Drains itself back into the engine. At least it doesn't need routine, frequent maintenance.

You must be registered for see images attach

Catch-cans are flat-out ridiculous. Extended/enhanced baffles are much less so--unless you're trying to baffle a typhoon due to a worn-out engine, or even an incorrect or defective PCV valve.


IF (big IF) the ring seal is good, the valve guides aren't wiped-out, there are no holes in the piston(s), and the PCV system works as it was originally engineered, you DO NOT NEED either item on a street-driven vehicle.

I can't be any more plain than that. If you think you need these items, you had better check the condition of your engine. SOMETHING is not right with it. The little bit of oil vapor pulled in by the PCV system is inconsequential. It is so slight that there is no significant build-up of icky-stuff in the intake manifold or ports, it does not upset the fuel/air mixture, it causes zero driveability problems unless there's a supremely high number of miles on the vehicle--and then the primary issue is EGR carbon, not oil vapor. This is proven every day by zillions of cars and light trucks that DON'T have driveability or maintenance problems with the PCV system sucking oil, or coating the intake with goo. Working properly, you wouldn't even have to add oil between oil changes based on what goes through the PCV system. (You might have to add between changes based on internal or external oil leakage other than the PCV system, or oil loss past the rings. And some oils are more stable--they don't have issues with the lighter oil molecules "evaporating". For example, Amsoil makes a point of saying that their synthetic evaporates less than certain other brands.)

You make me feel like I am on BITOG (bob is the oil guy) and I just started a thread on the one time I ran Lucas Oil Stabilizer..

 

[someotherguy]

(buys a round of Slick50 for everybody in the thread)

Richard

 

[snyderman5]

I just replaced my pcv hose because of the same reasons. I cut into the plastic pipe oops. I picked up some 4 pack of pcv hose ends from advance auto. They were marked for fords. I used the coupling hose part and the plumbing p trap hose for the end. I had to cut down the factory plastic hose to fit. Worked out good.

 

[454cid]

I just replaced my pcv hose because of the same reasons. I cut into the plastic pipe oops. I picked up some 4 pack of pcv hose ends from advance auto. They were marked for fords. I used the coupling hose part and the plumbing p trap hose for the end. I had to cut down the factory plastic hose to fit. Worked out good.

Do you have a part number for what you bought?

 

[454cid]

I just got a new OEM PCV grommet through ebay, and a new PCV valve. I read a very detailed article the other day saying how cleaning the PCV valve is not a good idea. I've always cleaned mine, and alternate between another one I bought years ago. I've got an oil usage problem so I figured I'd go ahead and replace it... it turns out, the main reason I decided to follow the guys advice... a weak spring... isn't valid. Our PCV valves don't appear to have a spring. Whatever, it's new.

As I mentioned at the start of this thread, I need to replace the line. I used a straight piece of properly rated bulk hose, but I cut it a little short. I bought another piece, and made sure to cut it a bit longer this time, and I still don't really like it. I've got compound curves and the hose tends to want to flatten out, in part because it came off the spool that way. After driving the truck a bit, and getting it hot, I made some adjustments to the hose and got it a bit better. I may add a right angle Tee fitting. That would give me a nice port for a vacuum gauge or cleaner.

Another idea, is silicone hose. I read it's not any good for gas an oil, but I've also read it's only pressurized oil where it fails. I ordered a foot of black silicone hose for 99 cents from ebay. Less than a buck, so no big loss if it doesn't last.

 

[454cid]

I got my foot of chinese silicone hose in the mail today.... the stuff kinda stinks! It looks like it'll work nicely, if it doesn't swell from the oil vapors.

I have no idea how they make any money selling it. It was 99 cents including shipping.

 

[454cid]

After finding this page, I decided I didn't feel like messing with the silicone hose I bought... at least for now. It's just going to go bad.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Why-Silicone-Hoses-Cannot-Be-Used-for-Oil-and-Fuel/

The J30R6 that I bought, with some adjustment and heat, is contouring better to the needed shape. It is still pushing the PCV valve over a little, but not too bad. I put some clamps on the hose just because.

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