Is voodoo or black magic required? - brake line

[unstable]

1989 3500

so, I stripped out my proportioning valve and upon ordering a new one, I decided maybe I was done tinkering with blown out brakelines and I invested in some of that non-rusting stuff. I've laid in all new lines except for the two that seperate off of the block on the rear-end.

I happened to notice that the drivers side rear line was leaking at the wheel and needed replaced anyhow...but here's where it gets tricky. I could be wrong but it seems that the rear fittings switch to metric? The fittings I had on hand to plumb the rest of the truck certainly don't thead in.

Secondly, what voodoo spell is required to get the fitting back into the drum? The clearance here is next to impossible...it almost had me wondering if unbolting the rear end off of the leaf springs would be worth doing. I guess maybe if I knew for certain the size of the fitting, I might be a little more confident about trying to use the line to angle it in right...frustating stuff right here. I'd rather re-plumb the entire truck up to this point 5 times over than have to do these last two lines.

-Ken

 

[badazzbulldog]

pull the drum off take the wheel cylinder out and start it that way and the fitting isnt metric you just have to line it up staight to thread in

 

[454ss]

the wheel cyl bolts can be a ***** too, every time i think about pulling the backing plates to get it all started. not to hijack but baddazzbulldog, what size and backspacing/offset wheels are ya running there? sharp truck, real simular to mine only its black.

 

[unstable]

thanks for the insight guys. This is a full floater rear, I believe. It has the extra bolt set in the middle of the hub. Pain in the ass. I'd like to dump it for a posi because I don't need a heavy duty rear like this. I'll check into pulling the drums, honestly lost when it comes to the brakes/rear on this thing. I've done drum brakes before but I heard this kind of rear-end is weird.

also, I could be mistaken, but if memory serves the entire truck is plumbed with either 1/4" or 3/16 lines and fittings. The 3/16 lines break-out and go to each wheel, the 1/4 line is a trunk link that runs from the front of the truck to the rear brakes. At the middle of the rear end is a rubber line to account for the suspension which goes into a block that goes to the left and right. I tried 3/16 fittings in one side of this block (as the rest of the truck is 3/16 or 1/4 - well except for that catastrophe between the proportioning valve, master cylinder and ABS module)...anyhow, the 3/16 fitting started to thread and then hung up...didn't want to force it because that's what got me in trouble to begin with. I took it to the parts store and they matched it to a metric fitting, the old fitting threaded into a metric union fine. Long story already too long, I got the fitting back and tried threading into the block and...no good.

I'll check into how to pull these drums. Thank you again. I do appreciate it.

 

[454ss]

to pull the drums, remove the bolts that hold the axel shafts in and slide them out. then look in there and find the retaining clip/circlip and remove that, then with a magnet find and remove the 1/4'' square key that the clip was holding in place and keeps the wheel bearing nut from loosening. now remove the nut, it might need a tap to get going but then just spin it out with a screwdriver in one of the keyways. now your ready to pull the drum/bearong assembly together, be carefull not to damage the seal in the back. hopefully it wont have a big lip on the edge of the drum from wear or the shoes hang up on it and make it a *****. now its the same as any other drum brake job, remove the shoes and hardware and you can then get to the wheel cyl. or backing plate however you want to do it. its not bad really, sounds like alot but after the first side you see how it goes and its easy. remember to put some silicone on the axel shaft flange when reinstalling. also as long as its apart and as cheap as they are id go ahead and just replace both wheel cyls. and make sure the adjusters arent all froze up too.

 

[unstable]

to pull the drums, remove the bolts that hold the axel shafts in and slide them out. then look in there and find the retaining clip/circlip and remove that, then with a magnet find and remove the 1/4'' square key that the clip was holding in place and keeps the wheel bearing nut from loosening. now remove the nut, it might need a tap to get going but then just spin it out with a screwdriver in one of the keyways. now your ready to pull the drum/bearong assembly together, be carefull not to damage the seal in the back. hopefully it wont have a big lip on the edge of the drum from wear or the shoes hang up on it and make it a *****. now its the same as any other drum brake job, remove the shoes and hardware and you can then get to the wheel cyl. or backing plate however you want to do it. its not bad really, sounds like alot but after the first side you see how it goes and its easy. remember to put some silicone on the axel shaft flange when reinstalling. also as long as its apart and as cheap as they are id go ahead and just replace both wheel cyls. and make sure the adjusters arent all froze up too.

454ss-
Thank you. It's much appreciated. When I'm doing this, I will have access to the line to replace it at the same time? It seems like the backing plate being as close to the leaf spring is what my issue is. I have no problems with tearing this thing down though. It's a good opportunity to replace the cylinders, do the lines and get more familiar with how the floater works.

 

[454ss]

when you get it striped down you can remove the wheel cyl with the backing plate atteched and you will be able to get to the line, or you can remove the backing plate with the wheel cyl still bolted on to it then you can access the bolts/line easier. im not the best at explaining it but once you get tearing it apart and see what your working with im sure youll see what i mean. let us know how it goes.