Can mount replacement issue

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Hipster

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Yep. Could that gap be caused by the cab being off? Or just the price I put in be “mis manufactured”?
Some is better than others but most of it is far from OEM in fit, material thickness, etc. get it fit up, and look at it closely before welding in case you need to move stuff around.
 

Logan R

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Alright sounds good, hopefully everything can or will move back into shape once I cut that out. Thanks for the info! I’ll try to post if or when I get this done.
 

jaybee

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You've described a door that doesn't fit the frame properly when it's latched. Sure sounds like you've changed the shape of the door frames. I don't know how to fix that except to figure out where to cut it back apart, shift things around until the door fits properly, and weld it back up again. I say that because you describe fit problems all over the perimeter of the door that didn't exist before. If the door is now too close to the front fender even though you didn't have the fender off, and the gap at the back of the door is much larger at the top of the door than the bottom, you've somehow leaned the hinge post forward at the top or backward at the bottom. Is the gap at the back of the door normal at the bottom, or abnormally tight? How's the gap across the bottom of the door? Does the door fit flush with the body as it should? If you look at it all the way around, you should begin to see what's shifted.
 

Logan R

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I think the gal at the bottom is fine, I know the truck was hit before so I’m sure that’s why the door to fender gap is tight, the door at the bottom looked good to me when latched, it’s at the top of the frame where the door is “overtop” of where it should normally ride. And the top rear corner of the door frame has a large enough gap to where I can fit my finger into the weatherstripping and then into the cab a little. The door get better to farther down that “seal line” you go though
 

Selrahc360

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Hi all, I recently replaced the drivers side cab mount bracket, the piece of steel it mounts to, and the inner cab corner. (I will add in LMC truck part numbers) Now, my door will not close properly as it looks sagged, and it closed perfectly fine before my work, and the door closing body lines all around the door are off as well. Any suggestions of what I all did wrong? This project has taken long enough and i am tired of running into issues!
Inner rocker 39-9632
Inner cab corner 39-9658
Rear cab mount support
39-9758
I also had to “modify” my already homemade bracket as when I put in the rear cab mount support I could never figure out how to get it in level, and so the mount it’s self is sitting at a bit of an angle truly. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Did you replace all of the bushing for the cab? Even the front ones? If you did not that is the issue. They all have to be replaced, at one time.
 

Logan R

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Yea I did not, that is something I am also gonna look into that when I have time. Thanks
 
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