First real test drive today, after V8 swap.

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DeCaff2007

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That's an accumulated number since the start of logging. A lot of times we see a bunch of knocks at startup. I usually start the enging before I start the data log, unless there's something I'm looking for during cranking.


If you're looking at MAP, I know but, that's the way everything is calculated in the .bin - You can right click on any of the monitors and select metric or US. In this case, you can set it to show vacuum in inches too.

Yeah, I don't care for the "Day Dash" format either, I usually click on the box in the upper left of the screen and select "Digital Dash" instead. Some masks don't offer that but the '7747 one has been "Hacked" more than any others, to display more stuff.


Yeah cripes I'm lucky I even got as far as I did with that ridiculous setup. Let's a take a modern day laptop and teach it to talk to a 34 year old EPROM, then pretend to not get confused when nothing is comprehensible.

SORRY, but I'm doing my best here with something that I just don't understand.
 

DeCaff2007

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I would remove thermostat and verify it opens, can boil a pot of water on the stove and test it. Also, the rad needs to get pulled and taken to a radiator shop. at least get it flowed and pressure tested. is the fan clutch original? probably time for one of those too...

glad you got turnpro working, definitely a step in the right direction.

To Hell with that. I'll just mount the NIB radiator. I believe I had explained earlier why I DIDN'T do that in the first place.

Fan clutch is brandy spanking new.
 

Schurkey

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How so? They are definitely SBC heads and bolt right on (except for the two intake bolts).
Number One reason you bought the wrong heads for the application: The bolt pattern on the intake gasket face has two holes at the wrong angle.

besides being angled-plug heads, why are they wrong for the application?
Number two reason you bought the wrong heads for the application: you bought angle-plug heads when intending to use headers that won't readily accept angled spark plugs.

These heads are not defective--that we know of. They are incorrect for the application, although you've gone out of your way to make them work anyway.

I don't actually expect that these heads are genuinely defective. But I'll hold my judgement until after we figure out why your truck runs so crappy.
MAYBE we discover a REAL problem with them. (But probably not.)

Fan clutch is brandy spanking new.
Which does not guarantee that it's not defective. Test it and verify.
 

DeCaff2007

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Number two reason you bought the wrong heads for the application: you bought angle-plug heads when intending to use headers that won't readily accept angled spark plugs.

Well, yes. That was because at the time, I didn't know what "angle-plug" meant. A quick lying, spying google search would have helped immensely at that time. #stubbornDeCaff.

Which does not guarantee that it's not defective. Test it and verify.

How does one do that?
 

Schurkey

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When the engine is hot the fan should be moving a lot of air. When it's cold, not so much. Don't stick your fingers in it.
Well, more completely:

Engine starting up from cold. Open the hood, see how the fan is blowing at (fast) idle. There seems to be a lot of air movement, and noise. The engine warms up--maybe with some encouragement from some cardboard temporarily placed in front of the radiator. At some point the engine gets hot enough to engage the fan clutch--and that's going to take 170+ degree air coming off of the radiator warming the clutch, so 190+ degree coolant in the radiator. There is a sudden, dramatic increase in airflow and noise. Dorothy and Toto fly past. That's how you know the fan clutch engages--there's that sudden and dramatic increase in airflow and noise.
 
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HotWheelsBurban

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Well, more completely:

Engine starting up from cold. Open the hood, see how the fan is blowing at (fast) idle. There seems to be a lot of air movement, and noise. The engine warms up--maybe with some encouragement from some cardboard temporarily placed in front of the radiator. At some point the engine gets hot enough to engage the fan clutch--and that's going to take 170+ degree air coming off of the radiator warming the clutch, so 190+ degree coolant in the radiator. There is a sudden, dramatic increase in airflow and noise. Dorothy and Toto fly past. That's how you know the fan clutch engages--there's that sudden and dramatic increase in airflow and noise.
"Dorothy and Toto fly past"
Gotta love it!
 
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