Advice Needed: New Crate Engine Options for 1992 K2500?

[mountie]

About 200,000 miles ago ( 2002) & needed a valve job. ( seals leaking).... A corvette shop in Burbank, Ca. told me to "get my truck up there".... We bought a crate / 4-bolt main " carburater config. 350 w/ Vortec heads. The crate motor was purchased through Pep Boys. ( Pep Boys was a distributer.. not the builder! The engine cost the same as a valve job... $1,350.00. It is still running great. My 700r4 tranny was rebuilt in an RV / performance set-up ( $2,500 @ California Performance Transmissions/ Art Carr in Huntington Beach, Ca. good for 650 HP). All the install labor was free. So, you should figure an aprox cost. Not bad for an '88 GMC C2500.

Ya gotta love these trucks!!!!

 

[92GMCK2500]

The thing about this Blueprint crate engine is that it is meant to be a drop-in replacement for a stock 350 TBI engine. Everything that is in the truck is meant to hook right back up and run the new engine. They even supply a new chip for the ECM.

When my engine was installed, there were a few old parts that needed to be replaced. The radiator was partially blocked, oil cooler lines leaking, things like that. The water pump, fan clutch, and fan were already new because I was chasing a fluctuating coolant temperature before the new engine install. I have a manual transmission so I did have a new flywheel and clutch put in while they were out. After install, I had a high flow catalytic converter, 3” pipes, and Magnaflow knockoff muffler installed.

The list of mods has ballooned since then [emoji38]. To try to get more out of the 383, I have put in 80 lb/hr big block injectors and the EP381 fuel pump from the Vortec trucks. I started doing my own tuning and have it running really well with the increased fuel delivery, as well as disabled and blocked off the EGR. Although, it is still bolted to the manifold for emissions visual inspection. I have a big block throttle body and bored intake manifold on the shelf ready to go when I get some time so I can increase air delivery also. When I do the intake change, I have a larger 3 row radiator ready to go also because it does tend to heat up when towing. I’ll do headers and Y pipe in a few years when I can get an emissions exemption due to age of the vehicle to finish off the exhaust system.

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Yeah... I am liking those Blueprint options for the 383. Seems like a pretty simple drop in! Good option for me as I will be paying for labor too. Guess the easier it is, the quicker the shop can do it, = the less labor I will be paying for. I am thinking about getting my existing engine and components inspected before the rebuild to see what will need replacing. That way I can roughly have an idea on the overall costs. The mods you mention sound tasty!

 

[92GMCK2500]

I imagine the stock rear would be fine, 14 bolt right? I'd consider putting 4.10 gears in it if it doesn't already have them (makes tugging things a little easier).

Blueprint has a good reputation for engine building. I bought this exact engine through Summit and have put about 8k miles on it in my K2500 and it runs very strong. I use the truck to pull a 27’ travel trailer and it has plenty of power. I agree with 4.10 gears too. I swapped in a 14 bolt full float axle with 4.10s earlier this year and it made a big difference over the stock 3.42’s.
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Found the RPO codes today and had a look under the truck. Good news, I have a existing 14-bolt rear diff with 4.10 gears! Based on what I am hearing and with my goal of +/- 250 to 300HP and +/- 350-400TQ, this rear end will be a good base to work with. Does anyone else have a opinion on this or disagreed...

 

[92GMCK2500]

Forgot to add. Transmissions. The existing tranny is a 700R4 aka 4L60 with approx. 235kms on it. Given the purpose and the weight I will be tugging around (described in original post). What would everyone recommend? rebuild the existing one and make some upgrades (gears, trans cooler etc?) OR replace with new? If new is the better option, can something like a 4L80E be dropped into a truck like mine?? hell is electronic even a option for me given the existing tranny is not Elec.? Again, the aim of the game is long lasting and strong. Cheers.

 

[Chewy1576]

A 14 bolt semi float axle is plenty strong for the power numbers you are looking for, and with 4.10 gears it’s going to be a towing beast. You’re definitely going to want a transmission with OD though for when you’re unloaded. A 700R4 can be built up pretty strong, and if you’re thinking a rebuild anyway it’s a great time to upgrade internals. Or if you want to try to tackle the electrical side a 4L80E would be awesome too.


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[Keepinitoldskool]

I would do a solid rebuild on the 700r4. Updated (beast) sunshell, hd clutches, corvette servos and solenoids, and i good 2200 stall converter. Along with a large tranny cooler and itll do the job fine with those 4.10s.

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[Chewy1576]

Yes transmission cooler!!! I don’t think I’ll own another truck/SUV without putting a bigger cooler in. It’s saved my Trailblazer just with larger than stock tires.


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[df2x4]

I see people all over the place saying that a 700R4/4L60E can be built to withstand significant power levels... But in my experience that has not been the case. My V6 truck has killed two of them. One of which had a beast sunshell, billet servos, upgraded frictions and a large aux cooler, among other things.

Personally I would not invest any money into a 700R4/4L60E, especially to put behind a 383. If you want to keep an auto, I'd look into a 4L80E swap. That's what I'm doing at the moment.

 

[RedLeader289]

To answer your question - stick your head under the rear bumper and count the bolts on the diff cover, if you count 14 then you have a 14-bolt.

With the transmission it all depends on how you drive. If you're mashing the gas and leaving 11's at every stoplight then yes, you will tear a 700R4 up fairly quickly. However, if you're driving it like a 3/4 ton truck (i.e. with some modicum of restraint) then a rebuilt 700R4 will work just fine. Either way you will want a cooler if it doesn't already have one.

It's all about what you want to do with it.

 

[likestrucks]

Im not sure what your budget is, but with the HT383E being about $5k, and most of these blue print engines being above $4k, I would consider a new GM Vortec 4 bolt crate engine. Part number 12530283. It can be picked up for around $2000. These vortec 350's made decent power and are super reliable and come with a good warranty. Another thing to keep in mind is the power rating. When these built crate engines such as the ones from blueprint are dyno'd they are usually giving the gross power ratings(no accessories, no exhaust system) where as the Vortec crate being rated at 255HP and 335 Ft-lb is a net rating(full accessories, drive belts, and full exhaust). If you were to throw one of those engines on a dyno and record gross ratings the HP would be close to 300HP. So you have to ask if spending double is worth an extra 30ish horsepower. If you want to spend over $4k, i am willing to bet this crate for $2K, plus a Weiand 142 for $2k would outpower the blueprint 383.