93 K2500 Suburban 454 Holley Sniper Upgrade

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CrustyJunker

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I think that's the way I did mine, and had extra space. Deep well socket, swivel, extension, extension 2, and 3/8” air ratchet. Couldn't really see what I was doing, but I could feel.

My transmission was super oily/dirty even after I pressure washed everything. I managed to clean it up great with my forearms, then collect the rest of the fallen dirt with my eyelids. Good times.
 

Schurkey

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I think that's the way I did mine, and had extra space. Deep well socket, swivel, extension, extension 2, and 3/8” air ratchet. Couldn't really see what I was doing, but I could feel.
A single 1/2" extension works WAY better than multiple extensions stuck together. The 3/8 male end saves another joint, (no separate adapter) and using a swivel socket saves the joint between the U-joint and the socket.

I also use an impact wrench rather than an air ratchet--but that's of little consequence.

My transmission was super oily/dirty even after I pressure washed everything. I managed to clean it up great with my forearms, then collect the rest of the fallen dirt with my eyelids. Good times.
That sounds about right, except that the eyelids typically only catch about 95%; the rest washes into the corners of your eyes by the next morning.
 

LC2NLS6

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I can get the top ones out easy, I had to loosen them to get the manifold in back on stage I of the build, and didn't ramrod them back on.
 

LC2NLS6

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Got around to the easy part. She's out. had to drop the front driveshaft to get clearance to get the converter shield off as I couldn't loosen the support rods that attach the cover to the engine mounts. Didn't have to remove the hood either.

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LC2NLS6

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Machine shop called, said I bent the tiny factory pushrods. Crank is fine, doesn't need turning. Which makes sense, how could the non-adj rockers have a ton of travel on the base circle if I wiped it. Well, the 310,000 mile engine could use a rebuild anyways. Going with a 215ish at 050 roller cam, arp rod and head bolts, roller trunion rockers, new hardened pushrods, use peanut ports since it's just a truck and everything bolts right up where it should vs going raised port alum and that rabbit hole I'm all to familiar with.
 

Supercharged111

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How heavy of a valve spring were you running? I want to say mine is at least 135# on the seat and I'm still on stock pushrods, shame on me. My base circle is way smaller on this cam, without measuring I'm probably .050" short.
 

LC2NLS6

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I ran Comp 911 springs, they came with the flat tappet comp kit. Installed height was 1.950, 50 taller than spec, so seat pressure without measuring should have been a hair lighter comp says 104# at 1.950. Maybe 310,000 miles and me revving that **** out did it in on the first cam, hence why it sounded like it was wiped, heck, maybe they were bent pre-Holley install. I also only checked a few rods for bentness, and I just made it worse beating on it and breaking in 2 cams got it hot and bendy? Anyhoo, gettin' her rebuilt now.
 

LC2NLS6

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New pistons, shooting for 9.5 maybe 10 - 1 compression ratio. Full roller rockers - trunion and tip and short poly locks to clear stock valve covers. Hopefully makes 550 lbs-ft and 425+ hp at the crank at 3000-4000 rpm or so on pump 93. I'm hoping the 1yr old 1996 spec vortec delphi fuel pump can support that. I think its a 35 gph pump at 58 psi, not sure, if so, then not enough fuel pump- would explain the high fuel trims already experienced in learn mode. I need to plumb and monitor/log fuel pressure.
 
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