98 K1500 - airbag light, climate control module, DRL, other elec probs

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So I have a 1998 K1500 Z71 ext cab short bed 4x4 with 5.7L vortec.

First problem - Air bag light comes on intermittently (not wildly blinking or anything just doesnt come on right away but when on stays on for a while, sometimes turns back off, but not like a flickering issue or anything like that):
Code that i was able to get through friend's fancy schmancy Snap-On diagnostic scanner was "B1071 | Internal Sensing And Diagnostic Module Problem" and what I read on another site was that there is a module under the drivers seat that can fail where that would cause it, but that was only for cases where it was on all the time and not blinking. It basically is on all the time, just not when I start up and for a little while after i start up, is there like a self timer in the computer that waits a little bit before it does this "internal sensing" self check and thats why it takes a minute?
Also read that part has to be exact same part number as original if I replace it from one at junk yard. If someone has more info on the part, cheap places to buy it (besides salvage yards), the code the reader came up with, I'd really appreciate the help.



2nd problem - Climate Control airflow issue:
So to start off, i know this truck is capable of putting out hot heat and cold a/c - so dont say that maybe the heater core/related or AC/related are the problem.
I have replaced the climate control module (the device that has the temp, blower level, vent function/selection dials on it *without rear defrost*, below the stereo) with OEM AC delco unit that I got for very affordable price off amazon - still in ac delco box - since I paid chevy dealer (first mistake) to diagnose the issue with the old unit and they said there was an internal short which I believed because a bunch of the lights were out in it and the air movement didnt feel like how it should be. Even though it was replaced, the air flow still didnt feel like it changed, however the lights in the module were working *more* how they were supposed to except the AC and Recirculate orange lights seemed like they were on all the time I think whether head lights were on or off (and ac still worked how it was suppose to).
The problem I'm having is that I feel like the flow is severely restricted because at full blast, theres almost no airflow or at least not as much as I would imagine a truck would have, through the outer vents closest to door windows (the ones you can move, not the ones built into doors) when on the face setting. The blower resistor isnt bad (or at least I dont think it is) because air flow changes with each step of the dial and blower gets louder with each step of the dial.

I think the problem is with the blending because regardless of what function i have the vents set to, there is always air coming out at the windshield. However, when I change between face and feet and defog, you can feel the flow stopping at one and changing to the selected (not terribly quick) with the exception of the windshield. (I'll have to double check but I think the feet one might stay on a little bit too regardless of what function is selected).
I've read that there can be issues with electronic air handlers or doors or flaps or whatever they're called that direct the air flow based on the function selected, but you can still feel a change when the function is changed so I'm not 100% sure.

Dealer is trying to say that the climate control module needed to be "reprogrammed" and I've read in some places that there is nothing to program on them, that especially because it is an AC delco replacement it should have been preprogrammed if anything. Also, they want to charge me diagnostic fee again if this "reprogramming" doesnt work, which is dumb because they should have fully diagnosed the problem before instead of just stopping at the first problem they encounter....anyways, thats the problem with the climate stuff.



Third Problem - DRL (daytime running lights):
Regardless of the amount of ambient light, whenever I have the headlights switched off, it always says that it recommends headlights to be on (the little green headlight dash light) and the actual headlights will stay on. I currently have HID's, but this was doing this problem way before I did the HID mod.

Also, possibly related, when i had the door ajar sensor on the driver side still connected, it would always buzz the alarm like when you have the headlights on with the car off and you open the driver door - but it does it when the keys would be in the on position as well. It got so annoying that I unplugged the door ajar sensor (and broke it *sigh*). This also did this before I installed HID's, so HID's should not be the cause for any of this.

Also, possibly related, the cargo lights in back dont turn on when i press the override dome and the cargo light button. I have to do a combo of override button, turn the dimmer all the way up past 2 notches, and hit the cargo button......I figured it was just the head light switch.


4th problem - Reverse lights not working:
Like other 90's chevy's, I assumed this was because of reverse switch on transmission. Haven't had time to replace it, just wanted to ask to see if there was possibly any other causes. Reverse bulbs tested good, rest of lights work so dont think its a wiring issue.

Let me know, very much appreciated!!!!!
 

df2x4

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So I have a 1998 K1500 Z71 ext cab short bed 4x4 with 5.7L vortec.

First problem - Air bag light comes on intermittently (not wildly blinking or anything just doesnt come on right away but when on stays on for a while, sometimes turns back off, but not like a flickering issue or anything like that):
Code that i was able to get through friend's fancy schmancy Snap-On diagnostic scanner was "B1071 | Internal Sensing And Diagnostic Module Problem" and what I read on another site was that there is a module under the drivers seat that can fail where that would cause it, but that was only for cases where it was on all the time and not blinking. It basically is on all the time, just not when I start up and for a little while after i start up, is there like a self timer in the computer that waits a little bit before it does this "internal sensing" self check and thats why it takes a minute?
Also read that part has to be exact same part number as original if I replace it from one at junk yard. If someone has more info on the part, cheap places to buy it (besides salvage yards), the code the reader came up with, I'd really appreciate the help.

Yeah, this is not normal. SRS is nothing to f*ck with, you don't want that crap going off while you're working on it. If I were you I'd just pay someone to fix this, airbag systems freak me out.

2nd problem - Climate Control airflow issue:
So to start off, i know this truck is capable of putting out hot heat and cold a/c - so dont say that maybe the heater core/related or AC/related are the problem.
I have replaced the climate control module (the device that has the temp, blower level, vent function/selection dials on it *without rear defrost*, below the stereo) with OEM AC delco unit that I got for very affordable price off amazon - still in ac delco box - since I paid chevy dealer (first mistake) to diagnose the issue with the old unit and they said there was an internal short which I believed because a bunch of the lights were out in it and the air movement didnt feel like how it should be. Even though it was replaced, the air flow still didnt feel like it changed, however the lights in the module were working *more* how they were supposed to except the AC and Recirculate orange lights seemed like they were on all the time I think whether head lights were on or off (and ac still worked how it was suppose to).
The problem I'm having is that I feel like the flow is severely restricted because at full blast, theres almost no airflow or at least not as much as I would imagine a truck would have, through the outer vents closest to door windows (the ones you can move, not the ones built into doors) when on the face setting. The blower resistor isnt bad (or at least I dont think it is) because air flow changes with each step of the dial and blower gets louder with each step of the dial.

I think the problem is with the blending because regardless of what function i have the vents set to, there is always air coming out at the windshield. However, when I change between face and feet and defog, you can feel the flow stopping at one and changing to the selected (not terribly quick) with the exception of the windshield. (I'll have to double check but I think the feet one might stay on a little bit too regardless of what function is selected).
I've read that there can be issues with electronic air handlers or doors or flaps or whatever they're called that direct the air flow based on the function selected, but you can still feel a change when the function is changed so I'm not 100% sure.

Dealer is trying to say that the climate control module needed to be "reprogrammed" and I've read in some places that there is nothing to program on them, that especially because it is an AC delco replacement it should have been preprogrammed if anything. Also, they want to charge me diagnostic fee again if this "reprogramming" doesnt work, which is dumb because they should have fully diagnosed the problem before instead of just stopping at the first problem they encounter....anyways, thats the problem with the climate stuff.

There is nothing to program on these, don't let them get you on that. 99% sure your issue is the defroster blend door, or the actuators. My red truck is doing this right now as well, getting it fixed next month. I don't want to pull the dash if that's what's necessary, so I'm paying a shop to do it.

Third Problem - DRL (daytime running lights):
Regardless of the amount of ambient light, whenever I have the headlights switched off, it always says that it recommends headlights to be on (the little green headlight dash light) and the actual headlights will stay on. I currently have HID's, but this was doing this problem way before I did the HID mod.

Also, possibly related, when i had the door ajar sensor on the driver side still connected, it would always buzz the alarm like when you have the headlights on with the car off and you open the driver door - but it does it when the keys would be in the on position as well. It got so annoying that I unplugged the door ajar sensor (and broke it *sigh*). This also did this before I installed HID's, so HID's should not be the cause for any of this.

Also, possibly related, the cargo lights in back dont turn on when i press the override dome and the cargo light button. I have to do a combo of override button, turn the dimmer all the way up past 2 notches, and hit the cargo button......I figured it was just the head light switch.

DRLs are just that, DRLs. They're always on, regardless of ambient light or whatever. The green light on your cluster will always be on when the headlights are switched off, and your headlights will always run unless you disable the DRLs. This is how they came from the factory. Not sure what problem you're even trying to describe with the door switches either, they're supposed to buzz when you open the door with the key in the ignition...

Not sure what's up with your rear cargo light not working. Captain obvious here, but have you checked the bulb?

4th problem - Reverse lights not working:
Like other 90's chevy's, I assumed this was because of reverse switch on transmission. Haven't had time to replace it, just wanted to ask to see if there was possibly any other causes. Reverse bulbs tested good, rest of lights work so dont think its a wiring issue.

Neutral safety switch maybe?

Sounds like you're trying really hard to solve at least a couple "problems" that were actually designed to function that way.
 
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Yeah, this is not normal. SRS is nothing to f*ck with, you don't want that crap going off while you're working on it. If I were you I'd just pay someone to fix this, airbag systems freak me out.

Unfortunately I dont have the money to throw at this to take to a shop, even if it was an emergency. I'm going to at least pull the seat and look at part number and just try swapping the same part # module out and see if that fixes it (if i can get it for cheap enough).



There is nothing to program on these, don't let them get you on that. 99% sure your issue is the defroster blend door, or the actuators. My red truck is doing this right now as well, getting it fixed next month. I don't want to pull the dash if that's what's necessary, so I'm paying a shop to do it.

Thats what I thought, fricken rip off a$$hats.
Let me know what price they quote you if you dont mind. I also read about something where you unplug the fuses for the blend door actuators for a certain amount of time and plug them back in and that resets them or something.
This one I'm probably going to take to a dealer if I can convince them that they should have diagnosed this instead of just quitting when they found the module had a short.
I would imagine you should be able to access all doors except for defog - from below the dash/footwell area...maybe you can access the defog blend door actuator from the gauge cluster or stereo/climate control module areas.



DRLs are just that, DRLs. They're always on, regardless of ambient light or whatever. The green light on your cluster will always be on when the headlights are switched off, and your headlights will always run unless you disable the DRLs. This is how they came from the factory. Not sure what problem you're even trying to describe with the door switches either, they're supposed to buzz when you open the door with the key in the ignition...

Well thats a stupid design, I would like the option to shut my head lights off.
As far as the buzzer, it shouldnt be a constant buzz anytime you have the door open with the key forward, it should pulse. It should only buzz constant whenever you open the doors with head lights on and key off/out. (this is where I thought the DRL was an issue, but technically since you say the headlights should be on all the time when key is on it should buzz constant UNLESS you're in park, right?) My problem that I just remembered was that regardless of the key or headlights being on or off, the buzzer would constantly go off anytime the driver door was open/ajar. Maybe its going off because the truck doesnt know its in park for the running lights circuit (partially similar to reverse switch with reverse lights issue I'm having)?
Hope that makes sense.


Not sure what's up with your rear cargo light not working. Captain obvious here, but have you checked the bulb?

Yes Captain Obvious, I checked the bulb haha. The problem also is not the bulb because they physically will light up, the problem is they should just light up when I hit the Cargo button - not when i do that weird configuration of messing with dimmer switch and override button, etc.



Neutral safety switch maybe?

Whatever the switch is called on the trans that knows when you have it in reverse. I thought with automatics of this era they usually had both a reverse switch and a neutral/park switch?



Sounds like you're trying really hard to solve at least a couple "problems" that were actually designed to function that way.

Maybe just the DRL thing, but everything else is a legit issue.
 

east302

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I would like the option to shut my head lights off.

Sorry, only the next generation (99+) offered that feature.

As far as the buzzer, it shouldnt be a constant buzz anytime you have the door open with the key forward, it should pulse. It should only buzz constant whenever you open the doors with head lights on and key off/out. (this is where I thought the DRL was an issue, but technically since you say the headlights should be on all the time when key is on it should buzz constant UNLESS you're in park, right?) My problem that I just remembered was that regardless of the key or headlights being on or off, the buzzer would constantly go off anytime the driver door was open/ajar. Maybe its going off because the truck doesnt know its in park for the running lights circuit (partially similar to reverse switch with reverse lights issue I'm having)?
Hope that makes sense.

It sounds as though the buzzer is functioning correctly. It doesn't pulse, it's a constant sound. Mine (1998) sounds whenever the door is open with the key in any position whether in drive or in park. It sounds when the headlights are on and the door is open.

You can access the hvac box damper actuator underneath. I'd take a look at it and see if any of the springs or linkages have come apart. Granted, you would think that the dealer's inspection would have included that. There is a dial on the actuator. You can watch it turn based on the airflow setting.

You mentioned the orange lights on the recirculation and a/c buttons. Those are always lit when those buttons are actuated, regardless of headlight operation.

Your cargo light does sound a bit off. Mine turns on or off using the dash switch with the vehicle in park, running or not. The "dome overide" button doesn't affect mine, and I don't have to fool with the dimmer wheel, either.
 
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Sorry not pulse, I meant to say it goes off for a specified amount of time then shuts off.

It really is supposed to buzz constant when you have the truck running in park and you have the door open?

Maybe it is just that way, if thats the case its the most annoying setup ever hahaha I was so mad from the buzzing that I unplugged the door ajar sensor haha.

You mentioned the orange lights on the recirculation and a/c buttons. Those are always lit when those buttons are actuated, regardless of headlight operation.

What about when you dont have those two buttons actuated, with the lights on?
They definitely turn on when I press the buttons, but it looks like they're partially on when not actuated with headlights on.....might just be a reflection from runninglight in module at night.
 

east302

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Yes, if you have the truck running in park (or drive, actually) and open the door, the buzzer will sound until the key is removed. Yep, it's annoying.

If the a/c and recirc buttons are not pushed in, the indicator lamps are off. You're probably right about the dim reflection when they're off, mine does that, too.

I meant to add, here is the diagnostics info for inoperative reverse lights. There's not a lot that it could be, but the easiest check would be a ground near the trailer wiring harness (see diagram for location, ground #401).

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Circuit Operation

When the Ignition Switch is in RUN, voltage is applied through the TURN B/U Fuse to the Backup Lamp Switch. With the Transaxle in REVERSE, voltage is applied to the LH and RH Backup Lamps, which are permanently grounded. When voltage is applied to LT GRN (24), the Backup Lamps are on. LT ORN (24) also supplies input to the Electrochromatic Rearview Mirror Dimming function. Connection is also provided for the Trailer-Tow capability.


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df2x4

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Well thats a stupid design, I would like the option to shut my head lights off.
As far as the buzzer, it shouldnt be a constant buzz anytime you have the door open with the key forward, it should pulse. It should only buzz constant whenever you open the doors with head lights on and key off/out. (this is where I thought the DRL was an issue, but technically since you say the headlights should be on all the time when key is on it should buzz constant UNLESS you're in park, right?) My problem that I just remembered was that regardless of the key or headlights being on or off, the buzzer would constantly go off anytime the driver door was open/ajar. Maybe its going off because the truck doesnt know its in park for the running lights circuit (partially similar to reverse switch with reverse lights issue I'm having)?
Hope that makes sense.

The buzzer will go off (long constant buzz, there is no variation or pulse on these trucks) any time the front door is open and the key is in the ignition, regardless of lights or gear. Engine doesn't even have to be running. Shut it off and pop the key out one click, and it will stop buzzing as long as the lights are off.

Yes Captain Obvious, I checked the bulb haha. The problem also is not the bulb because they physically will light up, the problem is they should just light up when I hit the Cargo button - not when i do that weird configuration of messing with dimmer switch and override button, etc.

Just remembered actually, this is the way they function from the factory as well. If I recall correctly... If the interior lights aren't on, the cargo lights won't turn on via the switch. At least when the key is off. Not sure why they designed it this way but my red truck operates in the same manner. Turn on the interior lights and it should work fine. Not sure if the cargo lights will illuminate in any gear other than park, never tried that. I'd imagine there might be a safety feature to prevent that so you're not accidentally blinding drivers behind you. Might go play with mine in a little bit, you've got me curious now.
 
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