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The original engine had an oil pressure sending unit...somewhere. Find the wire, splice it to the three-wire pigtail.I'm not sure what to look for.
I'm not even sure that the V6 had the above mentioned sender/elbow.
I assume that once the engine started, you got a reasonable oil-pressure reading on the gauge.I have the final update to this thread. FKN three prong switch FINALLY came in. Damn thing shipped from ONE state over and took 2 full weeks to get here. I could have driven there myself and got it.
Installed.
I turned the key to RUN and the oil pressure gauge went down to Zero. Finally, something went right!
So, I put everything back together and turned the key.... hoping for the best.
I have no idea what would "pop and hiss". Or rather, I have far too many ideas--popped coolant hose, spraying coolant? Popped PS hose, spraying PS fluid? Popped fuel hose? Popped trans cooler tube? Failed gasket? Failed exhaust donut?2 minutes later I heard a pop and a hiss. The RPMS steadily dropped from 2500 - until the engine stalled out.
You need to investigate that "pop and hiss".It did fire right back up, but the oil pressure gauge is pegged again, and the headers are all glowing red again.
I'm thinking that the problems you're facing now have nothing to do with the engine, they have to do with the rest of the truck that the engine is installed in--wiring issues, fuel-supply issues, etc.I'm close to being DONE with this engine.
I seriously, SERIOUSLY should have just listened to my brain instead of my ego and went with a crate engine.
I assume that once the engine started, you got a reasonable oil-pressure reading on the gauge.
I have no idea what would "pop and hiss". Or rather, I have far too many ideas--popped coolant hose, spraying coolant? Popped PS hose, spraying PS fluid? Popped fuel hose? Popped trans cooler tube? Failed gasket? Failed exhaust donut?
Something else?
You need to investigate that "pop and hiss".
The two most-common problems leading to glowing headers: Lean fuel mix; and retarded ignition timing including lack of timing advance.
This is a 0--60 psi gauge...right? So it was pegged during the time the engine was running?60 psi. I had hope there.... if only for a brief 2 minutes.
FIFY.No idea here, either. I'll check again sometime tomorrow..... maybe.
I'm not convinced the pop/hiss and the engine stalling are related. Maybe. Maybe not. Won't know until you find the source of the pop/hiss. Did the pop/hiss cause the stalling? Or did the stalling cause the pop/hiss?Well, the ONLY clue I have to go on is that immediately after that incident, the rpms steadily dropped until it stalled out.
If the oil pressure sending unit "gave out", I'd expect a big puddle of oil under the engine. Same for the gasket on the oil filter.I'm wondering if that brand new oil pressure switch gave out? Maybe not. I don't think that would have pegged the oil pressure gauge.
If this were me, I'd put the damper a few degrees advanced from TDC. 5, maybe 10 degrees advanced.As for ignition timing, well, unless I can let the engine idle for a few minutes while I check the timing - that is.... without causing another failed cam break in..... I'm not sure how else to check it.
NO!Here's a question: Can I let the break in continue even with the headers glowing?
This is a 0--60 psi gauge...right? So it was pegged during the time the engine was running?
What's different now? Pegged when the ignition is on but engine not running?
FIFY.
I'm not convinced the pop/hiss and the engine stalling are related. Maybe. Maybe not. Won't know until you find the source of the pop/hiss. Did the pop/hiss cause the stalling? Or did the stalling cause the pop/hiss?
If this were me, I'd put the damper a few degrees advanced from TDC. 5, maybe 10 degrees advanced.
Then pop the distributor cap off, and look at the points on the reluctor vs. the points on the pickup coil. The points should be aligned, or just a little ahead of "aligned". If they're way ahead of alignment, the timing is retarded.
Notice that the points on this pickup coil are nowhere close to being aligned. I maybe should have posed the pictures differently to show alignment...but this is what I have.
On an 8-cylinder TBI distributor, there's 8 internal teeth pointing away from the center, and four external teeth pointing towards center.
I'd expect 0--60. But I could be wrong. My '88 K1500 is 0--60.Thought it was 0-80. Didn't even read the number, just saw that the "moonie" gauge was about 3/4 of the way up while the engine was running.
What's different now? Not even sure, myself. I'll check again maybe tomorrow.
Fixed It For You. Note your "quote" has the "....maybe" crossed-out. As in, "do this", don't put it off or just quit.What's that mean?
Yes, it seems that way. As goofy as this experience has been, let's confirm it.It seems that the pop/hiss caused the stalling.