I AM BRAND NEW and Desperately need HELP!

[618 Syndicate]

Unless adding boost the 6.0 is much stronger and sounds better

Neither of those are true. The 6.0 block can take a bigger bore without being sleeved, but that's the main difference. Stock for stock the 6.0 makes more power, but we're not talking about a stock application here. You can buy 3 or 4 5.3/4.8's for what a 6.0 costs, get one with the good stock heads, have them cleaned up, add a cam and headers to a 5.3 and it will leave a stock 6.0 for dead for the same money.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

I've been seeing complete Gen V 5.3/6L80e for about what people are asking for 6.0/4L80e. I might do that if I swap anything again, the torque and HP are pretty comparable between those.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I've been seeing complete Gen V 5.3/6L80e for about what people are asking for 6.0/4L80e. I might do that if I swap anything again, the torque and HP are pretty comparable between those.

The 6Ls are much more costly to overhaul and require an immense amount of updating and correction compared to a 4L80E...For example, the avg retail price for a 4L80E stock-to-mid perf build is about $2500-$3000 (transmission only, not including R/R) and the only real issues w/the 4L80E that have to be addressed at overhaul are worn boost valves (replaced w/Sonnax LB1 kit to prevent high line pressure), flimsy int clutch snap ring (replaced with 727 direct clutch drum snap ring), worn TCC regulator valves (replaced with Sonnax TCC valves) and some minor lubrication flow opportunities.

The 6L80, on average commands at least $4000 up to $5000 just for the rebuild (or reman unit). There's over 20 individual common pattern failure/weakness areas within that transmission that have to be addressed with updated/upgraded parts from the aftermarket (not to mention the torque converter)...Additionally, the cost to just replace a bad shift solenoid or pressure switch is equivalent to replacing the entire TEHCM (TCM) as all the solenoids, pressure switches and temp sensor is apart of one unified assembly which runs from $600-$1000 or so, depending on where you look)...If a 4L80E shift solenoid goes bad, it's $15-$20 to replace it. The entire electrical suite can be replaced for under $250.00 for all years 4L80E.

Lastly, the 6Ls command and control is a lot more complex than that of the 4L80E, requiring more extensive reprogramming and adaptation to integrate into a another vehicle where as 4L80E can be done with a basic segment swap for anything that took a 60 or a stand alone controller for a resto-mod application.

The above may not account for all of why the pricing is similar but it def explains a lot of it...

Cost + Risk should always be less than Benefit and the GM 6Ls come with a lot more overall sustainment risk than the 4L80Es for purposes of retro-mod swaps.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

The 6Ls are much more costly to overhaul and require an immense amount of updating and correction compared to a 4L80E...For example, the avg retail price for a 4L80E stock-to-mid perf build is about $2500-$3000 (transmission only, not including R/R) and the only real issues w/the 4L80E that have to be addressed at overhaul are worn boost valves (replaced w/Sonnax LB1 kit to prevent high line pressure), flimsy int clutch snap ring (replaced with 727 direct clutch drum snap ring), worn TCC regulator valves (replaced with Sonnax TCC valves) and some minor lubrication flow opportunities.

The 6L80, on average commands at least $4000 up to $5000 just for the rebuild (or reman unit). There's over 20 individual common pattern failure/weakness areas within that transmission that have to be addressed with updated/upgraded parts from the aftermarket (not to mention the torque converter)...Additionally, the cost to just replace a bad shift solenoid or pressure switch is equivalent to replacing the entire TEHCM (TCM) as all the solenoids, pressure switches and temp sensor is apart of one unified assembly which runs from $600-$1000 or so, depending on where you look)...If a 4L80E shift solenoid goes bad, it's $15-$20 to replace it. The entire electrical suite can be replaced for under $250.00 for all years 4L80E.

Lastly, the 6Ls command and control is a lot more complex than that of the 4L80E, requiring more extensive reprogramming and adaptation to integrate into a another vehicle where as 4L80E can be done with a basic segment swap for anything that took a 60 or a stand alone controller for a resto-mod application.

The above may not account for all of why the pricing is similar but it def explains a lot of it...

Cost + Risk should always be less than Benefit and the GM 6Ls come with a lot more overall sustainment risk than the 4L80Es for purposes of retro-mod swaps.

^^^ This post ought to be copied over into this thread:

L31/6L80e

Well, my first official post here. As the title states, I am in the middle of swapping my 4L60e to a 6L80e, yes, behind the L31. I've done countless hours of research and contacting companies on how and what the swap would entail. Some of this swap is trial-by-error. I haven't really seen any...

www.gmt400.com

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

The 6Ls are much more costly to overhaul and require an immense amount of updating and correction compared to a 4L80E...For example, the avg retail price for a 4L80E stock-to-mid perf build is about $2500-$3000 (transmission only, not including R/R) and the only real issues w/the 4L80E that have to be addressed at overhaul are worn boost valves (replaced w/Sonnax LB1 kit to prevent high line pressure), flimsy int clutch snap ring (replaced with 727 direct clutch drum snap ring), worn TCC regulator valves (replaced with Sonnax TCC valves) and some minor lubrication flow opportunities.

The 6L80, on average commands at least $4000 up to $5000 just for the rebuild (or reman unit). There's over 20 individual common pattern failure/weakness areas within that transmission that have to be addressed with updated/upgraded parts from the aftermarket (not to mention the torque converter)...Additionally, the cost to just replace a bad shift solenoid or pressure switch is equivalent to replacing the entire TEHCM (TCM) as all the solenoids, pressure switches and temp sensor is apart of one unified assembly which runs from $600-$1000 or so, depending on where you look)...If a 4L80E shift solenoid goes bad, it's $15-$20 to replace it. The entire electrical suite can be replaced for under $250.00 for all years 4L80E.

Lastly, the 6Ls command and control is a lot more complex than that of the 4L80E, requiring more extensive reprogramming and adaptation to integrate into a another vehicle where as 4L80E can be done with a basic segment swap for anything that took a 60 or a stand alone controller for a resto-mod application.

The above may not account for all of why the pricing is similar but it def explains a lot of it...

Cost + Risk should always be less than Benefit and the GM 6Ls come with a lot more overall sustainment risk than the 4L80Es for purposes of retro-mod swaps.

I don't know if I've just been lucky, but I've owned 3 vehicles with the 6l and they haven't given me a problem. I would either use the computer that originally controlled the 6l or a Holley PCM. If I was planning on racing the vehicle I would probably get something else, but for just a driver I think they are fine.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I don't know if I've just been lucky, but I've owned 3 vehicles with the 6l and they haven't given me a problem. I would either use the computer that originally controlled the 6l or a Holley PCM. If I was planning on racing the vehicle I would probably get something else, but for just a driver I think they are fine.

Yes, thus far you've had good luck and so have many others but when they fail, the wallet takes a beating...I've seen some come in with over 250k miles on them and just a burnt 3-5-R or 4-5-6 clutch and they shift nicely when in good working condition...It's when they transition from that state to a one of disrepair that the repair/replacement bills rack up...

Just putting the above posted information out there as another point of consideration when trying to decide between those two transmissions for a vehicle that didn't originally come from the factory with a 6L.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

Neither of those are true. The 6.0 block can take a bigger bore without being sleeved, but that's the main difference. Stock for stock the 6.0 makes more power, but we're not talking about a stock application here. You can buy 3 or 4 5.3/4.8's for what a 6.0 costs, get one with the good stock heads, have them cleaned up, add a cam and headers to a 5.3 and it will leave a stock 6.0 for dead for the same money.

I’ve never had an issue finding 6.0 for low cost. I either buy a complete truck to part out or pull myself from someone parting out a truck.

For $1800 I got a 6.0 truck that was rear ended, once parted out it ended up costing me $600 for the engine.

Another time I found a guy parting out a Denali Yukon and he wanted $1200 for the engine and trans, I offered to go to his place and remove the engine and trans and he agreed to $800 with me doing the work. Sold the trans for $500 and had a $300 6.0.

Both engines I cleaned up, added a sloppy stage two eBay cam, gaskets, trunnion upgrade and paint then sold for a large profit.

Then using the profits I bought a $300 5.3, added forged rods and pistons, added a GT-45 turbo

So I do get your points, and you aren’t wrong there are many ways to reach the same goal. I’m currently on the lookout for the right L-96 6.0 and 6L trans deal, that’s a great combo especially with boost!

 

[NickTransmissions]

I’ve never had an issue finding 6.0 for low cost. I either buy a complete truck to part out or pull myself from someone parting out a truck.

For $1800 I got a 6.0 truck that was rear ended, once parted out it ended up costing me $600 for the engine.

Another time I found a guy parting out a Denali Yukon and he wanted $1200 for the engine and trans, I offered to go to his place and remove the engine and trans and he agreed to $800 with me doing the work. Sold the trans for $500 and had a $300 6.0.

Both engines I cleaned up, added a sloppy stage two eBay cam, gaskets, trunnion upgrade and paint then sold for a large profit.

Then using the profits I bought a $300 5.3, added forged rods and pistons, added a GT-45 turbo

So I do get your points, and you aren’t wrong there are many ways to reach the same goal. I’m currently on the lookout for the right L-96 6.0 and 6L trans deal, that’s a great combo especially with boost!

The 2012+ 6L80s and 90s have numerous updates installed from GM to address pattern failures/high warranty claims that plagued the 2006-2011 units. They still had their warts but not nearly as many as those prior vintages.

For anyone doing a retro involving a 6L80/90, the one thing I'd do is replace the factory torque converter with one that features a .050-.070 thick high energy converter clutch...The factory woven-style clutches are .022" inches thick and fail frequently, especially in HD and HP applications.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

I actually don't like the 6l, the first gear is way too low and it just creeps off the line, then it feels like it takes around a whole second to shift to second and actually go forward.

My point was that Gen V stuff is starting to become relatively cheap compared to a 6.0 not that the 6l is a great transmission.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

The 2012+ 6L80s and 90s have numerous updates installed from GM to address pattern failures/high warranty claims that plagued the 2006-2011 units. They still had their warts but not nearly as many as those prior vintages.

For anyone doing a retro involving a 6L80/90, the one thing I'd do is replace the factory torque converter with one that features a .050-.070 thick high energy converter clutch...The factory woven-style clutches are .022" inches thick and fail frequently, especially in HD and HP applications.

Absolutely, I go to a high end converter before the originals fail. And instead of a high $ rebuild I have a spare on the shelf. These are strong trans and the gearing is incredible.

I do respect and appreciate your teachings on the inner workings of these trans. For those on a budget the Th-400 is the best bet, 80E if it’s warranted… 60E if not beating on it. But for someone who doesn’t mind spending some $ the 6L is a better trans.