A/C Condenser Fan/Wiring Issue, and a TPS Question...

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MouthForWar

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Fair enough. Our water isn't too bad here, but I'll keep an eye on it until this radiator gets replaced, if/when that occurs. As I hear even relatively hard water isn't as much if an issue with newer radiators and hoses, as well as newer coolant formulas.

Side note: I keep hearing things about Redline Water Wetter (?). What's everyone's thoughts on that?
 

77Impala

The Hauler
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Redline Water Wetter (?). What's everyone's thoughts on that?

Never used it. Did look into it once a few years ago and if you run only water it claims to have the highest benefit about 20 some degrees if I remember correctly. I run 50/50 and it claimed to only drop it about 3 more degrees, was not enough for me to try it.

I learned a long time ago not to trust just what the product claims without real world test and not TV infomercials either.
 

chipskittles

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Just throwing this out there but the factory radiator fan switch for the condenser fan wasn't set to come on until around 225F. Not very useful for engine cooling. That fan was only intended to support the a/c system by lowering high side pressure when the system was run in extreme situations. If you don't believe me its purpose is fully documented in the factory service manual.

In addition, puller fans are so much better at airflow through radiators than pusher fans are; the reason why most vehicles don't have pusher fans to begin with. I suspect GM only put this fan in cases where a/c system performance became a concern due to higher engine bay temperatures, ie. big block, and only used the pusher fan because there was already an engine driven puller fan in the way of an additional electric one.

My money is on your radiator being plugged, or fan clutch not being as good as you think it is. I wouldn't be surprised if you had both bad. These trucks are not spring chickens.
 
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Well that's interesting. I definitely don't have that...I have an underhood light, but its mounted to the actual underside of the hood (looks stock to me), and there's nothing where yours is. My buddy has a 'Burban a couple years newer and his is in the same spot as mine. Does your truck have two engine bay lights then, or no? His Suburban doesn't. So idk. I have those wires though. lol.

The adventures of old trucks....
That light on the fender well is a retractable light, my '88 has one but my '95 does not.
 

snipersm7

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Take the 180 thermo out and put the 195 stock temp back in... the extra load is the a/c at idle. The motor temp hits 180 and opens the thermostat letting the cooler coolant back to the motor and the hotter into the radiator to cool off. With a 180 thermostat it doesnt have time to cool back off in the radiator. So the coolant going back into the motor that is suppose to be cooler is in fact heating up and staying hotter each cycle.. after the coolant gets to 180 on both sides of the thermostat it just stays open.. no time for cooling going on, just keeps getting hotter and hotter.... then bam.... overheating...



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Interesting. I have a 3 core aluminum radiator with two 14" cooling fans. My temp stays at about 190 in the summer unless I am idling or going 10 mph, then it heats up to 210-220. I have 1 a 180 degree thermostat. After reading your post it sounds like a have the same problem
 
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