New roller cam for my 422 sbc

[stroker52]

Technical Specs:

Combustion Chamber: 64cc

Intake Runner: 190cc

Exhaust Runner: 62cc

Intake Valve: 2.02"

Exhaust Valve: 1.60"

Max. Valve Spring Lift: 0.575"

Spring Pressure Closed: 115 lbs. @ 1.800" <----- just FYI this is killing you.. you need to be around 145 on the seat.. check the springs i bet there down around 100lbs now,,

Spring Pressure Open: 310 lbs. @ 1.225" <----- this needs to be atleast 375lbs open...

Retainer Material: Steel

Valve Seal Material: Viton Valve Guide

Material: Manganese Bronze

Valve Job: 5-angle


with the motor you have you are giving up so much with those heads.. you need a set of DART PRO 1 heads.. still street friendly, but a set of CNC darts with 2.08 1.60 valve i can see a 50+ HP gain... what block are you running? i had a 434 18deg trick flow heads almost 700 lift soild roller cam flat top piston motor.. i had small domes in it but the motor didnt like spray.. so i had a set of JE pistons made so i could spay it.. 300 plate kit.. it was fun for all of 5 passes then BOOM.. my fuel pump went south in the run and lean the motor out... barry grant pumps suck.. lol!!!

back to yours... i wouldnt change cams i would look into a new set of heads for you size motor.. your heads are good up to 383ci so this tells me there just mild street heads...

 

[stroker52]

Eeeyikes! How things have changed since I built my last Hi-per. sbc, 20 yrs. ago! To my way of thinking, (old skool!) that is an absolutely monster cam. Wow!

yeah things have changed so much over the years lol... the cam i got is kinda small for a LS motor.... but at $400 just for the cam i was floored... and the wife looked at me funny cuz she knows what cams cost for the old school motors... i played around alot with cams a few years back and spent alot of time on the dyno with my car..

 

[kevhill85]

Technical Specs:

Combustion Chamber: 64cc

Intake Runner: 190cc

Exhaust Runner: 62cc

Intake Valve: 2.02"

Exhaust Valve: 1.60"

Max. Valve Spring Lift: 0.575"

Spring Pressure Closed: 115 lbs. @ 1.800" <----- just FYI this is killing you.. you need to be around 145 on the seat.. check the springs i bet there down around 100lbs now,,

Spring Pressure Open: 310 lbs. @ 1.225" <----- this needs to be atleast 375lbs open...

Retainer Material: Steel

Valve Seal Material: Viton Valve Guide

Material: Manganese Bronze

Valve Job: 5-angle


with the motor you have you are giving up so much with those heads.. you need a set of DART PRO 1 heads.. still street friendly, but a set of CNC darts with 2.08 1.60 valve i can see a 50+ HP gain... what block are you running? i had a 434 18deg trick flow heads almost 700 lift soild roller cam flat top piston motor.. i had small domes in it but the motor didnt like spray.. so i had a set of JE pistons made so i could spay it.. 300 plate kit.. it was fun for all of 5 passes then BOOM.. my fuel pump went south in the run and lean the motor out... barry grant pumps suck.. lol!!!

back to yours... i wouldnt change cams i would look into a new set of heads for you size motor.. your heads are good up to 383ci so this tells me there just mild street heads...

You are right stroker52 but I am try to move away from the 7k plus rpm range little. I have upgrade these heads in a few ways . I have a set of ARF 220 setting in the garage but over the dart and ARF heads these heads help me keep some TQ dnow low. My truck still 4000lbs for now. When the back halfs done the weight should drop some.

The backhalf I have ordared all ready. Just waiting for the motor to go back in to start this part.
http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-565-rear-framelow-profilewith-bends.aspx

1) I have a set of beehive springs
2) titanium-retainers
3) titanium locks
4) Soild rollers lifter. http://www.dougherbert.com/sb-chevy-total-pro-solid-roller-lifters-33457.html
5) they are 205 cc with cnc work done
5) valve are 2:05 / 1:60
6) eagle H beam rods
7) eagle forge crank
8) srp flat tops 2 relv valves
9) chrome moly rings
10) baby m block
11) Tci 700r4 with a 1 and 2 gear change
12) 411 spooled
13) 3000 stall 10' conv

 

[sewlow]

Just watched the two vids. Oh man...Audio ****! I want those sounds for a ring-tone, or an alarm clock!
Better yet...My truck sounding like that! Oooo!!!

 

[kevhill85]

That GTO sounds sweet!!!!

 

[stroker52]

that works lol just get your seat pressure 130 or above so it dont float the valves at 6000rpm

just be careful with the beehive springs.. there having problems with them breaking if there comps.. the best beehive spring on the market is pack springs.. there a little more money but dont fall off like the comps and the best part they dont break lol.. had a friend just lose a $15,000 LS 412ci motor cuz of there springs.. he called them and they helped with the rebuild

 

[stroker52]

That GTO sounds sweet!!!!

yeah im hope mine sounds that way.. we got the same cam and same mufflers, are heads are almost the same but he is a 6.0 an im a 5.3... the video dont do it justices

 

[kevhill85]

Technical Specs:

Combustion Chamber: 64cc

Intake Runner: 190cc

Exhaust Runner: 62cc

Intake Valve: 2.02"

Exhaust Valve: 1.60"

Max. Valve Spring Lift: 0.575"

Spring Pressure Closed: 115 lbs. @ 1.800" <----- just FYI this is killing you.. you need to be around 145 on the seat.. check the springs i bet there down around 100lbs now,,

Spring Pressure Open: 310 lbs. @ 1.225" <----- this needs to be atleast 375lbs open...

Retainer Material: Steel

Valve Seal Material: Viton Valve Guide

Material: Manganese Bronze

Valve Job: 5-angle


with the motor you have you are giving up so much with those heads.. you need a set of DART PRO 1 heads.. still street friendly, but a set of CNC darts with 2.08 1.60 valve i can see a 50+ HP gain... what block are you running? i had a 434 18deg trick flow heads almost 700 lift soild roller cam flat top piston motor.. i had small domes in it but the motor didnt like spray.. so i had a set of JE pistons made so i could spay it.. 300 plate kit.. it was fun for all of 5 passes then BOOM.. my fuel pump went south in the run and lean the motor out... barry grant pumps suck.. lol!!!

back to yours... i wouldnt change cams i would look into a new set of heads for you size motor.. your heads are good up to 383ci so this tells me there just mild street heads...

Spring spec
http://www.dougherbert.com/performance-valve-springs-12306.html
OD:1.550
ID: .735
Roller Spring
Max Lift: .725
Spring Type: Dual W/Damper
Seat Pressure: 195/1.940
Open Pressure: 600/1.200
Coil Bind: 1.150

Titanium Retainers
http://www.dougherbert.com/10-1-550-titanium-retainers-10176.html
Titanium locks kit
http://www.dougherbert.com/10-1-550-3-8-titanium-retainers-locks-special-32471.html

 

[kevhill85]

Well the other day the new parts for my heads arrived. Big thanks to storker52 for your advise. I went with a smaller valve spring. The new spring are good to 675 lift. In the photo the spring on the left was the 725 lift spring and the spring on the right is the new 675 spring. I went with a +.200 valve to get to the 1.850 install height on the new springs. The 725 lift spring needed 1.950 install height that I could not get to. Again thanks Storker52

new springs and retainers

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Valve

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[stroker52]

no problem bud.. just remember you can over spring a cam.. if your cam is 575 lift all you need is 600 lift springs any more then that you can hurt the cam.. i try to stay with in 50 thou. of the cam lift..