Camber pics for Dariusz

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Dariusz Salomon

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I'm going to have it aligned friday-I'm thinking caster 4-4.5,camber slight negative-0.15-0.25 maybe(feels better/safer when turning-maybe it's subjective)-but not sure what to do with toe-before last"adjustment"(after which truck pulls to the left like crazy-even on the flat surface) I had these settings(see pic-truck drove ok just looked a bit **** with negative driver camber and positive passenger one-previous owner had it set up like this to compensate for the road camber-UK so camber pulls left)-the "adjustment"added negative camber on my right and went from toe out to toe in(roughly 0.25 total).
So what do you think-what toe would do the trick-I just want it to drive straight on the flat surface?
Also negative camber-yes or no?
Appreciate opinions.
My old aligment on the 2 other picturesyou can see how it toes out.
 

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Dariusz Salomon

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Negative camber YES! I run around -.5* in mine and they wear evenly. Don't get your hopes up on caster, I think spec is 2-4 degrees. I couldn't get any from the one side of my 1500.
Thanks for it-will get the guy to try to get me as much as possible on caster with negative camber-Imma put more emphasis on caster I think-according to the sheet I posted in previous message they managed 3.21 on .26 camber so not tragic.
And what do you think toe-wise?
 

Supercharged111

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Thanks for it-will get the guy to try to get me as much as possible on caster with negative camber-Imma put more emphasis on caster I think-according to the sheet I posted in previous message they managed 3.21 on .26 camber so not tragic.
And what do you think toe-wise?

I just go with the machine on toe. Now the race car gets around 1/16"-1/8" toe out.
 

Pinger

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My experience with toe (on other vehicles) is that it doesn't affect straight running. If it is out on one side then the vehicle still runs straight but with the steering wheel crooked.
Where toe seems to make a difference is in initial turn-in to a corner. Toe out makes them feel keener to make for the apex - highly subjective though. That said, in a straight line, to will 'present' either the inner or outer part of the tread contact patch to a greater extent than with zero toe and the resulting force(s) act around the steering axis position at ground level so there is a potential source of straight line instability.

Ditto camber - forces acting on one side or the other of the steering axis position at ground level. It's hard to know where your steering axis at ground level is relative to your tyre contact patch as it varies with the different offsets of different wheels. I'd want to know this before doing anything.

The effects of caster will vary depending on the offset between steering axis at ground level and the tyre contact patch so until they are known (and whether positive or negative) hard to predict which side would need more or less. My preference would be for equal as a start point.
 

Supercharged111

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I believe the vehicle will pull toward the side that has either less negative camber and/or less positive caster, i.e. less of what's good. One pulls harder than the other when they don't match too, I want to say camber there but don't quote me.
 

Dariusz Salomon

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Yup-caster can do it
I believe the vehicle will pull toward the side that has either less negative camber and/or less positive caster, i.e. less of what's good. One pulls harder than the other when they don't match too, I want to say camber there but don't quote me on that.
Yup-caster and camber can do it. I just read a ton on the subject and I have a pretty good idea on what I want.
 
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