Did my Transmission tech make a mistake?

[Travis_Culler]

So I just had this 700R4 rebuilt for my '88 SBC 350 2500. I went to slide the Yoke in for the drive shaft, and I was bumping into something at 2" depth on my Yoke. So I thought I either have a burr on a shaft spline, or maybe im catching the edge of the bushing. Anyway, I pull the Tail housing off, and this sleeve has been inserted on the front splines. The sleeve is flared toward the rear, and the end of my yoke seats perfectly into the flare. But my yoke is nowhere near deep enough. Do I need to remove this sleeve and replace it with a shorter one or something?

Im not a seasoned mechanic and Im definitely not experienced in anything transmission related. Can somebody help me out here? Ive attached pictures of the Yoke seated to the sleeve with the tail housing on, and a picture of the output shaft.

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[NickTransmissions]

The sleeve is an oil slinger of sorts and should be installed all the way forward against the speedometer gear. If it's not, simply tap it forward unti it is. Yoke should then slide in to the proper extent.

 

[Travis_Culler]

The sleeve is an oil slinger of sorts and should be installed all the way forward against the speedometer gear. If it's not, simply tap it forward unti it is. Yoke should then slide in to the proper extent.

Thanks Nick. I didn't realize it was sitting slightly cockeyed so after straightening it out, it slid right in. Appreciate the help!

 

[NickTransmissions]

Thanks Nick. I didn't realize it was sitting slightly cockeyed so after straightening it out, it slid right in. Appreciate the help!

You're welcome, Travis. Let us know how it shifts and such...

 

[Travis_Culler]

You're welcome, Travis. Let us know how it shifts and such...

I wasnt able to drive it yesterday, I need to run to the hardware store and grab a throttle cable end clamp. My TV cable doesnt have enough tension so I'm going to correct that before my initial test drive.

The loose TV cable is actually the reason I had to get the transmission rebuilt to begin with so Im treading VERY carefully with it this time around lol. In September, I replaced all engine seals from the oil pan to the TBI and everything in between. Drove the truck for about a week before the transmission was toast. Im hoping to get a little more life out of it with this fresh rebuild

 

[NickTransmissions]

I wasnt able to drive it yesterday, I need to run to the hardware store and grab a throttle cable end clamp. My TV cable doesnt have enough tension so I'm going to correct that before my initial test drive.

The loose TV cable is actually the reason I had to get the transmission rebuilt to begin with so Im treading VERY carefully with it this time around lol. In September, I replaced all engine seals from the oil pan to the TBI and everything in between. Drove the truck for about a week before the transmission was toast. Im hoping to get a little more life out of it with this fresh rebuild

Make sure you use a transmission pressure gauge to confirm your TV cable geometry set up and adjustments are good...Screw it into the pressure test port on the driver side of the case just to the rear of the bell housing area (7/16" socket). Then fire it up and take readings at min TV and full TV...

Min TV, your pressures should be as follows, assuming stock pump valving/pressure regulation:

P, N, D, D3: 54-70 PSI
Reverse: 90-120 PSI
Manual 2nd and 1st: 135-180 PSI

Full TV, your pressures should be as follows,

P,N,D,D3: 120-150 PSI
Reverse: 140-180 PSI
Manual 2nd and 1st: same as at min TV

Pressures will be a little higher at min and/or full TV if you have installed a larger ratio boost valve and higher pressure PR spring.

You can purchase transmission pressure gauges online for around $30-$50 or so...
Here's more information

 

[Travis_Culler]

Make sure you use a transmission pressure gauge to confirm your TV cable geometry set up and adjustments are good...Screw it into the pressure test port on the driver side of the case just to the rear of the bell housing area (7/16" socket). Then fire it up and take readings at min TV and full TV...

Min TV, your pressures should be as follows, assuming stock pump valving/pressure regulation:

P, N, D, D3: 54-70 PSI
Reverse: 90-120 PSI
Manual 2nd and 1st: 135-180 PSI

Full TV, your pressures should be as follows,

P,N,D,D3: 120-150 PSI
Reverse: 140-180 PSI
Manual 2nd and 1st: same as at min TV

Pressures will be a little higher at min and/or full TV if you have installed a larger ratio boost valve and higher pressure PR spring.

You can purchase transmission pressure gauges online for around $30-$50 or so...
Here's more information

Awesome info. The past several days have been ~0°F here in Ohio, so with todays high reaching 20°, Today is the day to open up the garage door and let her run. I'm heading up to grab the pressure guages. I'll report back later

 

[Travis_Culler]

Make sure you use a transmission pressure gauge to confirm your TV cable geometry set up and adjustments are good...Screw it into the pressure test port on the driver side of the case just to the rear of the bell housing area (7/16" socket). Then fire it up and take readings at min TV and full TV...

Min TV, your pressures should be as follows, assuming stock pump valving/pressure regulation:

P, N, D, D3: 54-70 PSI
Reverse: 90-120 PSI
Manual 2nd and 1st: 135-180 PSI

Full TV, your pressures should be as follows,

P,N,D,D3: 120-150 PSI
Reverse: 140-180 PSI
Manual 2nd and 1st: same as at min TV

Pressures will be a little higher at min and/or full TV if you have installed a larger ratio boost valve and higher pressure PR spring.

You can purchase transmission pressure gauges online for around $30-$50 or so...
Here's more information

Okay Nick I think Im in a pretty good standing here but I wanted to double check something with you.

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So Here are the readings I came up with. They align well with the pressures listed in the PDF file you attached, but not with the readings you listed. Not my Min. TV readings anyway. So would you say its safe to assume my rebuilder added the modifications you listed above? Its odd because my shifting feels slow and early but then again, I have no tachometer to keep track of the shift points. Plus Im running open headers so, everything about this trucks performance is kinda just "dumping" with no back pressure so maybe Im over analyzing that side of things.

Also. I dont think Im able to check the Manual 1 & 2 pressure because my shift linkage is bumping into the line I have conncted above the selector shaft.

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But with the other readings seeming to be in decent standing, I'd assume overall Im pretty close to where I need to be anyway?

 

[NickTransmissions]

Okay Nick I think Im in a pretty good standing here but I wanted to double check something with you.

The pressures look good, thinking half inch boost valve and upgraded pr spring was installed as well as an upgraded TV boost spring (prob a transgo jr shift kit, which is what I used most of the time as well). I gave you typical stock readings with no hydraulic mods as a "floor" for acceptability at min TV. So anything more than that is fine, to an extent (100 psi at min tv, for example, would have been too much).

That said, seems as though the cable may need some more fine tuning if shifts are early and soft. Even a completely stock 700R4 shouldnt feel overly soft or early in shifts.

 

[Travis_Culler]

The pressures look good, thinking half inch boost valve and upgraded pr spring was installed as well as an upgraded TV boost spring (prob a transgo jr shift kit, which is what I used most of the time as well). I gave you typical stock readings with no hydraulic mods as a "floor" for acceptability at min TV. So anything more than that is fine, to an extent (100 psi at min tv, for example, would have been too much).

That said, seems as though the cable may need some more fine tuning if shifts are early and soft. Even a completely stock 700R4 shouldnt feel overly soft or early in shifts.

I'm glad you brought that up because that leads me to my next concern. I have my cable end clamp installed to where the TV cable is about as tight as i can make it, it seems. Since I have no tach, is there a speed range I can use as a reference for shift timing from 1-2, 2-3, & 3-4 instead?

My main concern is my 1-2 shift, It seems to be bumping into second gear under 10 mph