How much HorsePower would all these mods equal on a stock 5.7 vortec?

[Justin S]

CAI, spacer and muffler all together might get you 5hp. The turbo and cam would need more info.

 

[Nathaniel2g]

CAI, spacer and muffler all together might get you 5hp. The turbo and cam would need more info.

According to K&N their CAI gets you 9.48hp more on these trucks alone.

 

[df2x4]

According to K&N their CAI gets you 9.48hp more on these trucks alone.

I wouldn't put too much stock in that dyno number. Like I said in this same thread over a year ago, the K&N FIPK kits do not draw cold air at all. They pull warm air straight from the engine compartment. The stock intake flows plenty for these engines and actually draws outside air like it's supposed to.

I'm willing to bet that swapping intakes was not the only thing they did between tests to reach those numbers.

 

[slowburb]

I wonder how they calculate a hundredth of a horsepower.

 

[Nathaniel2g]

I wouldn't put too much stock in that dyno number. Like I said in this same thread over a year ago, the K&N FIPK kits do not draw cold air at all. They pull warm air straight from the engine compartment. The stock intake flows plenty for these engines and actually draws outside air like it's supposed to.

I'm willing to bet that swapping intakes was not the only thing they did between tests to reach those numbers.

I'm not arguing. Just saying that those numbers are what is advertised by K&N.

 

[michael hurd]

Literally none, unless you have a correct 2-3 bar map sensor and someone who can tune it, as well as all sorts of other supporting modifications.

Turbo charging can make more power than stock. 15 psi of boost would theoretically double the power output, but that will exceed what the stock injectors can flow.

4-5 psi of boost would be a realistic number, and when tuned correctly on an otherwise stock engine you might pick up around 85 hp. At that power level, the injectors won't be at 100% duty cycle at full load.

You don't need to change the camshaft if you are using forced induction. The stock camshaft is quite adequate.

Alternately, you can avoid the expense of fabricating brackets, pipes, and all sorts of other needed modifications ( oil supply / drain for the turbo etc ) by making that 85 hp in other ways.

A mild camshaft, long tube headers, with a high flow catalyst will do wonders for you. Getting an Autocal tune from someone like Blackbear performance or MJE would be more cost effective and will also remove the stock torque management built into the software from the OE for both the engine and transmission.

 

[slowburb]

There's always this:

http://www.wynjammer.com/GM_Full_Size_Vortec.html

 

[df2x4]

There's always this:

http://www.wynjammer.com/GM_Full_Size_Vortec.html

I've been talking myself in and out of one of their 4.3L kits for years now. I'm not sure if I should be proud of myself for always realizing how dumb I am before I buy it, or disappointed in myself because I always end up considering it again later.

 

[slowburb]

I've been talking myself in and out of one of their 4.3L kits for years now. I'm not sure if I should be proud of myself for always realizing how dumb I am before I buy it, or disappointed in myself because I always end up considering it again later.

I hear you. I was very close to buying one of these with all the extras for my Suburban. I decided against it, suspending the concept until my rig is out of daily driver duty.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Minus 25 horsepowers...?

Just a guess.

What color are the head lights? Are they H.I D.? That makes a ton of difference, believe it or not.
I suppose if you had black junkyard rims AND LED taillights it might only be minus 10 horse or so, at W.O T.

What you REALLY need is the Garret from a 7.4L and a SUPER T10, not just a regular Flow.