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I'm not seeing any problems you're currently having that have anything to do with the actual engine, let-alone the cylinder heads. Well, not upgrading to a roller-cam, and therefore having to deal with "cam break-in" is causing some nervousness and worry.I'll answer questions and dig back into this mess - in due time. Today was a gawd damned disaster with other things that needed my attention.
Believe me, I want this ON THE ROAD. Even if it means swapping back to the original heads (which, if anyone were to ask me, I think would solve a LOT of problems)
The pop/hiss + glowing headers thing. I might have missed this earlier, but do you
have a hydraulic (hydroboost) or vacuum-assisted power brake setup?
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I've had aftermarket heads where they weren't as tight as they should have been. I ended up changing out the studs for ARP studs and all was fine/nuts were fine after that. The problem was the chinesium studs. Diameter or the thread pitch was off so that lock nuts weren't so locking. Welcome to the world of aftermarket parts that aren't what they should be. This is why many people will say aftermarket heads need disassembled and checked out and thoroughly inspected before install.EXACTLY what I bought from Rock Auto last time. You telling me some were randomly bad? I mean, they are nothing more than 3/8-24 locking nuts.
Many times I've disconnected the booster and blocked off the passage on the intake or manifold for cam break-in. Hooked up a mechanical oil gauge etc. Primary concern is getting the cam broke in and again you're getting caught up in fixing other issues. After the first fire that slathered on cam lube is long gone....the thing not to do is fire it 10 more times because run-stop-run- stop run-stop is NFG during cam break-in. Everybody tried to talk you into a roller... not once... but twice for these very reasons. if this engine is to survive you need to sort out and end these other bs issues before turning the key again.