Hesitation completey at a loss

[Jksconny]

Is this a 350 or a 454?

350 so clean you could eat off it

 

[Jksconny]

I ain't no mechanical surgeon, but to me, this sounds like a fuel delivery issue.
Maybe take the fuel lines off the back of the throttle body, take the fuel filter off and disconnect the return line to the tank and shoot some compressed air through the lines. Could be some sort of blockage somewhere in the system.
How does the spray pattern from the injectors look? At idle and revving it up.
Oh....does it only do this when driving, or even in park/neutral?

I put fuel pressure gauge on it while getting it to hesitate hoping that for sure I’d see change nope sits pretty at 14 load or idle that’s were she sits. And it idles good, when you first start it up it has a very very small out of rythum sound but goes away fast . And it only does this with slight load. Idles great you can snap the throttle and crisp and clean off idle.

 

[Komet]

I mean, this is literally the kind of problem you need a datalog to solve. It would be valuable to see what all the sensors are doing at the time of the hesitation.

 

[Jksconny]

I mean, this is literally the kind of problem you need a datalog to solve. It would be valuable to see what all the sensors are doing at the time of the hesitation.

My mt 2500 shows that I’m within range of sensor outputs being good…. Or are you saying that data logging is going to be better? How hard is it really to do. I had tried before I bought my SNAP-ON scanner and the set up seemed confusing. I am not computer savvy unfortunately. Please advise

 

[Keeper]

Here's another thread to look thru... it's vortec not tbi, but...

www.gmt400.com/threads/stumbles-hesitates-while-accelerating-vortec.61264/#post-1352881

 

[Komet]

My mt 2500 shows that I’m within range of sensor outputs being good…. Or are you saying that data logging is going to be better? How hard is it really to do. I had tried before I bought my SNAP-ON scanner and the set up seemed confusing. I am not computer savvy unfortunately. Please advise

I'm saying it might be easier to understand what's happening by looking at all the sensors over time while the stumble is occurring to see why it's making a decision that produces an improper result. If that's NOT happening, then it must be a malfunctioning part, but it's relatively impossible to know that without confirming on the data side.

I used a functionally identical cable to this:

BoostedNW ALDL 12 pin GM datalogger

This is for any pre-1995 (OBD1) GM vehicle. Everything except the 1995 LT1. You should be able to datalog all of them, and reflash the 94 LT1 as well. This item can be used with TunerPro RT, TTS Datamaster, TunerCat reflash for LT1, WinALDL, and EFI Live

boostednw.com

and I hooked it up to my phone using a USB-A to USB-C adapter and the ALDLDroid app. There are several software options that can datalog using a PC. Labeling yourself as not computer savvy is a hurdle you place in front of yourself to frame the excuse that prevents you from solving your problem.

Normally I'd recommend poking around and doing some diagnostics, but considering you've refreshed the entire top end over a period of years, either something you believe to be true is not true, or it's time to take a deeper dive than any one instantaneous sensor read can provide. In my opinion.

 

[Jksconny]

I'm saying it might be easier to understand what's happening by looking at all the sensors over time while the stumble is occurring to see why it's making a decision that produces an improper result. If that's NOT happening, then it must be a malfunctioning part, but it's relatively impossible to know that without confirming on the data side.

I used a functionally identical cable to this:

BoostedNW ALDL 12 pin GM datalogger

This is for any pre-1995 (OBD1) GM vehicle. Everything except the 1995 LT1. You should be able to datalog all of them, and reflash the 94 LT1 as well. This item can be used with TunerPro RT, TTS Datamaster, TunerCat reflash for LT1, WinALDL, and EFI Live

boostednw.com

and I hooked it up to my phone using a USB-A to USB-C adapter and the ALDLDroid app. There are several software options that can datalog using a PC. Labeling yourself as not computer savvy is a hurdle you place in front of yourself to frame the excuse that prevents you from solving your problem.

Normally I'd recommend poking around and doing some diagnostics, but considering you've refreshed the entire top end over a period of years, either something you believe to be true is not true, or it's time to take a deeper dive than any one instantaneous sensor read can provide. In my opinion.

Well I like your logic, what would be the simplest data logging to get in your opinion? I have an I phone and I don’t think they have a aldl app last I checked.

 

[Jksconny]

Tv cable set perfect, the guy that built the tranny prefers to take them in and out himself instead of deliverd for such reasons like tv cable and such. Fuel filter just replaced last week no change. Fuel pump is a 1996 vortec 155 lph and put in 2 years ago along with new tank, also my injectors have been cleaned and checked by a professional. All the grounds have been cleaned the ones from engine to cab have been beefed up. I have not checked transmission fluid, I never seen it loose any or slip is main reason. I will check tomorrow and report back. Now that you mentioned it it does act like a tranny that’s low. But also feels strong. I can override the hesitation by putting the hammer down shell snap out and come clean. Also when you hold foot steady when it’s hesitating I’m waiting for it just to fall right down on her face but when she gets a hair from stalling out completely she’ll buck up and hit Like 8 day clock…. Then fall again. Beyond so far beyond frustration. Worse part about it is there suppose to be a simple platform.

Trans fluid is very good shape

 

[Komet]

Well I like your logic, what would be the simplest data logging to get in your opinion? I have an I phone and I don’t think they have a aldl app last I checked.

Android phone and ALDLDroid ($20) might be the simplest in the sense that you don't have to mess with COM drivers in Windows.

I had success datalogging using the free trial of Tunercat once. I would say the majority of people use Tunerpro so a Windows PC with Tunerpro might be the most commonly public supported path but I never used it.

 

[RichLo]

Wow, you have done EVERYTHING right so far!

In case I missed it, have you checked for intake manifold vacuum leaks? Usually that's an idle issue but with everything else new or substituted for known good items your getting low on options.

How about the vacuum brake booster? Could be cracked and sucking air or brake fluid at a certain manifold pressure/volume. Just thinking outside the box here.