Bummed with AC overhaul

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rook

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Knuckle Dragger is correct "You should have power on both sides. Power on one side is a defective switch"
this is true if you check it with the plug connected.if the pressure is too low to work the switch,paper clip or jumper the plug to get it going or just to check the clutch. breaking out the volt meter is more than likely going to be you best bet. unplug the compressor and unplug the switch turn on the ac from the controls in the vehicle check the low side plug for voltage at the switch/plug (the connector on the receiver/dryer) if it hs 12 volts jump it out then check the compressor plug then check it for voltage.

Perfect, yes - this is what I was hoping to get back. Thanks - I’ll check it tonight when I’m home.


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gmachinz

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Rarely is this kind of AC problem electrical related. It sounds to me like you have a severe blockage in the lines somewhere-hence the PO also not able to fix it and put a delete pulley.

Gauges indicating a good vacuum can also be a result of it pulling against a block too. I’d suggest (and yep it’ll be a pita!) pulling the grill off to get to the orifice tube as well as all the line fittings and doing a chemical flush with compressed air. Re-assemble with all new orings, then fill your compressor with half oil capacity, the other half in your new drier, then pull it all back down to at least 30” for half hour.

I know most people dont like the thought of it, but it’s better most of the time to just go all new when you start having AC component problems.
 

blacksport

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i was thinking blockage also but go ahead and check the electrical now it should only take like 5 to 10 min.i am about to go down the rabbit hole my truck is a 92 my condenser was broken open in a wreck so i got all NEW 1994 condenser,94 orifice tube,receiver,compressor and pressure switches so going r134a should cool great with the proper pressures.i think it will work better than a retro fit kit.i just put a new dash in so i hope the evaporator is good.
 
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gmachinz

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Blockages arent rare with high mileage on AC compressor, a locked up or grenaded compressor, etc. and that crud travels through the system so a chemical flush should be performed before installing all new components. I’ve been doing AC service work and overhauls for over 25 years now-heck I’ve even seen pieces of insects inside lines that have been open for awhile. Bees can get into the damndest places lol
 

rook

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Perfect, yes - this is what I was hoping to get back. Thanks - I’ll check it tonight when I’m home.


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I can jump the compressor. But, after about four hours of trying different things, my compressor is hot as hell... no pressure, I don’t think my manifold gauges aren’t reading correctly anymore... I tried them on my other vehicle...

So I got a new low side switch (on the dryer/accumulator) that should kick the clutch, but no action. I tried all three switches I had with the old and new dryer/accumulator, no go. It’ll do it manually, but not with any combination of switches/dryers.

I had one of the direct fill/refill hoses for the low side, still doesn’t pull refrigerant in. Regardless of my manifold set, if everything was working it should pull it in from a direct hose, right.

I’m in the twilight zone - none of this makes any sense.

Next thoughts are to probably grab the best looking pump from the salvage yard and try a rented manifold gauge set, start from square one. Go back over everything.

Best I can figure, the compressor is toast, or has a massive leak, once it starts, since it was holding a vacuum yesterday.


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rook

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Rarely is this kind of AC problem electrical related. It sounds to me like you have a severe blockage in the lines somewhere-hence the PO also not able to fix it and put a delete pulley.

Gauges indicating a good vacuum can also be a result of it pulling against a block too. I’d suggest (and yep it’ll be a pita!) pulling the grill off to get to the orifice tube as well as all the line fittings and doing a chemical flush with compressed air. Re-assemble with all new orings, then fill your compressor with half oil capacity, the other half in your new drier, then pull it all back down to at least 30” for half hour.

I know most people dont like the thought of it, but it’s better most of the time to just go all new when you start having AC component problems.


No, I can try this too. I put on a new condenser, oriface, lines back to the firewall as part of this project, but you’re right I’ll have to go over it again. I have some extra (new) oriface tubes. I’ll see if the new one that came with the condenser is at all clogged from the last couple days.

I literally replaced everything in the AC and heater systems, front and rear, both heater cores, both evaporators, new HVAC box flaps,... the pump has been in a box for two years (didn’t really need AC until I had infant kids to haul around when the wife can’t).

Yeah, taking the front off is no sweat. I actually got a new grill and some LED headlights, a heavy duty headlight harness direct off the battery, I’ve been saving up goodies for ancouple years. Everything has gone great except this - this was supposed to be the easy part! Getting to, opening, refurb’ing, sealing and installing the front/rear HVAC boxes was supposed to be the hard part... I’m getting my tail kicked at what I thought was the finish line after I had no leaks in the heat/AC lines...


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blacksport

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not jacking the thread...... i hear ya man i have also been waiting to throw some parts at the truck when the grill is off,new condenser,power steering cooler,trans cooler and new fog's. today is the day it happens.
 

Knuckle Dragger

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Blockages arent rare with high mileage on AC compressor, a locked up or grenaded compressor, etc. and that crud travels through the system so a chemical flush should be performed before installing all new components. I’ve been doing AC service work and overhauls for over 25 years now-heck I’ve even seen pieces of insects inside lines that have been open for awhile. Bees can get into the damndest places lol

35 years twisting wrenches. 4 times I came across a blockage not in a orifice/expansion valve. That makes them rare in my book. The freon pressure is too low to allow the compressor to turn on is the most likely fault. You can spend hours and hours looking for obscure crap that happened once or twice or you can focus on the most likely and work from there.
 

rook

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not jacking the thread...... i hear ya man i have also been waiting to throw some parts at the truck when the grill is off,new condenser,power steering cooler,trans cooler and new fog's. today is the day it happens.

Good luck, man. I put in the headlight harness that goes straight to the battery when I took mine off - I had that laying around for a while, the new LED headlights are nice. Didn’t go HID, but could still - curious to see how long the LED’s last.

And, since I had to pull the dash and some seats, put in the rubber floor to replace the carpet... painted my sub enclosure... instead of installing an new amp I’m dealing with this...

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