Free to me GMC 2500

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Dantheman1540

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Went down and cleaned my shop up a bit before work and drove the dirt road way in the gmc. I’ve got close to 30miles on it so far with no issues, I think that warrants getting a spare set of keys made.

Anyway decided I’d see how bad this 4l80 first gear is and it impressed me! 1st gear and foot brake and it had no issues activating the g80 and digging two holes. I honestly expected it to just make noise and heat up the torque converter. Especially with half the gas in the tank being 5 years old. The G80 impressed me too, both tires spun from the get go and didn’t let up until I did. Much better than the G80 in my Tahoe which works about as often as people in my generation. (Not often)

However somewhere between the hole digging and some rough spots on the dirt road (which I just added to). The interior door handle rod jumped out of its plastic retainer rendering the interior driver handle useless. Guess my rod bending trick wasn’t enough and I’ll have to buy new plastic retainer thingys.
 

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HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
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Went down and cleaned my shop up a bit before work and drove the dirt road way in the gmc. I’ve got close to 30miles on it so far with no issues, I think that warrants getting a spare set of keys made.

Anyway decided I’d see how bad this 4l80 first gear is and it impressed me! 1st gear and foot brake and it had no issues activating the g80 and digging two holes. I honestly expected it to just make noise and heat up the torque converter. Especially with half the gas in the tank being 5 years old. The G80 impressed me too, both tires spun from the get go and didn’t let up until I did. Much better than the G80 in my Tahoe which works about as often as people in my generation. (Not often)

However somewhere between the hole digging and some rough spots on the dirt road (which I just added to). The interior door handle rod jumped out of its plastic retainer rendering the interior driver handle useless. Guess my rod bending trick wasn’t enough and I’ll have to buy new plastic retainer thingys.
I guess you can buy those rod retainer clips separately...I've had new ones in the inside handle assembly when I replaced them. While you're in the door, be sure and lube everything up; I use spray white lithium grease and it works well(but is a bit messy!). There are two white clips in the panel the handle and linkages are attached to, that are guides for the link rods for the pull handle and lock slider. Those can be removed by turning them 90°(once the rod itself is popped out) and then they pop out. These will appreciate some lube too and the link rods need it for a couple inches either side of the clips, for smoother action.
 

Dantheman1540

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I guess you can buy those rod retainer clips separately...I've had new ones in the inside handle assembly when I replaced them. While you're in the door, be sure and lube everything up; I use spray white lithium grease and it works well(but is a bit messy!). There are two white clips in the panel the handle and linkages are attached to, that are guides for the link rods for the pull handle and lock slider. Those can be removed by turning them 90°(once the rod itself is popped out) and then they pop out. These will appreciate some lube too and the link rods need it for a couple inches either side of the clips, for smoother action.

I hadn’t even considered lubing them actually, I shall do that!
 

Dantheman1540

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Got the new Cunningham machine door pins and arms in. However, I’m struggling and getting the springs back in, the spring tool CM sells straight up does not compress it enough by about a 1/4”. I’m gonna try the zip tie and vice technique to get it compressed 100%.

Also didn’t realize the door strikers have a nut on the inside of the door. I was hoping to not have to pull all the extended cab plastics off but I have to now.
 

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Dantheman1540

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Nice wax job, reflecting the ratchet wrench, in the 2nd pic.
lol I actually waxed everybody but this one Sunday. In fact I’ve never waxed this one, but it’s very evident it’s been garage kept and taken care of!

I realized I made a big error last week and lost my only key to the truck. The cheap carabiner broke so I put the key in my pocket vowing to go to Ace and get a duplicate or 5 made and new key ring. Then I went to work and it disappeared. Not sure wtf I’m gonna do now lol
 

HotWheelsBurban

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lol I actually waxed everybody but this one Sunday. In fact I’ve never waxed this one, but it’s very evident it’s been garage kept and taken care of!

I realized I made a big error last week and lost my only key to the truck. The cheap carabiner broke so I put the key in my pocket vowing to go to Ace and get a duplicate or 5 made and new key ring. Then I went to work and it disappeared. Not sure wtf I’m gonna do now lol
A mobile locksmith can make a key to the truck as long as they're at the truck. Since it's not an electronic key it'll be a lot cheaper (lost the keys to the stupid Phord a few years ago and had to pay $85 to get a new one for the ignition, cause it will not start without the electronic key).
 

HotrodZ06

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You should be able to go to your local GM dealer and get them to pull the key code, provided its still the original lock cylinder. I had them pull mine on the 99 Suburban I got a few months ago. Will probably need proof of ownership and ID but a lot of locksmiths are asking for that now days.
 

HotrodZ06

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A mobile locksmith can make a key to the truck as long as they're at the truck. Since it's not an electronic key it'll be a lot cheaper (lost the keys to the stupid Phord a few years ago and had to pay $85 to get a new one for the ignition, cause it will not start without the electronic key).
Don't lose one for a ford now, they charge $150 to program keys plus the cost of the key at the dealer here.
 
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