Cab corners, fu3k.

[kennythewelder]

These spots were something left unattended at the factory. They all start in the same place, mine did too. I wonder if you could fill that entire corner with spray foam after the repair?

Spray foam, well maybe, but there is a drain there for some reason. I figured out that there is insulation in that spot, so if water does get in there from IDK where, then the insulation will get and stay wet for some time. Kind of like laying a wet rag on raw metal. Its guna rust. The trick is, maybe I can cut or hole saw a hole behind the panel so I can seal the repair from the back. The IDK just JB weld a patch over where I cut the hole. It wont show. It will be under the truck, and behind the cab corner. I have access to a lot of scrap aluminum sheet metal.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Patch it with stainless?

 

[TonyM]

That insulation you’re talking about is an adhesive that is right at the body line. It holds the panel to the cab floor. I just did my corners as they had the exact same rust up high like yours. Yet the bottom where the drain is and even the inner section were good. Its weird how it happens. Here’s some pics to give you an idea of what it looks like inside

You must be registered for see images attach

That adhesive is right above that cut line. A little wire wheel and some por15 and primer and it was good to go. Of course I didn’t get pics. But here’s the final product also had to replace a section of rocker panel

You must be registered for see images attach

Don't mind the runs in the primer lol. All i had left was weld thru stuff at the moment and that stuff doesn't like going on too heavy





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kennythewelder]

That insulation you’re talking about is an adhesive that is right at the body line. It holds the panel to the cab floor. I just did my corners as they had the exact same rust up high like yours. Yet the bottom where the drain is and even the inner section were good. Its weird how it happens. Here’s some pics to give you an idea of what it looks like inside

You must be registered for see images attach

That adhesive is right above that cut line. A little wire wheel and some por15 and primer and it was good to go. Of course I didn’t get pics. But here’s the final product also had to replace a section of rocker panel

You must be registered for see images attach

Don't mind the runs in the primer lol. All i had left was weld thru stuff at the moment and that stuff doesn't like going on too heavy





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice job. Thanks for the pics. I was wanting to see behind the cab corner to have some idea where to put a hole in the back of access so I can treat the welds from behind. These pics help. I should be able to cut a little window in the back and be able to treat the repair from behind. I have some idea where to put that window now.

 

[Donald Mitchell]

Evercoat makes a lot of things automotive, this may be good, closed cell and waterproof.http://www.evercoat.com/product-detail/part-number/100654/us/
Another idea is bedliner if you can get it into the right place.
Another https://www.llproducts.com/fileadmin/user_upload/automotive_expanding_sealant_flyer_feb2021.pdf

 

[TonyM]

Nice job. Thanks for the pics. I was wanting to see behind the cab corner to have some idea where to put a hole in the back of access so I can treat the welds from behind. These pics help. I should be able to cut a little window in the back and be able to treat the repair from behind. I have some idea where to put that window now.

Thanks it’s been a long road getting it back in shape. Thankfully my trade is a body man/painter but I gave it up probably 15 years ago. Hard thankless work lol.

Yeah there’s lots of room back there to put an access plug. Now that mine is pretty much done I’m going to get the cab corners, rockers, inner doors wool waxed. Here’s a current pic. Still looking for the right 16” front rims. It came with silly 16.5s

Just a simple raptor liner paint job.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kennythewelder]

My coworker has done a bunch of body work repairs on motor cycles. He said he has used JB Weld with metal in it before, and it works good as a filler. So I have a few tubes of regular JB Weld and I figured I would give that a try. I have worked with JB Weld enough to know that it runs untill it drys in about 6 hours. So I figured I would try some clear packaging tape to hold it in place until its dry. We will see if that works. Only question is, will it cure under the tape. I have used it on my dash enough to know I can sand it, and work with it.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[kennythewelder]

I pulled off the clear tape. It looks good. It set up to a putty like consistency. I was able to work it down with my finger and thumb getting it flatter and smother. I know it will cure over night. I should be good to sand it tomorrow. I waited about 4 hours before I removed the tape.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[TonyM]

Nice. I’ve actually never thought about using jb weld for bodywork. Interesting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kennythewelder]

Because of the time factor when I welded in the little patches where the holes were, I was unable to get any pics before I ground the welds down and primed the surface. I did the repair on my lunch hour. The little fillet patches I made, I ground down to fit the holes perfectly. After welding in the patches, I used a sanding disc on a 4.5" hand grinder- sander. Today before I used the JB Weld kind of like you would bondo, as that type of body filler, I sanded off all of the primer. I also had to do a little grinding with a 6" cut off wheel. It was next to the bed so a little hard to reach in there with the bed still in place. So it should all work out good I hope.

 

[letitsnow]

Kennythejbwelder