How do you know if your truck originally had keyless entry?

[98_k1500]

Yes, your truck can be programmed for any remote. I'm not sure if there are any differences in the square/rounded remotes, but if you have the right style remote for your truck it will work. Look up the program instructions if your truck is a 96+, the obd2 trucks program a little differently, still with the dlc tho.

 

[grampadirt]

Meant for a '99 Burb but yours should be similar.

ALLDATAdiy says...........


If they key is in the ON position during the programming procedure, the horn chirp will be disabled, it the key is in the OFF position, the horn chirp will be enabled. The horn will chirp when the lock button is pressed two times.

When reprogramming the remote control door lock receiver, All transmitters must be programmed at this time in order for the transmitters to operate the vehicle. Transmitters not programed at this time will not work and the procedure will have to be redone with all the transmitters.

Ground pin 4 to pin 8 of the data link connector (DLC). The receiver will respond by locking and unlocking the doors, and activating the liftgate window release (it equipped) within 2 seconds .
Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously on the first transmitter to be programmed until the locks cycle (approximately 10 seconds ).
Repeat step 2 for up to four total transmitters to be programmed (it available). The receiver will respond by locking and unlocking the doors and activating the liftgate window release (if equipped) within 2 seconds .
Remove the ground applied to the DLC.
Lock and unlock the doors in order to verity the transmitter operation.
Activate the rear window release in order to verify the transmitter operation.


Worth a try.

 

[98_k1500]

Meant for a '99 Burb but yours should be similar.

ALLDATAdiy says...........


If they key is in the ON position during the programming procedure, the horn chirp will be disabled, it the key is in the OFF position, the horn chirp will be enabled. The horn will chirp when the lock button is pressed two times.

When reprogramming the remote control door lock receiver, All transmitters must be programmed at this time in order for the transmitters to operate the vehicle. Transmitters not programed at this time will not work and the procedure will have to be redone with all the transmitters.

Ground pin 4 to pin 8 of the data link connector (DLC). The receiver will respond by locking and unlocking the doors, and activating the liftgate window release (it equipped) within 2 seconds .
Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously on the first transmitter to be programmed until the locks cycle (approximately 10 seconds ).
Repeat step 2 for up to four total transmitters to be programmed (it available). The receiver will respond by locking and unlocking the doors and activating the liftgate window release (if equipped) within 2 seconds .
Remove the ground applied to the DLC.
Lock and unlock the doors in order to verity the transmitter operation.
Activate the rear window release in order to verify the transmitter operation.


Worth a try.

This is the correct program procedure for the OBD2 trucks.

 

[BigandTall]

I programmed the remote for my 95 by running a small piece of wire from pin "G"(first pin,bottom row) to ground. This caused the locks to cycle after about 2 seconds. While still holding the wire to ground, I pressed both the lock and the unlock buttons on my new remote at the same time. This caused the locks to cycle once more. I removed the wire from pin G and then pressed the lock button on my remote to test. It did in fact work.

With my truck being '95 and OBD1, the method for the OBD2 trucks wouldn't work since the connectors are different under dash.

 

[77Concours]

Interesting to see that it was more unusual than not. My '95 had a lot of high optioned stuff in it according to a VIN check done by Darkrider here on the site. Wish I would have kept it for all those rare options.

 

[jtlichty]

So if your truck doesn't have the AU0 code is there anyway to get factory keyless entry installed at all?

 

[great white]

So if your truck doesn't have the AU0 code is there anyway to get factory keyless entry installed at all?

I *think* the problem is the two door trucks are reverse polarity lock actuators ("Type C" in installer speak). The 4 door Burbs and RKE factory trucks are regular polarity (Type A), which means you can't just plug in the module and grab a couple fobs.

Let me see if I can look up that info again, I might have it backwards. I went through this on the last remote start/alarm install I did but can't exactly remember which was which...

Yup, it's what I though: With Factory keyless - positive, W/O keyless - negative.

Not sure if you could make it work with swapping wires around or if simply installing the module would change it around. I'd have to get deep down into wiring diagrams to suss that out.

Have a look up under your dash at the steering column and if the connector is there then installing the module and a couple fobs might work. But without tracing it out on a diagram first be prepared for it not to work. Or worst case scenario: you'll let the magic smoke out and nothing will work.

 

[jtlichty]

I *think* the problem is the two door trucks are reverse polarity lock actuators ("Type C" in installer speak). The 4 door Burbs and RKE factory trucks are regular polarity (Type A), which means you can't just plug in the module and grab a couple fobs.

Let me see if I can look up that info again, I might have it backwards. I went through this on the last remote start/alarm install I did but can't exactly remember which was which...

Ok thanks. Let me know what you come up with. I really wish I could get keyless entry and I don't wanna go aftermarket if I don't absolutely have to.

 

[great white]

Ok thanks. Let me know what you come up with. I really wish I could get keyless entry and I don't wanna go aftermarket if I don't absolutely have to.

Had a quick look at my 98's wiring diagrams.

If you're a similar year, you're boned. Factory RKE won't work without changing out the whole door lock circuit harness, which is intergrated into the dash wiring harness IIRC.

Factory RKE sucks anyways.

Aftermarket is the more sensible option in both cost and hassle.

You're lucky to get 5-10 feet on a good day from factory RKE. Aftermarket is at least a couple hundred feet for even the dinkiest/cheapest of units. It's one of the reasons I went aftermarket.

My aftermarket one is supposed to work a mile away, but I've only tried it from up the street. I'm just happy that I can lock the truck from inside the house now.

Nice bonus is the remote start function. Great to give a diesel a few minute run the glow cycle, start and settle out while you're walking across the parking lot.

I didn't install all the alarm functions, only the dome light trigger. I left out the shock sensor since that's the troublesome part that sets it off in the middle of the night and whatnot. It only triggers if someone opens the door, like a factory alarm.

Total cost?

50 bucks and a couple days lazy work in the garage over xmas holidays.

 

[thz71]

Hes right my factory keyless sucks