Sniper fuel line return

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LosDoritos

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You can probably increase your idle timing to 18,liven it up off the line a little. Add a couple deg. at cruise. WOT looks like a good starting point,you can bump that up 2 deg. at a time till you get knock then back it off 4 deg. Your starter will last longer if you back the crank timing down to 0
So I checked the wire for the knock sensor and it is not in the sniper so I’ll get that connected here soon but I was driving it at 18 degrees and noticed a difference but something still off so I pulled logs and the configuration and this is the timing table that the sniper made, now like I said I’ve never tuned before but from the research I’ve gathered over the past few weeks, this table is dead wrong, right? Shouldn't those reds be 18 and then the graph smoothen out in the 16, 18, and 25 boxes???
 

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Scooterwrench

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Looks like it's not advancing till it's turning 2250 in the lower MAP regions.
Should crank at 0 and immediately advance to 18 then gradually advance with the increase in RPM to your 36 at part throttle(low to mid MAP and TPS) It looks like the upper MAP region is pretty close.
Yeah,if the sniper has a knock input then hook up the sensor and if there is a setting for it make sure it's turned on. It may help the ECM self learn the timing curve and will also show knock in the datalog and allow you to trim spark advance in the areas where knock occurred.
 

tayto

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So I checked the wire for the knock sensor and it is not in the sniper so I’ll get that connected here soon but I was driving it at 18 degrees and noticed a difference but something still off so I pulled logs and the configuration and this is the timing table that the sniper made, now like I said I’ve never tuned before but from the research I’ve gathered over the past few weeks, this table is dead wrong, right? Shouldn't those reds be 18 and then the graph smoothen out in the 16, 18, and 25 boxes???
i bet it runs horrible with that timing map
 

LosDoritos

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i bet it runs horrible with that timing map
It doesI can’t snap WOT or itll backfire, sometimes it’ll catch itself others it’ll die, and even easing into it will not “drop a gear to disappear” should I make that red area higher timing in a smaller area, I feel like even when I got wide open I’m still on the top right edge of the 0 deg boxes
 

Scooterwrench

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So I checked the wire for the knock sensor and it is not in the sniper so I’ll get that connected here soon but I was driving it at 18 degrees and noticed a difference but something still off so I pulled logs and the configuration and this is the timing table that the sniper made, now like I said I’ve never tuned before but from the research I’ve gathered over the past few weeks, this table is dead wrong, right? Shouldn't those reds be 18 and then the graph smoothen out in the 16, 18, and 25 boxes???
I'm guessing this is the table from the setup wizard?
What you're trying to duplicate is the spark advance of a mechanical advance dist. with vacuum advance. When you crank the engine your timing will be at base. As soon as the engine fires the weights will sling out and give you your idle timing. When you step lightly on the throttle two things are going to happen,the weights will sling out more and vacuum will be applied to the vacuum advance and timing will increase even more till you reach the limit of the weights. That is you max timing. When you stomp the throttle vacuum will fall and the vacuum advance will retard the timing to prevent detonation during hard acceleration.
With your system your timing is controlled by RPM and MAP. Low MAP,low load.High MAP,high load. At closed throttle you will start out at 0 during crank,as soon as the engine fires your timing should rise to around 12-18deg.,your MAP will be low. As you gradually increase no load RPM your timing should increase to max at around 2500 RPM and stay there as long as there is no load on the engine. OK,now you have the truck in gear. If you gradually accelerate your timing is going to follow your no load curve and down the road you go. When you stomp it your timing is going to to retard it to keep it from ringing the rods.
Try this,set you low map curve to crank at 0,step up to 12-18 at idle then gradually increase to 36-38 at 2500 and hold there till you hit the rev limiter. Set you high MAP curve 8-10 deg. below your low MAP curve.
Launching from idle will drop the timing from 12-18 to 2-8 and stomping it at 2500+ will drop it from 36-38 to 26-30. Install that knock sensor so if this curve is too aggressive you can see where and dial it back or if no knock occurred you can dial it up until it does then take out 4deg.
Don't get in a hurry,you will not get it the first time but this curve should get you out of the driveway.
 

LosDoritos

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So I checked this video out
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and made a base table with my numbers, but idk how this looks and I don’t want it to be stupid and mess something up so here it is
 

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LosDoritos

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Not sure with that sniper,may not read the knock sensor, Did you wire it in?
and I did some digging on this and it turns out the sniper doesn’t have a knock input and/or can’t read it
 

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Scooterwrench

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So I checked this video out
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
and made a base table with my numbers, but idk how this looks and I don’t want it to be stupid and mess something up so here it is
Whoa! Don't run that! WAY too much advance. Go back and read post #27
Sucks about the lack of KS input. Just gonna have to keep your ears open for ping and back off the throttle when you hear it. Does the sniper allow you to mark a spot in your datalog?
 
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