Alternator bad...new starter

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pitterpat

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Starter stopped starting this veh, 1984 Chevy 3/4 ton(basic), it just started clicking, clicking, clicking!! So I replaced the starter, Napa starter. As I was replacing I notice and replaced the connectors on the two 10 gauge wires, which from the starter go to the alternator. Had to splice these wires with butt joints to extend them back to the starter, the wires under the truck were in horrible shape and covered in oil. Anyway used butt joint connectors.

I read this thread: https://www.gmt400.com/threads/starter-troubles-and-replacement.44184/#post-1037597

Now I have lights but the starter doesn't click or turn. I don't have lights on the dash, nor does the radio work....nothing.

One thing the instructions for the starter it says:

"Step 2 - Insert screwdriver in small hole in bottom of starter motor drive and housing. Move starter drive assembly out toward fly wheel ring gear.
Step 3 - Starter drive assembly pinion gear teeth must be in mesh with fly wheel ring gear teeth."

Could my alternator be bad? I didn't even touch it.
 

Schurkey

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The mechanical alignment and spacing of the starter motor to the flywheel has nothing to do with the electrical problems you're experiencing.

Butt joint connectors are not a proper fix. They're very susceptible to corrosion and just plain pulling apart.

Is the ignition switch in serviceable condition, and adjusted properly?
 

pitterpat

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The mechanical alignment and spacing of the starter motor to the flywheel has nothing to do with the electrical problems you're experiencing.

Butt joint connectors are not a proper fix. They're very susceptible to corrosion and just plain pulling apart.

Is the ignition switch in serviceable condition, and adjusted properly?


Thanks. I have no idea about the ignition switch, it hasn't been moved or changed. The truck would start before the clicking. It would click occasionally but, not like it did last week when it just started to just click, click, click, click, click,click........
 

bowtie-72

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Hate to sound overly simple but... are you sure you have a good battery? You should have at least 12.5 volts across the terminals with a multimeter.
 

pitterpat

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Hate to sound overly simple but... are you sure you have a good battery? You should have at least 12.5 volts across the terminals with a multimeter.

I too am starting to think it is the battery too! The starter is good, attached it to another battery and jumped it across, the starter ran. The battery is the only other difference from when it was clicking. I get my batteries for this truck from Pull-A-Part, when the starter started clicking I got another battery from Pull-A-Part. I get enough juice from the battery to turn on the lights of the truck; the lights on the dash don't turn on.

I'm taking battery back to Pull-A-Part
 

94burbk1500

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Batteries are one thing i always buy new. The difference between a high quality battery and a junk one is amazing. My Burb is my road trip vehicle though, so I need to make sure it isn't going to crap out on me in the middle of nowhere.
 

bowtie-72

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Yes, pull-a-part battery. I think we found the problem. I know they are expensive, but even as cheap as I am I get mine from Auto Zone. I hope you get a good one.
 

pitterpat

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I have figured out why this truck won't start. I had a "newer" 98 GMC along with this truck for 9 years, barely drove this truck, the Pull-a-Part batteries lasted about 2-3 years. I sold the 98 about 3 weeks ago (I would not have bought the truck myself, it looked pretty bad but drove well). This will do for a while. It is an 84 square body which doesn't look very good. And the frame is rusted. Old truck. I inherited this truck from my dad in 2010.
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pitterpat

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Yes, pull-a-part battery. I think we found the problem. I know they are expensive, but even as cheap as I am I get mine from Auto Zone. I hope you get a good one.

Wasn't the battery, broken wire which looks like it was pieced back together before. But I did get a bigger battery when I went today.
 
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