Engine Poll

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Wagonbacker9

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-Rebuilt L31 is around $1,500
-383 with a truck cam will run you around $2,000 if you carefully shop around
-From what I've priced out, LSx is at least $3,000 to get running right if you shop around carefully

I fully intend to have my LSx swap installed for $1500... I think your prices are WAY off on all fronts though. Maybe if you just buy everything off the shelf and but a complete pullout, new accessories, etc... the LS swap would come up to that, but thats FAR from a bottom line.

If the deals I'm working on go through, I'll have a running 5.3l for a total of $550 (5.3 w/ cracked heads for $200, and low mileage LS1 heads, plus some mill work to bring the CR back up and make sure they're flat, gaskets and new head bolts, used ECU and reworked harness cost me $150) That leaves me a grand for ancillary parts and a transmission.
 
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DGA1

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I fully intend to have my LSx swap installed for $1500... I think your prices are WAY off on all fronts though. Maybe if you just buy everything off the shelf and but a complete pullout, new accessories, etc... the LS swap would come up to that, but thats FAR from a bottom line.

If the deals I'm working on go through, I'll have a running 5.3l for a total of $550 (5.3 w/ cracked heads for $200, and low mileage LS1 heads, plus some mill work to bring the CR back up and make sure they're flat, gaskets and new head bolts, used ECU and reworked harness cost me $150) That leaves me a grand for ancillary parts and a transmission.

Not so much...and I'm not bringing it up to argue, just a point of view. A rebuilt L31 can easily run you $1,500, a new one from GM 1,900-2,300. A 383 with all the machine work, new reciprocating parts, fully rebuilt heads, cam...etc around $2,000...a new GM one is about 5,000!!! A LSx which I've seen for easy 3Gs to get running on a mid-mileage motor.

That is not to say that you can't go cheaper, like you point out. There are multiple ways to skin a cat and with robustness of the small block tons of ways to build any one of them.

I've mainly researched the 383, with all new internal parts, plus heads, machine work, about $2,000 is what I end up with. Can you go cheaper? You bet! My basis: new parts so that I would not have to crack the engine open till another 150,000 miles.
 

DGA1

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my motor is spider injection not tbi and right now my gas is killing me @ 12 city 15.8 HWY

What gears are you running? Tire size? Recent tune up.

I can tell you that I'm doing better than that on a K1500, long box, extra cab, 3.42 gears, 5.7, and a 4L60E.
 

koolademan22

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What gears are you running? Tire size? Recent tune up.

I can tell you that I'm doing better than that on a K1500, long box, extra cab, 3.42 gears, 5.7, and a 4L60E.


not sure on the gears 255 70R15's did a tune up last month
 

Wagonbacker9

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not sure on the gears 255 70R15's did a tune up last month

Look in the glove box for the RPO code.. something that begins in "GT" or "GU" with a number after it (GT4 and GU6 are the 2 most likely) will tell you your ratio.
 

DRAGGIN95

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GQ1 -- AXLE REAR, STD RATIO
GT4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO
GT5 -- AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO
GU4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
GU5 -- AXLE REAR, 3.23 RATIO
GU6 -- AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO
G80 -- AXLE REAR, LIMITED SLIP (POSITRACTION)

HC4 -- AXLE REAR, 4.56 RATIO
 

koolademan22

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GQ1 -- AXLE REAR, STD RATIO
GT4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO
GT5 -- AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO
GU4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
GU5 -- AXLE REAR, 3.23 RATIO
GU6 -- AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO
G80 -- AXLE REAR, LIMITED SLIP (POSITRACTION)

HC4 -- AXLE REAR, 4.56 RATIO

i have 3.42 gears
 
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