Need rear brake and seal advice 1994 K3500 6.5 diesel This started because the emerg

[jrsavoie]

Need rear brake and seal advice 1994 K3500 6.5 diesel

This started because the emergency brake when released was no longer pulling the brake pedal all the way up.

I tightened the inline adjuster and it snugged the brakes up but it still did not seem as though the cable was being pulled back far enough.

After adjustment the emergency brake was fully engaged at about half pedal.

I pulled the drum off suspecting something amiss with the springs on the emergency brake cable.

The drums measure 12 7/8" I.D.

I found an oily mess.

How do you pull the axle on this truck? Does it just slide out or do you have to pull a clip in the rear end?

What are the best brake parts and seal to buy? And where to buy them? Part numbers?

Is there something that I might need to do to the emergency brake cable? Is it common to have to replace the return spring?

Is there a good thread someplace with pictures?

Last eight of the vin RJ384037

Thanks

 

[outalne94z71]

Need rear brake and seal advice 1994 K3500 6.5 diesel

This started because the emergency brake when released was no longer pulling the brake pedal all the way up.

I tightened the inline adjuster and it snugged the brakes up but it still did not seem as though the cable was being pulled back far enough.

After adjustment the emergency brake was fully engaged at about half pedal.

I pulled the drum off suspecting something amiss with the springs on the emergency brake cable.

The drums measure 12 7/8" I.D.

I found an oily mess.

How do you pull the axle on this truck? Does it just slide out or do you have to pull a clip in the rear end?

What are the best brake parts and seal to buy? And where to buy them? Part numbers?

Is there something that I might need to do to the emergency brake cable? Is it common to have to replace the return spring?

Is there a good thread someplace with pictures?

Last eight of the vin RJ384037

Thanks

you should never have to adjust the cable, when the rear shoes are out of adjustment the cable also will seem like it has too much slack, to remove the axle it is held in by the bolts on the end of the axle and it slides out, the hub has 2 nuts and a washer and lock ring inside it, you remove those to slide the hub off and change that seal, you put the hub back on and tighten the inner nut to 50# followed by the washer and lock ring and then outer nut, the shaft gets silicone(i prefer permatex right stuff) on the flange and then bolted back on to the hub.

since the shoes are contaminated they are junk and you need to replace them with the spring kit, also check your wheel cylinder boots for any moisture, if there is any then i strongly recommend replacement as it wont be long before you end up with brakes covered in brake fluid

 

[jrsavoie]

Is there a return spring on the emergency brake pedal in the cab?

 

[outalne94z71]

Is there a return spring on the emergency brake pedal in the cab?

no, the cable tension pulls the petal up

 

[jrsavoie]

no, the cable tension pulls the petal up

There in lies my main concern of this project. That was my main problem. The oil seal is just something I have to deal with.

Is there a way to check if the emergency brake return springs in the drum are working correctly?

I had about 1" of slack in the cable with the pedal up.

 

[outalne94z71]

There in lies my main concern of this project. That was my main problem. The oil seal is just something I have to deal with.

Is there a way to check if the emergency brake return springs in the drum are working correctly?

I had about 1" of slack in the cable with the pedal up.

most likely the pivot point of the emergency brake arm on the brake shoes is rusting up not allowing the cable to be pulled back, some times it's a bad cable but most of the time it ends up to be the arms or pivot pin getting rusty

 

[jrsavoie]

I have 10 1/2" ring gear, full floating. One nut on the axle bearing. 13 x 3 1/2" drums

In all the schematics I have seen for this.- There appears to be 2 different sets of cables & 8 or so different rear end choices. - there was no spring near the cab or on the emergency brake pedal assembly>

There are springs on the emergency brake cable inside of the drum. I do not know for sure if they are return springs or guides.

I do know the pedal is no longer returning far enough to shut the brake light off. Unless you pull it up with your foot. I adjusted 1/2" of slack out of the cable and there was still 1/2" of slack to be taken out.

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=2778938&ukey_assembly=375096

Mine looks like this http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAsse...9538&ukey_driveLine=6246&ukey_trimLevel=15167

I will try to get a picture of the cables

 

[outalne94z71]

I have 11 1/2" ring gear, full floating. One nut on the axle bearing. 13 x 3 1/2" drums

In all the schematics I have seen for this.- There appears to be 2 different sets of cables & 8 or so different rear end choices. - there was no spring near the cab or on the emergency brake pedal assembly>

There are springs on the emergency brake cable inside of the drum. I do not know for sure if they are return springs or guides.

I do know the pedal is no longer returning far enough to shut the brake light off. Unless you pull it up with your foot. I adjusted 1/2" of slack out of the cable and there was still 1/2" of slack to be taken out.

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=2778938&ukey_assembly=375096

Mine looks like this http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAsse...9538&ukey_driveLine=6246&ukey_trimLevel=15167

I will try to get a picture of the cables

unless someone swapped in a 11.5 from a newer truck you should not have one, the aam 11.5 14 bolt didn't exist till 2000

the springs on the cables do help push the arms back which in turn pull the cable, its pretty rare that those springs ever go bad, you have a problem with a stuck cable or arms, you should never have to adjust slack out of cables, something is sticking and if you put the e-brakes on with the cable overadjusted now it will cause the shoes to be dragging on the drums or may not even get drums on with new shoes.

the proper way for it all to be set is new shoes adjusted till they have a slight drag on the drums, make sure the arms are all the way back, the bar connected to the arm should have some movement to it(has a spring on it to keep one end tight to arm), and the cable is adjusted just snug, at that point you should get roughly 3 clicks on the petal before it starts to engage the e-brake

 

[jrsavoie]

10.5"