MT2500 ?

[udidwht]

Looking to get one for my OBD-1 1994 P-30 chassis (454 TBI w/4L80E)

At min what do I need along with the scanner alone? Anything to stay away from?

Much appreciated

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Ebay is were I found mine.

 

[Schurkey]

You need the scanner body, the cable that connects to the ALDL connector on the vehicle. You'll need the adapter that goes between the scanner cable and the ALDL connector--probably Snappy "GM1", although '94--'95 some vehicles use the OBD2 connector but not the full OBD2 diagnostics. I don't know what connector your vehicle has.

You need a primary software cartridge new enough for the vehicle, which in this case would have to be newer than '94. The '81 1/2--1999 cartridges were really popular. Beware cartridges that only go back to '96.

Ideally, you'd also have a "Troubleshooter" cartridge to go along with the Primary cartridge. Again, needs to be compatible with the vehicle you're using it on.

The MT2500 used a 9-volt battery. The MTG2500 included graphing feature, and used a crappy rechargeable battery plus a wall-wart recharger.

There's dozens of OBD1 connectors, including at least three for GM alone. There's the OBD2 connector, but it sometimes needs "Personality Keys" specific to a vehicle, or to a vehicle sub-system (ABS, for example.) And there's dozens of "personality keys".

Operator manuals (paper or DVD) can be really useful.

I used the '2500 scan tools for years and years. Given a choice at this point, buy a Solus, Solus Pro, or Solus Ultra. The graphing and user-interface is enormously better than the MTG2500, and the MT2500 has no graphing at all.

 

[udidwht]

Here's a pic of the connector...

The VIN for the P-30 is in my signature. tell me some more about the Solus, Solus Pro and Solus Ultra. Much appreciated.

 

[Schurkey]

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[hatzie]

FYI

The MT2500 needs list for OBDI GM stuff is fairly small

You need;
The handheld red brick MT2500.
MT2500-1099, 1980-1999 Domestic Primary Cartridge
MT2500-1193, 1980 1/2-1993 GM Primary Cartridge ( The 1999 cartridge neutered 1990 and prior support )

You don't need the fast track troubleshooting cartridges. Nice to have but unnecessary.
DO NOT put more than one primary cartridge in the tool.

Data cable ( I would buy a new 6' or 10' data cable rather than use a janky beat to hell 30 year old cable )
MT2500-10, GM-1, 12 terminal ALDL adapter
MT2500-90, MULTI-1, data adapter
**Don't worry about the GM-3 ABS & GM-2 1980-82 five terminal ALDL adapters. They cost way more than a Multi-1.

Power cables for GM & some Ford EEC III & IV; ( You can make both of these )
MT2500-100, Cigarette lighter plug to 5.5x2.5mm DC barrel plug centre positive
MT2500-200, Battery +terminal clip to 5.5x2.5mm DC barrel plug centre positive
**NOTE You don't need to run the ground to the outer contact for the mt-2500 but you will to power a Solus Pro or Modis handheld.

Ford & Chrysler need the MT2500-41 ground cable to talk to some controllers but GM always has ground in the ALDL port. You can make one with 10' of black wire, an alligator clip, clear heat-shrink, and a 12129493 Female Metripak 280 terminal.

For 1995 - 1999 vehicles
MT2500-46B, sixteen terminal OBDII adapter with personality key slot
I use a 3' OBDII extension cable with this adapter.

Keys for the 1999 Domestic cartridge;
GM uses K-2A, K-9, K-12
Ford uses K-2A
Chrysler/Jeep uses K-7 & K-13

Personality Key charts thread. Solus and Modis charts are in this thread as well.
MT2500 are based on 1995-1999 domestic primary cartridges
Snap-On personality key charts forum thread

The data cable and OBDI / OBDII adapters and some of the personality keys will work with the Solus Pro or Modis models
See the charts in the key chart thread.

For 1992-2001 GM T400 trucks I'd recommend a clone Tech2.
The MT2500 will do in a pinch but it will not do things like ABS bleed on the Kelsey Hayes ABS units.

 

[hatzie]

For those of you that need pictures.
The tool itself. There is probably a 9V battery under the LH rubber bumper. I'd remove it from the tool when you aren't using it.
The diag cord plugs into a recessed two row DB15 male on top of the tool. There is an RJ12 serial port on the top of the tool as well but I've never messed with mine.
It has been disassembled and thoroughly cleaned to bring back the YN buttons functionality and get rid of years of filth. I rinsed out the cartridge slots with a toothbrush and Deoxit D5 cleaner. It's a fiddly PITA to re-assemble the plastic ribbon and connectors for the display as you close the shell.

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The GM & Domestic cartridges.
I opened the cartridges, removed the boards, cleaned the cartridge PC board edge fingers with Weimans brass polish, 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, Deoxit D5, and cotton washcloths and washed the plastic shells with Dr Bronners soap and HOT water. NO different than cleaning test gear daughterboards and connectors or Video game cartridges. You MUST get ALL traces of the polish off the fingers and cartridge PC board. It'll corrode them if you don't. I spray Deoxit on a cloth and wipe off the contacts once the IPA has dried. Deoxit leaves behind some anti corrosion chemicals to keep oxygen away from the contacts.

NOTE YOU ONLY USE ONE PRIMARY CARTRIDGE AT A TIME or one Primary and one Troubleshooting.
You only need the 1980-93 GM or 1999 Domestic for GM applications.
The Troubleshooter cartridge is gilding the lily but it's a good dust cover.

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If you luck out and get a set of the black programmable cartridges with Domestic software loaded along with your tool they will cover 1980-1995 GM, Ford, Chrysler, and Jeep. My tool came with both Black cartridges with Domestic, Asian, and Euro software enabled but I don't care about the Euro or Asian stuff.
Be sure Domestic coverage is loaded on them. Snap On discontinued serviceing these a while ago so you can't load anything new on them.
If you already have the 1980-1993 GM and 1999 Domestic primary cartridges don't bother looking for these. They tend to be expensive and you don't need them.

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[hatzie]

Home brew power cables. I use the alligator battery clips and cigarette lighter power adapters for other gear as well.
It's a modified Harbor Freight Solar Power panel adapter kit # 59171
You can reverse polarity on the SAE plugs that come in that kit. That's bad MoJo. I cut the SAE plugs off and installed Deutsch DT plugs & shrouds. I installed a Deutsch shroud on the polarity tester as well. Note the powered cable is always Female so the recessed terminals are difficult to short out.

The MT2500 specific cables are in the upper left hand corner.
-The black wire bundle is my homemade MT2500-41 ground cable. 10' of black wire with an alligator clip with a cover on one end and clear heat-shrink over a 12129493 Female Metripak 280 terminal on the other.
-The Red power wire bundle is in two pieces. A Single Red wire to the centre and a 90° adapter. The DC barrel plugs are 5.5mm X 2.5mm. A 90° plug was $10. The straight plug and adapter pigtail was less than $2.

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Get a new primary data cable. A bunch of sellers have the 6' and 10' versions listed for the Modis and Solus for around $30-$35 on evilbay. The Janky beat to death data cable extension that came with my tool was wrapped in electrical tape and it looked like rats had been chewing on it.

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GM ALDL data cable adapters 1980-1994ish
-MT2500-10, GM-1 Notice the barrel plug jack on the side of the adapter.
-MT2500-90, MULTI 1-1 This will handle 1980-82 GM2 & GM-3 Bosch ABS connections on the 1988-94's.

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For the curious. My tool came with a five terminal MT2500-11, GM-2.
These are used on some 1980-1982 GM vehicles. I doubt I'll ever use it.

Side by side GM-2 five terminal ALDL and GM-1 twelve terminal ALDL

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[Schurkey]

Holy crap. If I'd taken my MTG2500 apart like you did, maybe that would have fixed the slow-boot problem it had.

Assuming I got it all put back together properly, it sure couldn't have hurt.

I kinda assumed that there was a failing electrolytic capacitor inside that wouldn't power-up properly...but for all I know there aren't any electros inside.

 

[hatzie]

Holy crap. If I'd taken my MTG2500 apart like you did, maybe that would have fixed the slow-boot problem it had.

Assuming I got it all put back together properly, it sure couldn't have hurt.

I kinda assumed that there was a failing electrolytic capacitor inside that wouldn't power-up properly...but for all I know there aren't any electros inside.

If you don't have a great deal of patience I wouldn't open up the red brick. The connector cable is two celluloid ribbon cables stuffed into connectors like antique 386 & 486 laptop display & keyboard cables. They're an SOB to get slid back in and close up the case. I have experience with those those kind of little monsters and it still took me more than one try to get them seated so the display was working.

I don't recall seeing any electrolytics on the mainboard. I usually test them and if they're just fine I leave them.

The cartridges themselves are loaded right full of tantalum caps. Those do exciting things when they decide to cut loose.

It does boot wicked slow with the black cartridges. Probably pushing the 1987 technology way outside it's envelope.
The red primary carts boot right up.
Honestly this thing is really only good for OBD1 but it is great for that.
I have a Tech2 for 1992-2010 GM rigs and an up to date Autel Maxsys for OBDII & CAN. Neither of those will talk to my 1990 Cavalier Z24 and Corvette. My cousin has an 89 F body and my brother has a 1990 K2500. So I've used the brick a bunch with them.
I am looking at trying out a Solus Pro or Modis with a scope module on my OBD1 rigs. The graphing capability would be real nice for viewing trends in the live data. They'll both use the MT2500 cables & adapters so I can buy a bare tool, clean it up, and reload the battery with fresh cells. Even if it comes without the charger, I can use an old AC power pak that has 12v DC 3A output from my drawer of wall warts.
I'm keeping the brick and my Tech2 tho.