clutch fan nightmare.

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SLmateo

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Well I just got my intake manifold gasket done and saw my clutch fan was free wheeling and could be stopped by hand. So I did the right thing and replaced it and replaced it. .. I've replaced it 4 times so far (all hayden severe duty 2 from aap, 1 RA, 1 oriley) and everyone freewheels at operating temp and does not engage.. could I seriously have 4 duds. It's a 95 350 tbi so it's just 4 bolts to water pump and 4 clutch to blades so I doubt in doing anything wrong there., but maybe?

Themo opens fine, top hose hot lower a bit cooler, coolant is full and no leaks and there is flow. I burped the system before and jacked up the front, ran the heat, and burped again today just to make sure and had no bubbles... what is with this overheating
 
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SAATR

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Does it happen only at idle or at speed, on the freeway as well?
 

SLmateo

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I'll describe what I've been having. When I first install the new clutch it will engage high like normal. I go to drive and it down engages the clutch and is tight either way and cannot be stopped. Seems like the first time it gets to operating tempature (driving) it begins to overheat and I'll pull over and check and fan can be stopped and will not engage.
 

SAATR

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Did you ever check your inlet and outlet temps, and the temperature of the core itself as I suggested in the other thread? That info would be really helpful.
 

SLmateo

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I personally didn't (don't have one handy) but my mechanic did with a infra thermometer and it was in spec even at idle it doesn't overheat even with the freewheeling clutch, not until it's driven. He said he had it sitting for about 30 minutes and didn't check the clutch but it held temp fine for that time and no leaks after gasket. I brought it by right at close and he said clutch looks bad as it was freewheeling (replaced today with one from orileys and does the same). It started to overheat while driving.. he's a family friend so I trust what he did and he said water pump looks good.. maybe just drop it off again and see or does it sound like I should try another clutch? .. just trying to avoid wasted money if it is just the clutch. . I also let it sit for like 20 mins and it holds fine at park as well as drive with the brake on. When gauge said it was hot, the infra said it was hot and at 200ish upper hose gets hot so coolant temp sensor I guess is good too.

....I can tell it's not cooling as efficent as before as it does get to 210 but will drop back down at park. Before I would be a constant one tick under.

If it matters it'll get 3/4 maxed before I'll turn it off but I haven't seen it go
 
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SLmateo

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Well I'm stumped.. I'm going to get another one from another store put it on and then give it to the mechanic if I still have the same problem. I'll update just for s and gs what the problem was.
 

Ironhead

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Years ago, I bought a Chevy Flat-nose van with a 283 in it. It had a clutch fan, that doesn't look all that different from the one on my 98 vortec 5700. When I first got that Van, which had a 4.11 rear gear on fairly small tires, I couldn't believe how loud the engine was at highway speeds. I took a good look, and found that the previous owner (the telephone company) had locked the fan with a simple piece of strap steel which was formed to go under two of the bolts.

Since I could not stand the noise, I took the strap off, and put everything back go stock. Noise went away, and I did not have overheating problems. Maybe the phone company idled the vehicle for long periods, and that created a problem, but I do not know.

I suggest you try locking your fan and clutch like this to see if this is the cause of the overheating. Very simple to do, although I never did take a picture or keep the piece of strapping.
 

SLmateo

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How exactly would you do this? I've seen it done on electric before but not thermals


......to save me some time I just ordered 3 for in store pickup. 2 severe and 1 regular duty. If I have enough time before work tomorrow I'll try them and see if it works... if not I'll prob grab an ac Delco from RA and try.

Buddy of mine came to help me figure it out. He thinks clutch as well so I'm hoping so. If not I may just go electric but I'm trying to avoid as I have a sound system and a stock alt and don't plan on upgrading it.
 
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Ironhead

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I have to go on memory here, but I think the piece of approximately 5/8th inch strap steel was bent into a "u" shape, and it was the put under one fan bolt and one clutch bolt, or something like that. What it did was lock the fan to the hub, so the clutch could not let the fan slip at all.

Looks like you've gone to get more clutches, hope the problem goes away.
 

SLmateo

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Ok that makes sense I might do it as a temp fix, thanks. I tried a another new one same problem. My mechanic is trying to figure it out since it had him curious as well, but I may just go electric if I can find one cheap.

Anyone know where to get a refurbished flex a lite 280? Cheapest I've found is a new one for $530, more than I'm willing to spend.... I wasn't going to but without the clutch I feel the boost in power so I kind of like it lol.
 
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