Can mount replacement issue

[Hipster]

Maybe? That’s a good thought.. I did notice that the front mounts did look pretty rusty/didn’t do much anymore. What do you think I do to fix the tight gap between the closed door and then front fender?

The door looks to be too far forward, looks to had beat and banged on already, kinda doubtful it closed like butter before.

You need to get accurate with your descriptions. Inner rocker replaced, what else you replaced, etc , When you cut structure components out other things can move, did you loosen the other mounts when you jacked it so the cab could raise up, or twist the cab instead.......

 

[Logan R]

I sure thought the door closed as designed before, but that’s just me. When the cab was jacked up, both rear mounts were loose or taken off, and the front mounts were left untouched, if they were doing something or not im not sure

 

[Hipster]

im not sure

That's one of the problems. You were the only one there. If you're not sure what you did or didn't do, I'm not sure anyone can help you. Jacking the rear of the cab up with everything else including front sheetmetal bolted on and binding it was a no-no.

 

[Logan R]

Alright here’s my thought.. yes I screwed up but please don’t judge me this is my first truck, nonetheless body project on a vehicle. I’m pretty sure when I was replacing the inner cab corner the passenger side was all nice and level (meaning the cab mount was in and everything) while the drivers side was not, so I’m guessing once I cut all that out the cab twisted, causing it to be so far out of alignment. My plan is to cute back out the inner cab corner. Jack the cab back up level, check to see the doors works again, and then weld everything as solid as possible. I think that’ll fix my issue

 

[FullBlowncustoms]

That's one of the problems. You were the only one there. If you're not sure what you did or didn't do, I'm not sure anyone can help you. Jacking the rear of the cab up with everything else including front sheetmetal bolted on and binding it was a no-no.

Yes to above.... To many things all done at once, she is tweaked twisted etc from jacking it up etc .... Or floor work is welded in off etc... to many things....

 

[Hipster]

Alright here’s my thought.. yes I screwed up but please don’t judge me this is my first truck, nonetheless body project on a vehicle. I’m pretty sure when I was replacing the inner cab corner the passenger side was all nice and level (meaning the cab mount was in and everything) while the drivers side was not, so I’m guessing once I cut all that out the cab twisted, causing it to be so far out of alignment. My plan is to cute back out the inner cab corner. Jack the cab back up level, check to see the doors works again, and then weld everything as solid as possible. I think that’ll fix my issue

A box of sheet metal screws is your friend. After you cut it back apart, screw and make sure everything fits before welding. You really need the fenders off and I would look those over closely where they bolt to the A-pillar and cowl areas for damage also. Effectively you jacked the cab into the fenders. You don't jack by the floor pan. You need to be on a cross brace or something under there.

That cab mount should probably be stitched around it's perimeter complete instead of spot welded, I'm not exactly sure how that's fitted in there but it holds the cab on the frame.

 

[Logan R]

Ok, I will make sure to use some screws. I guess I didn’t know the floor pan was a bad idea, I thought using a board would’ve been ok and distributed the weight enough.I had started to weld it all around the top, but there was a gap in the corner by where the door would close, so I was gonna “form” the steel to my inner cab corner. I will attach the picture of the gap.

 

[Logan R]

Also jacking up the front drivers side corner also helped with the door hitting the striker correctly, but the door to cab gaps were still off. When I jacked it up the door was “over top” of the weather stripping and the seam wasn’t flush. If I ran my hand from the roof of the cab towards the door it would hit the door, not just glide over that seam like it wasn’t really there

 

[Hipster]

Ok, I will make sure to use some screws. I guess I didn’t know the floor pan was a bad idea, I thought using a board would’ve been ok and distributed the weight enough.I had started to weld it all around the top, but there was a gap in the corner by where the door would close, so I was gonna “form” the steel to my inner cab corner. I will attach the picture of the gap.

gotta luv aftermarket stuff

 

[Logan R]

Yep. Could that gap be caused by the cab being off? Or just the price I put in be “mis manufactured”?