Bad running after manual swap

[JPVortex]

Yeah there’s no way it’s not an electrical problem. I explained everything to him there, he seems to think it’s a grounding issue or possibly a short, but he’s gonna look at it.

 

[JPVortex]

I’m also wondering, could the ignition switch have went bad causing an intermittent signal to the tach 12v wire?

 

[Scooterwrench]

I’m also wondering, could the ignition switch have went bad causing an intermittent signal to the tach 12v wire?

Yeah,but that wouldn't have an effect when you were moving the wires around on the engine. I'm pretty sure they're going to find the problem somewheres out there around the coil or main engine harness.

 

[JPVortex]

Yeah,but that wouldn't have an effect when you were moving the wires around on the engine. I'm pretty sure they're going to find the problem somewheres out there around the coil or main engine harness.

That’s true, that’s gotta be where the problem lies. Just hoping the shop it’s at now can find exactly where the problem lies.

 

[JPVortex]

Do you guys think a ground issue could cause this? I just realized I’m missing a ground.

I have the main neg battery terminal going to one of my intake bolts, then a smaller cable off the ground terminal going to the fender.

Then I have 3 small eyelets from the engine harness going to the intake.

What I noticed I’m missing is an engine to firewall ground. The one that usually goes from the back of the head to under the heater hoses.

Could this cause the issue with my coil where when I move it near the intake and dizzy it wants to stall the truck?

I don’t think it’s likely. I think it’s more likely a power issue and not a ground issue.

 

[JPVortex]

Well just an update here, truck is still in the shop, it has been there for a week now.

The shop I chose is horrible with communication, so I have no idea if they've found anything(and im close to pulling it out of the shop because of this)

Something tells me they're having a hard time finding the problem.


So if I decide to take it home without being fixed I will continue my diagnosis with:

- Testing the main coil power wire by giving it power directly to the battery.
- I'm missing the ground that goes from the firewall under the heater hoses to the back of the cylinder head, so I'll replace that.
- If I still cannot figure it out I will end up remotely mounting the ignition coil, since it functions fine when away from the intake and distributor. Will probably mount it on the firewall above the distributor cap. Theres a couple unused bolts on there that I can use to mount 1 out of the 2 coil bracket bolts, then ill just shoot a self tapper into it.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

So if I decide to take it home without being fixed I will continue my diagnosis with:

- Testing the main coil power wire by giving it power directly to the battery.
- I'm missing the ground that goes from the firewall under the heater hoses to the back of the cylinder head, so I'll replace that.

Fix up your grounds, that's wise no matter what the outcome is for this ign issue.

I stand by my comments in Post #89, at least for now.

 

[JPVortex]

I will also

Fix up your grounds, that's wise no matter what the outcome is for this ign issue.

I stand by my comments in Post #89, at least for now.

yeah grounds definitely need fixed up, don’t think it’s causing ign problem but I think it’ll eventually cause some funky issues.

And yeah I agree with post #89, one of those wires probably shorted. I don’t think it’s a rotor problem though, it did it with my old dizzy and cap and rotor, aswell as the new stuff.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I don’t think it’s a rotor problem though, it did it with my old dizzy and cap and rotor, aswell as the new stuff.

I didn't say it was a rotor problem I was explaining a symptom, not a problem

 

[JPVortex]

However with that being said, I do have another cap and rotor I can test if the shop doesn’t have luck finding an issue.