Advice Needed: New Crate Engine Options for 1992 K2500?

[92GMCK2500]

Hi All,
New on here but wanted to get some good quality advice on 'what path to go down' regarding dropping a new engine into my old 1992 GMC K2500. Its been in the family since new and has sentimental value. The truck has 410kms on the body (SLE, Extd cab, long box), about 275kms+ on the current engine (stock 5.7L/350 TBI) and about 235km+ on the trans (not sure what type/model).

I'd say the engine is on its last legs, i.e. its knocking (very bad and has been for years), exhaust leaks all over, lost compression, oil leaks everywhere and occasionally overheats under loads etc etc. Transmission seems what you would expect for its age but its not great. To note; we use this truck as our camper rig, we have 9.5ft Kodiak camper that we use on a regular basis, weighs around 3000lbs fully loaded, and usually we travel up to 500-1000kms per trip which is a mixture of highway driving (mountain passes) and forestry service roads (rough). Would like to travel further but scared of breaking down too far from home! haha.

Given that this truck will be a full time camper rig and the occasional work-horse around town vehicle, I would like to have a strong and reliable setup that has excellent mid-range torque and responsiveness under load (I would like to accelerate up hills fully loaded no problem). NOT looking for top end power or a hot rod 4x4 machine.

Questions:
- What crate engine would you recommend? is a standard 350 TBI replacement going to suffice? Or, will a new 350 TBI with modifications meet the above specs? Or, is something like a HT383 a better option?

- I'd say all of the engine components are well aged and will need replacing also, whats needed with a new crate engine replacement? I imagine its a long list but I've got not idea about this.
I am not shy of replacing radiators, water/fuel pumps, exhaust/headers, or anything else that is needed.

- Would I be wise to do a full powertrain replacement at the same time? (I think yes...). Transmission recommendations?

Lets get the ball rolling with that for now. As mentioned, I know its an old truck, but I love it and dropping a brand new engine/trans and what ever else in her is still a lot cheaper than a truck with 100kms+ on it. I would like to keep the overall costs around $10-15K, realize this is one hell of a project but its on my life's wish list to do!

Appreciate the help! Cheers!

 

[RedLeader289]

If you're just using it as described even replacing it with a "stock" crate engine such as this one would be an improvement over what came in it.

http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/small-block-350-290-hp

I don't see a situation where the 383 would be any more than overkill if the stock powertrain did the job for the past 25 years. For the transmission i'd do the same, either a rebuild on the current 700R4 or a simple replacement.

Sounds like the truck has had an awesome life, and it looks like it's got plenty more stories left to make!

 

[Chewy1576]

Blueprint Engines makes a drop-in TBI replacement 383 crate engine - https://blueprintengines.com/products/gm383-base-truck. Comes with a chip to get the most out of it.

 

[92GMCK2500]

If you're just using it as described even replacing it with a "stock" crate engine such as this one would be an improvement over what came in it.

http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/small-block-350-290-hp

I don't see a situation where the 383 would be any more than overkill if the stock powertrain did the job for the past 25 years. For the transmission i'd do the same, either a rebuild on the current 700R4 or a simple replacement.

Sounds like the truck has had an awesome life, and it looks like it's got plenty more stories left to make!

Thanks Red! Yes, I've look at that engine and its higher up my list of sensibility and cost effectiveness. The 383 is more on my 'the ultimate' side haha, but I don't want to regret going for the stock (smaller engine) later on. I am thinking we might possibly be pulling a boat behind the truck and camper one day! I am thinking I will bite the bullet and do a new tranny at the same time either way! The truck has had a awesome life!!! thanks.

Blueprint Engines makes a drop-in TBI replacement 383 crate engine - https://blueprintengines.com/products/gm383-base-truck. Comes with a chip to get the most out of it.

Whats the deal with these blueprint engines, where are they made and do they have a good reputation in North America? i.e. do they last the distance? I've heard chipping with a custom tune is the way to go and definitely gets the most out of the engine and all the costs that went into it.

Is purchasing a crate engine straight from Chev / GM recommended or is a third party supplier like Summit, Jegs and Blueprint all good too? any difference?

Does anyone have recommendations regarding the stock rear diff on my truck? If I go with a 383 that is putting out say 400ft lbs TQ, will the stock diff be able to handle the extra torque?? or will it explode into a million pieces when I put my foot into??! ha.

 

[RedLeader289]

I imagine the stock rear would be fine, 14 bolt right? I'd consider putting 4.10 gears in it if it doesn't already have them (makes tugging things a little easier).

 

[Chewy1576]

Blueprint has a good reputation for engine building. I bought this exact engine through Summit and have put about 8k miles on it in my K2500 and it runs very strong. I use the truck to pull a 27’ travel trailer and it has plenty of power. I agree with 4.10 gears too. I swapped in a 14 bolt full float axle with 4.10s earlier this year and it made a big difference over the stock 3.42’s.


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[biggbiker]

I would not put a carburated engine in it. I have 3,73 gears in my 96 1500 P/U and 3.42 in my Yukon. Big difference. 4.10s are better suited to taller tires. I had a t bucket w 4.56 gears and 30 in tall tires and @ 55 MPH it was around 3500 rpm w/o OD.

 

[92GMCK2500]

I imagine the stock rear would be fine, 14 bolt right? I'd consider putting 4.10 gears in it if it doesn't already have them (makes tugging things a little easier).

Good to know. I am new at this game, how do I tell if my truck has a 14 bolt rear diff or not? I guess poking my head under and taking a look at the casing will tell me?

Blueprint has a good reputation for engine building. I bought this exact engine through Summit and have put about 8k miles on it in my K2500 and it runs very strong. I use the truck to pull a 27’ travel trailer and it has plenty of power. I agree with 4.10 gears too. I swapped in a 14 bolt full float axle with 4.10s earlier this year and it made a big difference over the stock 3.42’s.

Also good to know, depending on my current axle/diff I shall look into upgrading this as well, "goes and adds it to the list". I would rather invest now and have a strong truck that lasts.

I would not put a carburated engine in it. I have 3,73 gears in my 96 1500 P/U and 3.42 in my Yukon. Big difference. 4.10s are better suited to taller tires. I had a t bucket w 4.56 gears and 30 in tall tires and @ 55 MPH it was around 3500 rpm w/o OD.

Thanks Biker. Can you elaborate on your views of not going carburated? Mainly I am interested in the 'straight forward-ness' of it and cost of course. I will (unfortunately) be paying for labor as well, darn.[/QUOTE]

 

[Chewy1576]

Parts trucks may not be very plentiful where you're at, but I snagged both the front diff and rear axle out of another truck for my gear change. $250 for both, as opposed to just changing gears out that would have been a lot more expensive. Although, I have already had to replace 2 axle seals, something I should have checked before putting the new hardware in the truck.

 

[Biggershaft96]

hell if you can afford to, why wouldnt you go with the ht383 or similar.