Can't figure out my power locks...

[The Arctic Fox]

Alright so I'm stumped.

The back story: 3 1/2 years ago I bought a new inner door panel because everything was shot basically. So what does my 18 year young self do? Jury rigs the **** out of all the window switch and door lock switch wires with crimps that 4 years down the road didn't hold up.... Also messed up the damn rods that also lock the truck, so I couldn't lock my truck for the past 3 1/2 years. I'm not sure what was going through my head.....

Alright, so the other week I bought 1992 Suburban driver and passenger door panels with the inner door panels also with the whole door wiring harness. I got home and found out the pigtails aren't the same from the door to the truck.

Here's the original door-side pigtails.

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And the suburban door-side pigtails... (you'll notice it has only 7 pins in, because I figured out how to pop them out, before the picture.)

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Like I said I figured out how, since the pigtails had the same amount and color wires, I switched from the suburban pigtail to my trucks original pigtail. I then had a few wires left over plus quite a bit of extra pigtails hanging out. Like these: powered mirror and somethings I have no clue what they were for...

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I'm trying to figure out is why my truck had 5 wires running to the power lock switch

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And the suburban had 3 wires to the switch...

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I cut the 2 wires out of the old door panel and added the two to the suburban panel switch and grounded them like this diagram says the are. http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1b8y1-wiring-code-power-door-lock-switches.html

So now it looks original and still haven't figured out why the door lock motor still aint engaging.

On a side note I tested the motor and they do work from a separate dc supply. Any knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated!

 

[orangeastre]

Are you sure the door harness is from a 92 Suburban?

The first couple pictures in your post aren't showing up either.

 

[The Arctic Fox]

Are you sure the door harness is from a 92 Suburban?

The first couple pictures in your post aren't showing up either.

Well the suburban was in the junkyard and I took the blue door panels off it and the inner door panels. It had pristine blue bucket seats and center console I really wanted too, but had no money for....

try refreshing the page mine show up every time.

 

[orangeastre]

It would appear that the door lock harness controls you have controls a relay pack much like the 95-98 keyless entry trucks. I have never run across a harness that looks like that in an older truck.

According to the installer software I have, a 92 Suburban uses a positive triggered door lock system, where the 89-94 pickup trucks use a 5 wire(reverse polarity) switching system. The exception to that is the 4 dr. trucks, which use the positive trigger locking system.

I can help you make this work, are you comfortable with electrical work?

 

[The Arctic Fox]

It would appear that the door lock harness controls you have controls a relay pack much like the 95-98 keyless entry trucks. I have never run across a harness that looks like that in an older truck.

According to the installer software I have, a 92 Suburban uses a positive triggered door lock system, where the 89-94 pickup trucks use a 5 wire(reverse polarity) switching system. The exception to that is the 4 dr. trucks, which use the positive trigger locking system.

I can help you make this work, are you comfortable with electrical work?

Yes I am comfortable with electrical! I've got diagrams and checked the switches with my meter. They all have conductivity when I press unlock or lock on the respective pins. I hooked the passenger lock motor to 12v dc power and it took a while but it unlocked, so I switched the polarity, but it didn't go back in. There's probably more to it than reversing the polarity though. Probably something to do with a relay pack like you said.

Edit: Fixed the first 2 pictures in 1st post I think