(1989 Silverado, RCSB, 5.7L)
Wanted to share how I was able to achieve -2.5° of camber in the front with stock control arms and a 5/6 drop. I use my truck for autocross so I want all the negative camber I can get. It really made a incredible improvement in cornering power.
The front upper control arm brackets have these limiting tabs in the slotted holes for the eccentric bolts. On my truck, I couldn't get the front most eccentric bolt to go fully inwards to get negative camber due to the limiting tab still intact.
As you can see in the picture, I've knocked that tab out.
The best way I found to do it is to get an air hammer (you're gonna have a long day and sore hands with just a chisel and hammer) and knock it out from the inside out. I sat inside the wheel tub essentially. As for the control arm, I didn't have to separate the balljoint from the spindle, I just simply turned and moved it aside.
Once it's out, you can assemble everything and turn the bolts all the way negative.
I found that both upper control arm brackets had the limiting tabs only on the outside holes (forward-most and rear-most). The rears had them in a location that I would never need to go to so I didn't bother with it (will never need negative caster, only positive maybe around +4°-5° for an aggressive autocross setting).
Hope this helps someone!
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Wanted to share how I was able to achieve -2.5° of camber in the front with stock control arms and a 5/6 drop. I use my truck for autocross so I want all the negative camber I can get. It really made a incredible improvement in cornering power.
The front upper control arm brackets have these limiting tabs in the slotted holes for the eccentric bolts. On my truck, I couldn't get the front most eccentric bolt to go fully inwards to get negative camber due to the limiting tab still intact.
As you can see in the picture, I've knocked that tab out.
You must be registered for see images attach
The best way I found to do it is to get an air hammer (you're gonna have a long day and sore hands with just a chisel and hammer) and knock it out from the inside out. I sat inside the wheel tub essentially. As for the control arm, I didn't have to separate the balljoint from the spindle, I just simply turned and moved it aside.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Once it's out, you can assemble everything and turn the bolts all the way negative.
You must be registered for see images attach
I found that both upper control arm brackets had the limiting tabs only on the outside holes (forward-most and rear-most). The rears had them in a location that I would never need to go to so I didn't bother with it (will never need negative caster, only positive maybe around +4°-5° for an aggressive autocross setting).
Hope this helps someone!
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk