Let the fun begin.
- Thread starter 62barsoom
- Start date
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HotWheelsBurban
Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
Stainless steel is the way to go on those door sill plate screws. I'm doing that on both mine too.
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What about the donor motor in the bed?
1) Is this Plan B? If the donor motor's cam & lifters pass a visual inspection are you going to button it back up
and swap this in?
2) Or, if the donor motor looks promising, are you considering a quick refresh of the normal short block
wear items (rings, bearings, new timing set, gaskets) and then swap it in?
3) Or, if the donor motor looks promising, would you use this as an excuse to refresh the heads along
with the short block stuff in scenario #2? Then swap it in?
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Worst case scenario is that the donor motor is also wounded just like the original one. This would mean that
both engines have been polluted by really hard chewed up lifter/cam lobe bits throughout. (And also the
engine oil cooler if equipped!) :-(
NOTE: For all the trouble that EFI systems can give us in troubleshooting mode, one of *the* main benefits
that they give us engine guys is that since they are much more precise with cold fueling (vs carbs with
the mechanical choke plates) ...you can open up a high mileage EFI SBC and there's near-zero ridge at
the top of the cylinder bores? And I've personally seen decent cross-hatch still showing in the bores?
It's amazing, especially when compared to what an old carb guy is used to seeing when the heads come
off a carbureted junkyard jewel. :0)
In English, as long as you open up a high mileage EFI SBC *before* a cam failure, it's possible to give
the engine a quick hone, clean up all the bits, install new rings, bearings, timing chain set, and fresh
gaskets, and have a nice, quiet runner with a long life on short money.
Let us know what you have to work with & what you are considering...
This is actually a 5.3 in our 05 Sub. And I just pulled a motor and transmission out of an 05 Silverado. What a royal pain compared to the GM400. It'll be easier to replace the cam than pull the motor. The goal is to sell it as soon as it runs so a used cam and a new lifter, set of new head bolts since they're tty and let er go. I hate to kill the value in the truck motor just for the two parts. This project has to be finished before the Tahoe gets it's turn. I have the spare 350 on the stand and it's stuck . A budy has a freshly built 5.7 he may trade for the front diff and trans out of the 05 silverado. Plus he wants one of my head sets. His motor has no heads as he used them to build a mudding Jeep. Well I've got 2 sets of heads so a quick trip to the machine shop for freshening and drop that in the Tahoe. All of that sounds easy but at 67 it's a little more tough. Plus I'm stuck doing it shade tree minus the tree and in a week the Temps will be in the 30's. The tractor at least lets me pull and tote things. Ugh It's a shame that the Sub is such a complete maintenance pig. It's a fantastic truck but my keeping it going list is longer than the Subdivisions. Throw in the rust and it just has to go. Fully loaded LT awd Auto ride. The shocks aren't doing the air thing anymore and are around $800.00 each, the seat heaters are intermittent and if you park it wrong the sunroof leaks. Add nauseum. So looking forward to the Tahoe.
I used to be on a mud bog racing team in the late 80's. The year I stopped we were 6th in the country on the indoor circuit. Started with a 6 cylinder 1st generation Bronco. That morphed into ford frame, blown alcohol mouse motored, Eldorado differentials on both ends homemade #60 chain transfer box Suzukie Samurai bodied beast. Sold that and built an Alston pro gas chassis running a 590ci Rodak with a 14/71 huffed on alky. This 5.3 with aluminum heads, roller lifters and rockers would have been a tricked out race mouse back then.
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