Cab corner cost?

[95bucket]

Your cab corner should go down to below the part in red here, that is why it doesn't fit.

Yea. Stamped wrong. Gotta section these.

 

[deadbeat]

You have to cut out the bottom inside corner on every cab corner I've installed, not stamped wrong, that is how they are all stamped.

 

[95bucket]

You have to cut out the bottom inside corner on every cab corner I've installed, not stamped wrong, that is how they are all stamped.

I hear ya. Prob can't see in this pic that well but classic industries even confirmed this and refunded me for the part. I've got another thread that covers this.

 

[90halfton]

You have to cut out the bottom inside corner on every cab corner I've installed, not stamped wrong, that is how they are all stamped.

That is ridiculous,. What possible reason could they have for making them such a jacked up fit.

 

[deadbeat]

It's not ridiculus, I could make that fit in 5 minutes. I had to notch mine the same way. They are slip on replacement parts, not OEM which btw, is the entire a pillar. I didn't buy the bottom of the bucket either, I bought CAPA certified and you still have to trim the lip off where it slides over the rocker panel. After you weld it all up you then buy some Fast-N-Firm seam sealer and seam seal the small opening between them. Take some laquer thinner and dip your finger in it and rub the seam sealer down so slick that it won't look like it is there. I am done with this conversation, I have put dozens of these on before. Check out my build and you can see where I put some on about a month ago, and yes, I had to trim them to fit. Come to think of it, most you have to trim the back lip that connects to the rear cab panel as it is wider than the seam it goes in. I guess on some they give you a little more metal in spots in case you need it to aid the fix.

 

[kennythewelder]

Don't let them jurk your chain, deadbeat, anyone who has done any panel fitting at all, knows that you always have to trim to fit. Anyone who doesn't know this, has never done any real body work. Hell there is a ton of vodeos that show this.

 

[90halfton]

It's not ridiculus, I could make that fit in 5 minutes. I had to notch mine the same way. They are slip on replacement parts, not OEM which btw, is the entire a pillar. I didn't buy the bottom of the bucket either, I bought CAPA certified and you still have to trim the lip off where it slides over the rocker panel. After you weld it all up you then buy some Fast-N-Firm seam sealer and seam seal the small opening between them. Take some laquer thinner and dip your finger in it and rub the seam sealer down so slick that it won't look like it is there. I am done with this conversation, I have put dozens of these on before. Check out my build and you can see where I put some on about a month ago, and yes, I had to trim them to fit. Come to think of it, most you have to trim the back lip that connects to the rear cab panel as it is wider than the seam it goes in. I guess on some they give you a little more metal in spots in case you need it to aid the fix.

Relax, I wasn't doubting you, was an honest question. Can see how that probably came off abrasive on a screen though. Seems like it would make more sense if the same was almost a dead match. Just cut off bad thing, weld on new thing. This is why I haven't ordered a set and done them myself.

 

[kennythewelder]

Relax, I wasn't doubting you, was an honest question. Can see how that probably came off abrasive on a screen though. Seems like it would make more sense if the same was almost a dead match. Just cut off bad thing, weld on new thing. This is why I haven't ordered a set and done them myself.

The reason that they give you extra metal is, because in 1988 when GM first started making the 400s, the dies they used, were new. As they stamped parts over and over again, the dies wore, The older the dies are, the more they will stamp a part, that is a little off. The dies ware to a point that the parts are no longer within tolerance. Once this happens, the die is replaced, and the cycle starts again. The places that make replacement parts, have to make there parts to fit all of these trucks, so they give you extra metal so you can trim the part to fit the truck. When you go get parts, from the salvage yard ( a door, a hood, a fender, whatever) it is best to stay close to the same year of your truck. And then you still can get a part that is off some what. This apply's to any body work, on any car or truck.

 

[90halfton]

The reason that they give you extra metal is, because in 1988 when GM first started making the 400s, the dies they used, were new. As they stamped parts over and over again, the dies wore, The older the dies are, the more they will stamp a part, that is a little off. The dies ware to a point that the parts are no longer within tolerance. Once this happens, the die is replaced, and the cycle starts again. The places that make replacement parts, have to make there parts to fit all of these trucks, so they give you extra metal so you can trim the part to fit the truck. When you go get parts, from the salvage yard ( a door, a hood, a fender, whatever) it is best to stay close to the same year of your truck. And then you still can get a part that is off some what. This apply's to any body work, on any car or truck.

Hmm. Interesting. And very disturbing at the same time. Wonder how many structural things were stamped out to spec in 88 and had changed for the worst by the late nineties.

 

[kennythewelder]

Hmm. Interesting. And very disturbing at the same time. Wonder how many structural things were stamped out to spec in 88 and had changed for the worst by the late nineties.

keep in mind that spec is a scale, from a to b. Once a part was to far out of spec, the dies would be replaced. There was and still is a guide that is followed to replace stamping dies.