Dash removal and replacement

[east302]

I replaced the dash in my 1998 K1500 and thought I'd post a how-to. The steps below are from alldatadiy.com which, I think, mimics the factory service manual. I've added pictures to relevant parts as some of the steps are a little vague.

I'd really recommend getting a box of ziploc bags and putting the screws from each step in them. I labeled disconnected wiring with green masking tape, which makes it easier during re-installation so that you can easily spot any unconnected wiring harnesses.

Before disconnecting the battery, make sure you lower and slide the driver seat all the way down and back. That's the one thing that I really wished that I had done first.

Also, chock your tires as the shift linkage is removed when the steering column is removed.


Here are the alldata directions:

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The numbered steps below are from the alldata directions. My comments are in italics.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable(s).

2. Disable the SIR system:

• a. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead.
• b. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position.
• c. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
• d. Remove the AIR BAG Fuse from the IP fuse block.
• e. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the driver yellow 2-way connector located at the base of the steering column
• f. Disconnect the driver yellow 2-way connector located at the base of the steering column.
• g. Remove the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) from the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column
• h. Disconnect the passenger yellow 2-way connector located near the base of the steering column.

I didn't take a picture, but the airbag harnesses are near the steering column and pretty easy to spot. They're the yellow ones in the picture below:

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3. Remove the three relay center bolts from the underside of the wheel opening.

The Relay Center is on the driver side fender and held in place by three bolts going through the wheel well. You aren't removing the Relay Center...just unbolting it so that you can move it out of the way. If you can remove it, that might make things a little easier.

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4. Remove the bulkhead connector.

The white (top) part stays and is attached under the dash to the Convenience Center. There are two screws on the firewall that need to be removed. I've already removed one screw in the picture below. It's to the upper right of the white harness. The second one is diagonal to it and a little harder to reach. Remove both of those screws to allow the white harness to be pulled into the cab.

The black (lower) harness is attached with a torx bit to the Convenience Center. The red arrow points to where the screw head is. I used a T25 screwdriver, but don't know if a socket bit would have fit or not. Remove the torx screw and pry the black harness off.

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5. Remove the following components from the bulkhead connector:

What you're doing here is removing the harnesses that connect the white bulkhead connector to engine compartment components. The airbag and headlamp connectors are on the fender wall and easy to spot. The others are on the firewall kind of below the brake booster so they’re a little harder to reach. The wiring harness to both the wiper motor and cruise control on the firewall will need to be removed.

• a. The screws from the convenience center to the cowl
• b. The cruise control harness (if equipped)
• c. The forward lamp harness
• d. The SIR system harness
• e. The relay center

6. Remove the coolant reservoir.


Two bolts on the firewall.


7. Disconnect the antenna lead-in and the grommet.

Separate the antenna cable where it goes up to the antenna mast on the firewall.

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8. Remove the knee bolster.

There were three or four screws along the bottom. The top part clips on. You'll also remove the parking brake release handle (press in the two tabs and pull) and the brake cable that attaches to it. On that, twist and remove.

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9. Remove the steering shaft pinch bolt.

I wasn't sure which bolt they were referring to, so I removed the one in the cab.

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10. Remove the left and the right sill plate front screw.

11. Remove the left and the right hinge pillar trim panels.

These are just the door sill plates and the triangle piece that surrounds the hood release.

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12. Remove the brake release handle from the cable.


See step 8

13. Remove the reaction plate assembly.


This is the outer black piece. Four bolts.

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14. Remove the tie bar.


There are four bolts holding the tube in place.

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15. Remove the knee deflector bracket. Two screws. Tap it on the bottom and it’ll pop up and off.

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[east302]

Continued…

16. Disconnect the 8-way column connector.
17. Disconnect the 48-way connector retainer in order to access the two lower column nuts.

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Unscrew the bolt to separate the wiring harness.

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Remove two bolts holding the steering column in place. You might leave them on finger tight to hold the column up while you do the next steps as the column will drop down when they are removed.

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18. Disconnect the shift cable (Automatic transmission).

The shift cable is routed alongside the column. There's a metal bracket with a plastic clip in the photo below. Squeeze the tabs on the clip and push the black clip back towards the firewall to disengage it from the bracket. Make sure you've chocked your tires as you can shift the gears while messing with this cable. Adjacent to this is the shift-lock linkage which runs through a solenoid mounted on the column.

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To remove the shift linkage and the shift-lock linkage, pry them off the ball at the gearshift.

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19. Remove the two bolts at the lower end of the column. Remove the steering column from the vehicle.

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20. Remove the shift levers. This is for those with floor-mounted transfer case shifters or manual tranmissions.
a. Remove the transfer case knob by pulling the knob straight up. S4WD models must be in the 4-LO range.
b. Remove the manual transmission shift lever (if equipped).

21. Remove the front floor console, if necessary. I found it much easier to remove the floor console as it can hit the dashboard when you pivot it down. To remove, pull out the inside bin and remove the two bolts at the front of the console. Slide it forward to disengage the rear clips and remove from vehicle.


22. Remove the left and the right lower IP pivot bolts.

One bolt on the driver side, one on the passenger side.

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23. Remove the IP storage compartment door. Remove glovebox
24. Remove the IP storage compartment. Squeeze the compartment in order to release the compartment.

25. Remove the two IP attaching bolts through the storage compartment door.

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26. Remove the center support screw.

There are actually two. One near the cigarette lighter, one above the gas pedal.

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27. Remove the three IP upper support screws.

These are the three along the top at the windshield.

Remove two bolts from the passenger airbag bracket.

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28. Remove the IP from the front of the dash.

Pivot the panel down. In the photo, I had not removed the steering column so you can see how much easier it is when it is removed.

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29. Disconnect the park brake lever. I didn't have to remove this, but there are two or three bolts holding it in place.

 

[east302]

Continued…


30. Disconnect the following electrical connectors as necessary:
a. The sensing and diagnostic module (SDM)
b. The Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning module (HVACM)
c. The 22-way engine harness
d. The stoplamp switch
e. The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) calibrator module
f. The clutch or brake release switches
g. The electronic accelerator (Diesel)
h. The HVAC control cables (if equipped)

The plan here is to leave the wiring harness connected to the dashboard. You are unclipping everything that will keep the wiring harness connected to the vehicle. There aren't a lot, just take your time and label everything.

Three harnesses at the windshield:

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A wiring harness and purple wire connected to the Convenience Center...

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A blue wire going to the parking brake...

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A few connectors on the passenger side above the HVAC blower...

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The radio antenna is clipped to the back of the HVAC evaporator/heater housing...

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Wire going to the shift lock solenoid...

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I don't even remember what this was for, but the harness is above the steering column...

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31. Remove the IP from the vehicle.

This is where you need two people to remove the dash from the vehicle. I pulled the steering column before reinstalling the dash and really should have removed it first.

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From here, I transferred everything from the old dash to the new one.

Old dash

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Donor dash...

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[east302]

Continued...

My old dash pretty much fell apart when I pulled it from the truck. What were once small cracks quickly expanded. It's trashed...

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The remaining alldata instructions are for pulling the radio, HVAC, switches, etc. from the dash. You can pretty much wing it from here...

32. Remove the accessory switch(es) as necessary.
33. Remove the instrument cluster bezel. See: Service and Repair
34. Remove the headlamp switch.
35. Remove the HVAC control assembly.
35.1. Disconnect the electrical connectors.

35.2. Disconnect the cables (if equipped).
36. Remove the instrument cluster screws and the cluster.
37. Remove the IP auxiliary storage compartment (if equipped).
38. Remove the IP cupholder.
39. Remove the ashtray assembly.
40. Remove the radio from the carrier.
41. Remove the two air distribution duct screws.

The air duct needs to come out so that you can remove the wiring harness beneath. It's held in place with two screws on the ends and a clip in the radio/hvac cavity. I didn’t get a picture of the clip, but take out the radio and a/c control panel and it’s in there.

One screw is on the passenger side

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and one on the driver side behind the wiring

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42. Remove the air distributor duct from the IP. Squeeze the clips from the front of the IP in order to release the duct.
43. Disconnect the antenna lead-in.

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44. Remove the retaining clips from the inflatable restraint IP module or the IP compartment assembly.
45. Remove the inflatable restraint IP module.
46. Remove the four nuts that retain the IP compartment assembly to the carrier (vehicles over 8,600 GVWR).

Remove passenger airbag. It has four screws, two are captive. I didn't get a picture of the other two, but they go up toward the top of the dash.

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47. Remove the rosebud retainers on the right side of the IP forward harness.

There are several metal clips and plastic christmas tree clips that hold the harness to the dash. Just disconnect all wiring harnesses to the cigarette lighter, 4x4 buttons, airbag switch, cargo light, etc. and remove from dash. I started with the passenger side.

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Be careful with the connector to the instrument cluster. Squeeze the side clips and push the connector forward (toward the steering wheel), turn it and then pull it back through the opening.

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And that's about it. Transfer the wiring harness to the new dash and install the HVAC ductwork onto the new dash. Reinstall the radio, passenger airbag, etc. and go from there. Installation in the truck is the reverse.

 

[Colonel Sanders]

Nice writeup! I'm going to have to do this when I can get my hands on a good dash.

 

[98chevy2500SS]

Damn man! Thanks for this awesome write up! Wish there was a write up like this in February when I did my dash swap from my 98 dash to a 95 dash. Still an awesome write up man, you did maximum effort in this one.

 

[east302]

Thanks guys, hopefully it will help someone out down the road.


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[Z71Hobbs]

Nice write up!!!

 

[kennythewelder]

Grate write up, Thanks!!!!

 

[Albert]

Nice work