My philosophy is to replace the lil' bastages on sight. Truth is, I'm too lazy to actually do that...but I don't trust an electrolytic cap any farther than I can throw it after it's ~20 years old.I don't recall seeing any electrolytics on the mainboard. I usually test them and if they're just fine I leave them.
I've recapped multiple loudspeaker crossovers, a Bose 901-V equalizer, a CD player, a couple of dbx 118s, and various other (mostly audio) projects. The audio stuff always sounds better after the aged-out electrolytics are in the trash.
Yeah, I learned about Tantalums during my dbx recapping/repair.The cartridges themselves are loaded right full of tantalum caps. Those do exciting things when they decide to cut loose.
I'm told they're not wildly reliable, either. But I've never seen one actually popped. I put in fresh ones "just because".
20--30 minutes, less in summer than in winter? Naw, there was SOMETHING wrong with mine.It does boot wicked slow with the black cartridges.
Not mine.The red primary carts boot right up.
Since I've never used anything but Snap-On scan tools (MT/MTG2500, and Solus Pro) for the last twenty-plus years, I've got nothing to compare to. However, I thought it worked just fine on OBD2 except for auto-bleed of the ABS; (14.2 will auto-bleed, I don't know when that started--I've heard 9.x and 10.x) and the very limited graphing capability of the MTG2500 which is a genuine downside. OTOH, the MT2500 has ZERO graphing and that's getting towards unacceptable even for OBD2.Honestly this thing is really only good for OBD1 but it is great for that.
I have this hypothesis, relating to my '03 Trailblazer. I suspect that with a Tech 2, I can disable the Damned Daytime Running Lights by turning the PCM pulse-width to zero. Which beats the relays and wiring mess I have keeping the DDRLs dark now.I have a Tech2 for 1992-2010 GM rigs
But I've never seen a Tech 2 in real life, let alone held one in my hand.
So I don't know if my thoughts on fixing DDRLs would actually work. GM has a "secret" method of dealing with them, but I don't have access to that bulletin.
I went from MTG2500 to Solus Pro 8.2; occasionally a Solus Pro 14.2.I am looking at trying out a Solus Pro or Modis with a scope module on my OBD1 rigs. The graphing capability would be real nice for viewing trends in the live data. They'll both use the MT2500 cables & adapters so I can buy a bare tool, clean it up, and reload the battery with fresh cells. Even if it comes without the charger, I can use an old AC power pak that has 12v DC 3A output from my drawer of wall warts.
I'm keeping the brick and my Tech2 tho.
The much-improved graphing and generally bigger screen is the big deal. Secondarily, there's memory for the last dozen or more vehicles that have been worked-on, so I have my entire fleet loaded in memory--I don't have to enter the VIN number each time.
There's a removable memory card, which I have not played with at all. I guess it allowed the tool to be updated via the internet, moving the card from a computer to the scan tool; and allows taking scan tool info from the tool memory to a computer to "show the customer" or for intensive study after-hours. Of course, there's NO updates for the Solus Pro any more. Support ended years ago.
And, yes, being able to use all my previously-obtained vehicle connectors and Personality Keys is nice.
The 8.2 Solus Pro came with a functional battery. Maybe doesn't have full and proper battery charge life, but it works just fine for me. The 14.2 Solus Pro had a dead battery that would not take a charge. I kept trying to charge it on-and-off. One time, I left the silly thing in the charger for about a week (I forgot it was in there) and when I came back...it works. Again, probably not to full capacity, but enough to scan a couple vehicles which is all I need.
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