clutch fan nightmare.

[Ironhead]

This is bizarre. I'm beginning to wonder if the overheating is caused by something else, like maybe some crud blocking the flow in part of the rad. If that part of the rad had no flow, it would be cool, and if the fan clutch was right behind that spot, it would freewheel, as it thinks thinks are cool, and the fan isn't needed.

I know this is a long shot, but I hate to see these mysteries go unsolved.

 

[SLmateo]

I'm not sure about the diesel fan but it sounds like the gas ones do the same. The clutch has silicone in it, heat from the rad heats the clutch "engaging" the clutch. When air through the rad is cooler the silicone contacts and "disengages" the fan (still spins but at like 30% off water pump). Severe duty clutches are supposed to spin at roughly 90% of water pump speed regular duty is around 60% I believe, none of them truly lock though.



I was thinking about the fan hot hitting a hot spot but when I took one of the newer ones off (almost immediately after turning off the car) the heat sinks were warm, but possibly


With the themo, upper hose gets hot one tick below 210, it holds temp at idle, and i can feel water moving in the hose if i squeeze (it's hot af when I do). I can visually see flow with the rad cap off too.. not trying to knock anyone and I'm totally up for suggestions just saying what I've done and seen.


The most confusing thing is at a cold start the clutch is engaged for a bit like normal, disengages, but never engages again and can be stopped by hand when driving to operating tempature... when I say disengages after cold start I mean it still had resistance and cannot be stopped by hand/cardboard/screwdriver (whatever you choose) like to my knowledge it should be.

I can visually see the water pump flange spinning fast, much faster than the fan when it freewheels

Another reason that seems to support the rad is working is that I can drive and hold tempature while moving, but at a light...

 

[Justin S]

Ditch it for electric fans, I have dual fans hooked up on mine that comes with a thermostat switch that kicks them on at a certain temp, and I also had a wire that was supposed to go to A/C so it comes on when I use it, but I just sent it to a toggle switch so I can turn it on when I want still

 

[SLmateo]

Got aplace with them around 300 or less for the kit? I really don't want to drop 500-600 on fans.

Edit: found it for 470 new so I'm considering if my mechanic gets stumped too, but still over ideal.

 

[SAATR]

2011 Silverado cooling fans are $150 brand new from RA. Should move plenty of air, and all you'll just have to come up with a mounting solution. Worst case, muffler strapping and zip ties work quite well till a more elegant solution presents itself.

That said, I still think you have an issue that isn't the clutch. But if your mechanic says it isn't and you trust him, the who am I to argue?

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[SLmateo]

Not trying to argue either or that take mechanics advice to the tee or i wouldn't post online. Just looking for other opinions. I'm stumped personally as other things seem to be working properly to my knowledge. The mechanic said was there was flow, tempature held for 30 mins at idle, compression test held for 20 mins, and it looks like the clutch since it's able to be stopped by hand and not somewhat engaged.. as far I see the possibly of a clogged rad so I'll prob have it flushed just seems odd because the clutch gets hot enough to be warm when I take it off, but doesn't engage.

The clutch moves with the wp which is pushing, and is thermally regulated, but even if the rad is clogged it's getting hot enough to burn you at the top and makes the clutch's heat sinks warm so I'd think it would still work properly and maybe still overheat but try and keep it down by engaging... and I'm kind of doubting the clogged rad because I drop tempature when moving, wouldn't a clogged rad not have enough flow to cool when moving?

I'm really just looking for options to look at and like I said before was just saying what I've experienced with the problem and not trying to knock anyone's advice.

I'm not great with electronics and I'll need all the relays and instructions probably so it would have to be an expensive kit if I did go e fan.

 

[SLmateo]

Well I guess I just have serious bad luck or someone in my area messed with local parts... put on an ac Delco ordered online and I'm cycling and one tick under again....wtf... at least the nightmares over.

 

[df2x4]

Quality parts for the win!

 

[SAATR]

Damn, that's some craptastic QC on Hayden's part. I'll stick with OE pulloffs from the junkyard.

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[SLmateo]

I'm just glad I changed the ac Delco before I flushed the system again... was going to chemically flush and then take it off and being it to someone if that didn't work... crazy stuff had me soo frustrated... to give credit my 1st hayden severe duty from rock auto lasted about 3 1/2 weeks... just long enough to ship it back for a refund before the 30 days

Thanks for helping through the ordeal!