99 escalade won't start, replaced crank sensor

[rlrudnik]

So the other night my gf was driving and the escalade shut off on her, I got there and wouldn't start, pulled the code and had a the p1345 and scanner said crank sensor. I replaced the sensor this morning and still won't start but doesn't sound as bad as before. I know you're supposed to do the crank relearn procedure but that requires it to actually start..

I know it could also be the distributor or the cam sensor, but not trying to keep throwing parts at it hoping to get lucky. Sounds like it's still out of time trying to start, just don't see how it just randomly happened. Engine has 35k on it, was put in at the dealer like 4 years ago.

Am I missing somethin here or should I go to the next sensor




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[east302]

Was the code there before all of this happened?

The VCM is looking to see if the cam and crank position sensors are in sync. If they’re not, it will throw the P1345 code.

You usually see it when the CMP offset isn’t set after a distributor install. Search for ‘CMP Retard’ for options ($) on that if you don’t have a scanner that will read it.

Do you have good spark on all eight?

Since you cannot start it, checking the CMP offset now won’t do any good, but looking at the distributor may be in order. Could be a loose cam sensor, rotor or worn out gear. If you pull the distributor, you’ll need to set the CMP offset to avoid having the P1345 code thrown.

 

[rlrudnik]

She said the engine light was on.. Not sure how long, I don't drive it.. Happened Friday night and I went back to work Saturday morning so haven't had a ton of time to work on it. Was raining today but I figured crank sensor was easy swap if it worked and got it running, which it didn't.

I have a parts car in my field, so I'll pull the distributer out of it and give it a try. Hopefully at least get it running to be able to set the timing, did some reading and saw I can order a Bluetooth adapter and an app on my phone to read the timing.

She goes back to work in a day or two so gotta get somethin figured out with it. Sure miss the old days of just being able to use a timing light


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[454cid]

You won't be setting the timing, just the off set between the cam and crank sensors. The PCM handles the timing.

If the distributor doesn't easily move by hand, I doubt it moved. The CMP retard has to be way off before it even throws a code. It can be out of spec and still run fine. Maybe pull the cap and rotor before pulling the whole distributor. Those can go bad, and not last long on these distributors if you don't get a good one, like an AC Delco, or Delphi. Also check to see how far the distributor shaft turns when installed... that could indicate a worn gear, I've read.

 

[rlrudnik]

Ok I'll pull the cap in the morning. Thought I replaced the cap and rotor a few years ago, but can't remember at this point. Distributer is still firmly clamped in place so it hasn't moved.

So even if the offset is off and not right where it should be it should still at least start right?


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[east302]

So even if the offset is off and not right where it should be it should still at least start right?


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Yes, assuming nothing is damaged it should still start. I think it doesn’t throw a code until it’s out by 14-degrees but 20 comes to mind as well.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Have you changed the distributor cap and rotor? If the rotor is bad it ain't gonna start. Ask me how l know; my 99 vortec 5.7 suburban pulled that last year. The GM electronic ignition rotors are real sensitive to any weak areas in the plastic. I've replaced them many times going back to square body trucks and some didn't even look bad. Also if you let the cap and rotor go really toast it will cook your ignition module.... Hope this helps

 

[Awest623]

As everyone else said: cap, button, gear. One of those most likely failed. Most common cap failure will be worn contacts, creates too big of a gap for the electricity to jump. Most common button failures will also be contacts, I've had the center contact completely blow off one before. The distributor gear itself can also fail, resulting in the distributor not turning with the cam, that'll cause erratic spark or even no spark at all. I've attached pictures of a failed button and a failed gear that I've pulled out of my truck. The engine only has about 20k on it... The failed button was new, but not quality. Always buy AC Delco or better.

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[rlrudnik]

Well the rotor didn't look great so I changed it, but in the process I was seeing how much play there was in the gear and it turned enough that i think it jumped a gear. And is Def off when I turned the key. So I'm thinking it just needs a new distributor at this point


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[Schurkey]

So the other night my gf was driving and the escalade shut off on her, I got there and wouldn't start, pulled the code and had a the p1345 and scanner said crank sensor. I replaced the sensor this morning and still won't start but doesn't sound as bad as before. I know you're supposed to do the crank relearn procedure but that requires it to actually start..

I know it could also be the distributor or the cam sensor, but not trying to keep throwing parts at it hoping to get lucky. Sounds like it's still out of time trying to start, just don't see how it just randomly happened. Engine has 35k on it, was put in at the dealer like 4 years ago.

Am I missing somethin here or should I go to the next sensor

WHAT ENGINE?

What do you mean by "scanner said crank sensor"?

Did you ever check the plugs to see if they were now fuel-fouled from excess cranking?

Well the rotor didn't look great so I changed it, but in the process I was seeing how much play there was in the gear and it turned enough that i think it jumped a gear. And is Def off when I turned the key. So I'm thinking it just needs a new distributor at this point

Be sure to check the cam gear while it's out. If the distributor gear is worn, the cam gear it mates with could be damaged, too.