Do GMT400's typically have crappy brakes, or is it just mine.

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DGA1

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Yeah these trucks brakes are mush. I've upgraded mine to 1-ton setup w/stainless lines, minus the FF-14 bolt drums (I have the SF-14 bolt axle and drums on mine). Mushiness is still there, but it will stop with authority once you get through the first couple of inches of near nothing. Even with more than 3,000 lbs of dirt in the back, the truck stopped very well...once you get through the mush that is. :)

You can easily adjust your rear drums...turn out the adjusters till they drag a little bit and you are set. Also if your adjusters are in good shape, you can drive in reverse, hit the brakes hard, and the drums "should" adjust themselves out to where they need be. I'm told this does not work at times on the 10-bolt axle drums due to the location of the adjuster.
 

AbramF_496

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idid that on my 14-bolt SF right after i replaced my read drum brakes i think it worked pretty good just dont forget to grease it and twist both sides off when u do the brake job they are probably siezed!
 

MOBS

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Alot of the 10-bolt backing plates don't have the adjuster openings. Everytime I've pulled the drums on models like that, the adjuster doesn't have the old sprocket shaped adjuster wheel, instead it's shaped like the edge of a quarter, like a mini gear almost. Sucks to have to remove to adjust them....think I'll look into changing adjusters out to old school sprocket shaped wheel.
 

RHamill

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Abram brings up an excellent point, you must lube the slides with some silicone every time you do a brake job, if your truck pulls like hell to one side when you hit the brakes, you better start thinking about doing a brake adjustment soon before you warp your rotors up and ruin 1 set of pads. I recommend carquest premium rotors and pads, dont get cheapys then complain about your brakes being ****, thats my motto.

Not saying carquest stuff is THE BEST EVER either.
 

hefftone

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What causes the brake light to come on in these trucks. Mine did it when I drove to emmissions testing. Man it was scary as ****. Felt like stopping the Titanic. It comes on intermittently and goes off. The brakes pump up to decent pedal feel, but Tue pedal comes up so slow, that pumping is ineffective give unless you are planning to stop in the next 1/8th mile.
I know some cars the light comes on based on fluid level. Don't k.ow about these.
Trying to get a root cause before I just start taking **** apart.

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1997chevydriver

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What causes the brake light to come on in these trucks. Mine did it when I drove to emmissions testing. Man it was scary as ****. Felt like stopping the Titanic. It comes on intermittently and goes off. The brakes pump up to decent pedal feel, but Tue pedal comes up so slow, that pumping is ineffective give unless you are planning to stop in the next 1/8th mile.
I know some cars the light comes on based on fluid level. Don't k.ow about these.
Trying to get a root cause before I just start taking **** apart.

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9/10 times when the light comes on is when you have lost pressure in front or rear lines which usually consists of a leak and low or no fluid

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MOBS

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Yeah, I got a bad seal where driver's front line attaches to caliper, when it does decide to leak, the pedal will go to the floor....when it hits the floor is when light comes on....the warning system for the brakes is a bit too late if I say so myself :crazy:

No I'm not driving it, just waiting on someone to tell me what length the skyjacker front hoses are so I know if they're long enough....stock lines are 26.5".
 

hefftone

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Thing that has me boggled is that the fluid level is not low. Since no fluid is getting out of the system there must be some sort of fail to pressurize. Either in he MC and/or really bad adjustment in the rears. Definitely overdue for a fluid change.
I agree the brake light does come on a bit late. Perhaps it should say "tuck and roll" instead.

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