Oil pressure gauge always pegged.

[GoToGuy]

Oil pressure switch is just that , on or off. The oil pressure transmitter or transducer is used with a gauge to indicate variable pressure levels.

 

[Schurkey]

I'm not sure what to look for.

I'm not even sure that the V6 had the above mentioned sender/elbow.

The original engine had an oil pressure sending unit...somewhere. Find the wire, splice it to the three-wire pigtail.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I have the final update to this thread. FKN three prong switch FINALLY came in. Damn thing shipped from ONE state over and took 2 full weeks to get here. I could have driven there myself and got it.

Installed.

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I turned the key to RUN and the oil pressure gauge went down to Zero. Finally, something went right!

So, I put everything back together and turned the key.... hoping for the best. Not so much. 2 minutes later I heard a pop and a hiss. The RPMS steadily dropped from 2500 - until the engine stalled out.

GRRRRRRRRRRR

It did fire right back up, but the oil pressure gauge is pegged again, and the headers are all glowing red again.

I'm close to being DONE with this engine.

I seriously, SERIOUSLY should have just listened to my brain instead of my ego and went with a crate engine.

 

[Schurkey]

I have the final update to this thread. FKN three prong switch FINALLY came in. Damn thing shipped from ONE state over and took 2 full weeks to get here. I could have driven there myself and got it.

Installed.

I turned the key to RUN and the oil pressure gauge went down to Zero. Finally, something went right!
So, I put everything back together and turned the key.... hoping for the best.

I assume that once the engine started, you got a reasonable oil-pressure reading on the gauge.

2 minutes later I heard a pop and a hiss. The RPMS steadily dropped from 2500 - until the engine stalled out.

I have no idea what would "pop and hiss". Or rather, I have far too many ideas--popped coolant hose, spraying coolant? Popped PS hose, spraying PS fluid? Popped fuel hose? Popped trans cooler tube? Failed gasket? Failed exhaust donut?

Something else?

It did fire right back up, but the oil pressure gauge is pegged again, and the headers are all glowing red again.

You need to investigate that "pop and hiss".

The two most-common problems leading to glowing headers: Lean fuel mix; and retarded ignition timing including lack of timing advance.

Neither fuel mix nor timing advance will peg the oil pressure gauge. Something else is wrong, to affect the gauge. (Or you just have lots of oil pressure, which might be as simple as "it didn't run long enough to warm the oil and thin it out.")

I'm close to being DONE with this engine.

I seriously, SERIOUSLY should have just listened to my brain instead of my ego and went with a crate engine.

I'm thinking that the problems you're facing now have nothing to do with the engine, they have to do with the rest of the truck that the engine is installed in--wiring issues, fuel-supply issues, etc.

I will say that I'm proud of you for continuing to fight the good fight. Some folks would have sold the thing at a tremendous loss just to be rid of it.

Life sucks at the wrong end of the learning curve. Adversity helps us grow...but don't expect to like it.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I assume that once the engine started, you got a reasonable oil-pressure reading on the gauge.

60 psi. I had hope there.... if only for a brief 2 minutes.

I have no idea what would "pop and hiss". Or rather, I have far too many ideas--popped coolant hose, spraying coolant? Popped PS hose, spraying PS fluid? Popped fuel hose? Popped trans cooler tube? Failed gasket? Failed exhaust donut?

Something else?

No idea here, either. I'll check again sometime tomorrow..... maybe.

You need to investigate that "pop and hiss".

The two most-common problems leading to glowing headers: Lean fuel mix; and retarded ignition timing including lack of timing advance.

Well, the ONLY clue I have to go on is that immediately after that incident, the rpms steadily dropped until it stalled out. I'm wondering if that brand new oil pressure switch gave out? Maybe not. I don't think that would have pegged the oil pressure gauge.

As for ignition timing, well, unless I can let the engine idle for a few minutes while I check the timing - that is.... without causing another failed cam break in..... I'm not sure how else to check it.

Here's a question: Can I let the break in continue even with the headers glowing? If so, I'll let it rev to the high effing heavens until blows LOL.

 

[Schurkey]

60 psi. I had hope there.... if only for a brief 2 minutes.

This is a 0--60 psi gauge...right? So it was pegged during the time the engine was running?

What's different now? Pegged when the ignition is on but engine not running?

No idea here, either. I'll check again sometime tomorrow..... maybe.

FIFY.

Well, the ONLY clue I have to go on is that immediately after that incident, the rpms steadily dropped until it stalled out.

I'm not convinced the pop/hiss and the engine stalling are related. Maybe. Maybe not. Won't know until you find the source of the pop/hiss. Did the pop/hiss cause the stalling? Or did the stalling cause the pop/hiss?

I'm wondering if that brand new oil pressure switch gave out? Maybe not. I don't think that would have pegged the oil pressure gauge.

If the oil pressure sending unit "gave out", I'd expect a big puddle of oil under the engine. Same for the gasket on the oil filter.

As for ignition timing, well, unless I can let the engine idle for a few minutes while I check the timing - that is.... without causing another failed cam break in..... I'm not sure how else to check it.

If this were me, I'd put the damper a few degrees advanced from TDC. 5, maybe 10 degrees advanced.

Then pop the distributor cap off, and look at the points on the reluctor vs. the points on the pickup coil. The points should be aligned, or just a little ahead of "aligned". If they're way ahead of alignment, the timing is retarded.

Notice that the points on this pickup coil are nowhere close to being aligned. I maybe should have posed the pictures differently to show alignment...but this is what I have.

On an 8-cylinder TBI distributor, there's 8 internal teeth pointing away from the center, and four external teeth pointing towards center.

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I'd be really tempted to bump the distributor five or ten degrees deliberately advanced, (counter-clockwise) to get you through "cam break-in" assuring that the initial ignition timing is not retarded. The engine isn't under load, and the RPM won't be excessive. Some additional temporary advance wouldn't be a bad thing. You could reset the initial timing correctly AFTER camshaft break-in, before the test-drive to seat the rings.

Make really certain that the single-wire connector for setting timing is PLUGGED IN, so that you're getting the expected electronic timing advance.

Here's a question: Can I let the break in continue even with the headers glowing?

NO!

If the headers are glowing, the exhaust valves and valve seats are overheating, too. You don't need to seize a valve in the valve guide, leading to collision with a piston, bending the valve and cracking the piston crown.

 

[DeCaff2007]

This is a 0--60 psi gauge...right? So it was pegged during the time the engine was running?

What's different now? Pegged when the ignition is on but engine not running?

Thought it was 0-80. Didn't even read the number, just saw that the "moonie" gauge was about 3/4 of the way up while the engine was running.

What's different now? Not even sure, myself. I'll check again maybe tomorrow.

FIFY.

What's that mean?

I'm not convinced the pop/hiss and the engine stalling are related. Maybe. Maybe not. Won't know until you find the source of the pop/hiss. Did the pop/hiss cause the stalling? Or did the stalling cause the pop/hiss?

It seems that the pop/hiss caused the stalling. Maybe a vacuum line gave out? That exact thing happened with the 84 Olds Wagon we had. It had the original 307 in it. We got it running - but it wouldn't STAY running without keeping a foot on the gas. We ended up replacing every vacuum line on that engine and it idled nice and smooth after that. Shame we sold that car.

If this were me, I'd put the damper a few degrees advanced from TDC. 5, maybe 10 degrees advanced.

Then pop the distributor cap off, and look at the points on the reluctor vs. the points on the pickup coil. The points should be aligned, or just a little ahead of "aligned". If they're way ahead of alignment, the timing is retarded.

Notice that the points on this pickup coil are nowhere close to being aligned. I maybe should have posed the pictures differently to show alignment...but this is what I have.

On an 8-cylinder TBI distributor, there's 8 internal teeth pointing away from the center, and four external teeth pointing towards center.

Can do. It took me more than a few minutes, but I understand that picture and the explanation now.

Alright well tomorrow is another day. Let's see what it brings.

 

[Schurkey]

Thought it was 0-80. Didn't even read the number, just saw that the "moonie" gauge was about 3/4 of the way up while the engine was running.

What's different now? Not even sure, myself. I'll check again maybe tomorrow.

I'd expect 0--60. But I could be wrong. My '88 K1500 is 0--60.

Point is, how is the gauge acting differently between when you installed the oil sending unit and new pigtail with revised wiring, and AFTER the pop/hiss, stall, and re-start? Is it pegged with the ignition on but the engine not running?

What's that mean?

Fixed It For You. Note your "quote" has the "....maybe" crossed-out. As in, "do this", don't put it off or just quit.

It seems that the pop/hiss caused the stalling.

Yes, it seems that way. As goofy as this experience has been, let's confirm it.

 

[GoToGuy]

Point being as ran for a short while, you had oil pressure, very cold oil pumped at higher RPM will give a higher psi . Not bad thing , GOOD.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I'll answer questions and dig back into this mess - in due time. Today was a gawd damned disaster with other things that needed my attention.

Believe me, I want this ON THE ROAD. Even if it means swapping back to the original heads (which, if anyone were to ask me, I think would solve a LOT of problems)